vacuum brake conversion kit

[Pyro6]

Didn't you get a new vacuum block with an extra port for the brake booster. I get mine from Caspers if you didn't.

[Shimy87]

finished!!!   Ran straight vacuum from old PCV port to booster. Ran a different line from PCV and tee'd into line going to charcol canister. Works and looks good, pedal seems maybe a little soft at first, might have to bleed them again.
 
Thanks for all the help!!!

[Steve Wood]

Make sure the proportioning valve is brass and not iron

[Shimy87]

Didnt check that, its whatever GM put in. I'll look tonight. That link with "how to" didnt mention changing it out so I never looked at it.
 
Thanks

[Steve Wood]

Cars originally came with iron.  GM came out and advised a change to brass because the iron tended to corrode and not work properly.  I found an improvement when I changed them out.

[drew87gn]

Finally found sometime this weekend to do the brake conversion. Overall the project in my opinion wasn't that bad. The brakes work but I feel that the pedal's is soft. I need to press the pedal approx. 1/2 way down before the brakes start to grab. With that said I took the car out and overall the brakes work well.......Sho uld I be concerned with a soft pedal or is this a characteristic of the conversion. I bled the brakes well, also notice that when I step on the pedal that the brake fluid bleeds back into the master cylinder. Is this OK??
Thanks
 

[gnonyx]

Here is another couple of sites for the vacuum brake conversion:
 
http://www.tomsttype.com/html/vacuum_brake_install.html
 
http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=757283#Post757283

[Steve Wood]

I am probably long ago used to the pedal...I think it has more movement but should firm up pretty well. 

Altho I normally use either a vacuum pump or the injector type bleeder depending on which I find first, I often drive the car for a few days and then do a gravity bleed by opening all four bleeders and let them drip for awhile (thru a hose to a glass or jar).  Just be sure to watch the reservoir to not let it run low during the process

[Pyro6]

Sometimes air gets trapped in the front of the master cylinder sits it's tilted so much. You may have to tap it with a rubber mallet while you're bleeding it. When I did mine, it seemed the pedal was more solid with normal travel.

[Steve Wood]

getting the master well bled is 75% of the battle...I have pulled off the old and put the new master/booster on after a good bleeding and had good brakes even before bleeding at the wheels

[Pyro6]

I agree, Steve. But the other 25% possibility of air getting into the system after a successful bench bleed is: the last line connections at the master cylinder, accidental air getting in during normal bleeding, and prior air from before the conversion (and I'm sure numerous other reasons). If any of these happen, the air could find it's way to the high spot of the master cylinder.

[Steve Wood]

That is the reason that the injector should work well...persona lly, I have not seen much difference...a nd, I was not disagreeing with what you said

[Pyro6]

I wasn't figuring you were disagreeing, just adding another perspective. Not everybody has an injector. Even an injector has a difficult time getting the air trapped in an inclined master, rare as it is.

[I Love Factory ECMs]

There's aftermarket hydro boost electric motor brakes on the Web, I can't recall the place right now,but if didn't want vacume,an didn't want factoy failer again. there that last option
Enjoy!