possibly found the culprit

[Steve Wood]

Thanks, Dave!  Knew I could count on you!

that is what i would do Phil...in the long run you will be way ahead of the game...second link above

[daveismissing]

Looks like you have nothing to loose. Anything that doesn't melt the plastic is probably OK in this case- just wash it all off with alcohol as a last step. 1000 grit paper? contact burnishing tool?

[daveismissing]

And that is bad enough that you would need to gently bend the tang and pull each contact out individually and clean them just to see how corroded they are.

[TURBOPOWERED68]

i switched out both my plugs.
just take your time unpin one at a time inspect and clean then put back together.
like said already -- a soft, long bristle wire brush should do the trick on the ECM side.   

[phil_long]

Thanks a lot for the assistance.  1st step will be cleaning, and seeing how it goes from there.  And to be clear, the splice harness is meant to replace the old cable, meaning cut the old connector off and match the wires up and splice together correct?  Not a lot of room to work with there.  And, the first link provided, what's the difference in the two?  Is the first link JUST the connectors?  thanks again for the help

[phil_long]

Thanks a lot for the assistance.  1st step will be cleaning, and seeing how it goes from there.  And to be clear, the splice harness is meant to replace the old cable, meaning cut the old connector off and match the wires up and splice together correct?  Not a lot of room to work with there.  And, the first link provided, what's the difference in the two?  Is the first link JUST the connectors?  thanks again for the help

ok nevermind, one is just the the ends.  So, does the wires extend out any further from behind the glove box so i can have more room to work with?  Just wanna be clear. I suppose Steve suggested solder instead of butt connectors because soldering is more durable? thanks again

[SuperSix]

You could remove the seat to get more room to work.. If it comes to that.

[Steve Wood]

One has to wonder if one is able to get the corrosion off, will there be any pin left?

I guess it depends on what kind of butt connector you use.  I have seen far too many that don't make good contact all the time and/or eventually turn green under the crimps and go high resistance under load causing all kinds of intermittent problems at the wrong times.

Unless the joint is at a vibration zone, I prefer solder even tho it is pretty funny watching me trying to solder these days...one eye, no depth perception makes it a task trying to touch the solder to the heated spot.

You have a lot more experience doing such things than I do, Phil...choose your poison and get after it!  Take the seat out and lay in the floor

make sure that windshield and/or heaterbox leak has been sealed up so it does not get more water in there

[phil_long]

Damn Steve, that's a grand idea!!!  taking the seat out.  that job is going to take at LEAST a day at best(not the seat removal, but the soldering of the wires, I like to take my time); and, if i dont complete the task at hand, i can send my car to Texas so you could do it!!

[Steve Wood]

I put my soldering station to good use, but it sure takes me longer these days....not like the days when I could build a heathkit in a few days

[phil_long]

i realized that I have the ability to do everything to my car(seeing that I make connectors and build cables and blah blah blah) but i lack the confidence on working on my own equip.  At work, i can knock it out no matter what cabinet project they put in front of me, but the stuff at home? I always turn the other way.   

[Steve Wood]

you ain't the only one like that LOL

You are just normal

[motorhead]

There is the possibility that you could soak the wires in a solution that would remove the corrosion; and then apply compressed air plus significant drying time before reconnecting any power to the system.

Either way that is a mess...

[phil_long]

I guess normal is cool.

[phil_long]

There is the possibility that you could soak the wires in a solution that would remove the corrosion; and then apply compressed air plus significant drying time before reconnecting any power to the system.

Either way that is a mess...

My cousin Charles suggested the same thing.  Said he did it for his car.  Due to him not driving it right now, I'm not too sure how that worked out. But, it doesn't cost anything to try it so I suppose i can do that.