Poor mans suspension upgrade info.

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Do a search for that specific part number anywhere other than speedway. Speedway lists the parts in different ways than other sites David. I believe if you contact Jegs or one of the other speed shops they should be albe to look that number up.



You shouldn't have any problems if you don't use the bump steer correction kit. Everything else stays the same but using a 1" longer lower will drop the front of the car 1" rather than 1/2" in the front.

I tried an internet search and nothing.
i will eventually get the bump steer kit but not now.
i'll keep trying
Thanks
     

[Charlief1]

I know I got that part number from speedway but they may have changed the designation.   Now I'm going to have to look up a new number all over again.

[TURBOPOWERED68]

 

I know I got that part number from speedway but they may have changed the designation.   Now I'm going to have to look up a new number all over again.

yeaup 

[Charlief1]

And I'm still working one one for your cheby David.

[TURBOPOWERED68]

And I'm still working one one for your cheby David.

Cool
BUT please get the info for the G-Body as that is only one of two parts that i am missing to get the car on the road for the first time since I've owned it.
BWT Thanks for all of your help.     

[Charlief1]

You can get different length ball joint studs for the Howe ball joints David. Call speedway directly and see what they say. You could also call Jegs and Summit with the same question.

[TURBOPOWERED68]

You can get different length ball joint studs for the Howe ball joints David. Call speedway directly and see what they say. You could also call Jegs and Summit with the same question.

I called speedway today, The guy said that I have to call back in the AM to speak with a tech guy about this stuff.

[TURBOPOWERED68]

i just ordered this from Speedway
Lower ball joint
1/2 taller Stud 7219037
Housing 72110509
Tool 72191103
they did not have a 1" taller set up.
       

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Charlie -- Help me out here
I got these 910-31134-R upper control arms not so long ago
this is what Speedway says about them in their description
 

When using on a drag race or S-10 application, consider using RH arm for both sides as both will be 8" long; arm can just be flipped over for LH side (RH arm is 8").

You listed this one 91034394  = 8.5 long. 
The one you listed is closer to stock and will keep the wheel closer to stock location?,
the one i got will pull in the top of the wheel. Isn't this the same thing that you would be trying to do with the the taller BJs??
My understanding (remember i am an idiot) is that the Taller ball joints push UP the upper control arm getting it close/closer to LEVEL so that in a bump the upper control arm JUST pulls the top of the wheel in towards the car. Instead of first pushing the top of the wheel out to then pull it back in once it passes the level point?
Would this be accurate? >> The way i see a the upper CA in a stock suspension-- Below level its short and as it gets closer to level it gets longer and once it gets passed the level point on its way up it gets shorter again.   

SO if one is trying to eliminate the top of the wheel from being pushed out why would one use the longer upper control arm VS. the shorter upper control arm??     

i also get that the taller bottom BJ also helps lower the ride height. 

Disclaimer -- I am NOT trying to know better or more than you. I am JUST trying to learn and hopefully understand how this crap works by asking questions.
Remember i am the resident dummy.
Thanks Dude.             

[Charlief1]

The stock arm is 8.4" long and if you're doing drag only with stock joints then you'd be correct because the camber (amount the top of the wheels leans in or out) would move further in using an 8" arm. By using the taller ball joints this brings the length of the arm closer to stock so you can use stock alignment specs or reduce camber for better handing. Did that help David?

[TURBOPOWERED68]

The stock arm is 8.4" long and if you're doing drag only with stock joints then you'd be correct because the camber (amount the top of the wheels leans in or out) would move further in using an 8" arm. By using the taller ball joints this brings the length of the arm closer to stock so you can use stock alignment specs or reduce camber for better handing. Did that help David?

It helps a little
How do you think my set up (1/2 longer lower BJ and 8" arm) will work on the street?

[Charlief1]

Shouldn't be an issue David. Any improvement in steering geometry helps these cars since they were set up originally as a family car rather than a high performance one.

[TURBOPOWERED68]

What do you suggest for shocks?

For now i am going to stick with these worn to shit springs as the car sits perfect.
i hope that a GOOD shock can help me extend their life.

[Charlief1]

Bilstien (sp) will give the best ride overall David, unless you want to get some adjustable ones. Adjustable ones will give you the chance to talor the ride the way you want but they are more $.

[Charlief1]

Updated all the part numbers and info guys and gals. Jason (good2win22) has most of the parts on his car and it handles well but doesn't ride rough. Best description I can give is firm but smooth. I'll let Jason tell you how it feels to him if he posts here. There's a few other tricks in my bag and I'm working on the car again so I can hopefully get it together for the next Texas Buick Nations this spring.