Troubleshooting a miss, etc

[TurboCajun]

ok just finished changing the cam sensor cap and the ECM ( i didnt remember to check the the pinouts until i logged back on here) but the idle is worse and when i unplug the cam sensor the car shuts off

[Steve Wood]

lol..wrong direction of progress.

Maybe it is time to check the connector...  A11 is the wire that carries the cam signal to the ecm.  Make sure that pin is connected solidly to the wire and is inserting properly into the ecm

check the voltage on it as per  http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/ecmwiring.htm  also

[Steve Wood]

Also, go to the module connector and make sure all the pins are straight and inserting properly

[Steve Wood]

Is your module a factory unit, or one of the aftermarket replacements?

[TurboCajun]

11.26 v on A11 pin is locked in place

[Steve Wood]

I suspect that is a yellow wire and not black like that diagram shows, but, I am not sure...long as it is a11...

Now, if you bump the engine over, does the voltage drop low and then come back to a high voltage?

[TurboCajun]

do i check this with the ECM plugged in ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, module came from CASpers in 2009 when i converted from the 85 module

[Steve Wood]

unless failed, it should be good, then.

Yes, check with it plugged in...may be hard to see...best way would be to connect the meter and have someone watch it while you turn the crank with a socket/breaker bar...remember, depending on where the window in the sensor is, you may have to turn it over up to two times

[TurboCajun]

yes voltage drops and returns

[Steve Wood]

so that seems to me as if the cam sensor, the module, and the harness are working....

I have no clue why the change of ecm would make it even worse.

Is the cam sensor still clocked an 1/8" ccw from the setting position?  If so, try rotating it a 1/4" in the opposite direction, CW.

[TurboCajun]

the new cap is slotted, could i turn just the cap or do I need to turn the housing

[Steve Wood]

it is slotted?  never saw one that was slotted...that throws a variable into the equation...I guess it is slotted on both screws because you could not rotate it otherwise.

Do you still have the one I sent you?

Everything I read makes me think that the cam sensor needs to be moved a bit....but normally, you would rotate the housing.

We did check to make sure the wheel is still pinned into a fixed position so that it cannot rotate out of position, didn't we?

[Steve Wood]

If you have my cap, put it back on, hook up your meter, rotate the housing back clockwise a piece so you have high voltage, then rotate it back ccw until the voltage just falls..stop right there and tighten the housing clamp...in other words exactly as the book says.

If you don't, take the cap with the slots and rotate it back CW until the voltage rises, then reset CCW to exactly where the voltage falls....again, exactly as per the book

[ULYCYC]

After you get the cam sensor set by Steve's instructions and if still running bad put the old ecm back in. You need to zero in on the problem.

defective new ecm
you moved faulty wires
bent pins or not seated
chips not seated or pins bent

Also do the pinout voltage on the ecm's and ecm harness as we suggested.
Unless you have a cam that was degree in wrong Steve's cam sensor should work  with out a miss even if off a few degree's.
Not sure if you checked the crank sensor. Make sure it's set correct and not rubbing (chewed up) from the balancer.
I seen head gaskets just starting push out cause the symptoms you have. Maybe a compression/ leakdown test may be in order if all above fails.

[Scoobum]

Probably not related to your problem...but Dans car developed a miss last year...and it had us stumped. We swapped out the electrical stuff...and it was still there. We called in a friend that's an electrical wizard. One of the TPS wires was broken inside the insulation. Fixed the wire...good to go.