Newbie w. New GN

[Scoobum]

No problem, I'll hold off. To really check the bores correctly...cy linders and saddles...it's best to use a telescopic dial indicator. I recommend taking it to a machine shop for this...they should do it for free knowing that they're gonna get your business. A competent machinist can go thorough these procedures in a short period of time. The rod big ends are best checked on the Sunnen rod machine...as you can do a 360 degree sweep of the bore.

[bryes]

A stock shortblock will easily run well into the elevens..

Be sure you check the pin areas of all pistons for cracks.  Hopefully, luck will be smiling on you

That's good to know about the stock block, they sound tough.  I just have a phobia with cast cranks, I had one (Ford) crack in half a few years back.

No problem, I'll hold off. To really check the bores correctly...cy linders and saddles...it's best to use a telescopic dial indicator. I recommend taking it to a machine shop for this...they should do it for free knowing that they're gonna get your business. A competent machinist can go thorough these procedures in a short period of time. The rod big ends are best checked on the Sunnen rod machine...as you can do a 360 degree sweep of the bore.

Hoping for the best, but planning for the worst (I have already bought jack stands and a creeper)! I've been trying to find a machine shop. I  heard good reviews about one in Augusta, GA that is only a 2.5 hour drive who has experience with turbo buicks.

You must have had different experiences with machine shops than I have because if I remember right, the one I went to wouldn't even touch anything until it had been tanked

Thanks again for all your help, I'll be sure to post updates.

[bryes]

Well everyone, I won't have a chance to work on the car this weekend to get the motor out. My mics are coming through the mail though, so I'll try to measure the bores when they arrive.

I have been considering my options should the engine show additonal significant damage (crank, pistons, etc) or wear; as i suspect will be the case. In the interest of completing this project, I think I have decided against rebuilding this motor for the time being and instead I will buy a reman long block. I have read several posts regarding this route, and most seem to have had good luck with ATK. I called them and it's about $1,600 including delivery. They'll deliver to the house, and  I can just swat out the accessories and intake and more or less be done with it.

Let me know if anyone has any thoughts or suggestions, experience with going the rebuilt long block route.

Thanks

[Charlief1]

If it's from a rebuilder there's no guarantee that you'll get the correct parts in it. If you decide to use what you've got then you have a better chance of getting the right ones.

[Steve Wood]

Very unlikely that the ATK rebuild will have the right crank, or turbo pistons in it....I understand that money is always important, but, throwing good money after bad is always painful

[bryes]

I was looking through some other posts, and it seems they do use turbo pistons, hyper-eutectic silverlight 1735H specifically. Probably they aren't any more expensive for a big company buying in bulk anyway, so might as well use the right one.

As far as the crank goes, I realize I won't be assured to get a rolled fillet. But from a company rep said, they do try and match turbo cranks with the turbo motors when available.  The only post I saw where somebody tried to verify the crank, it turned out to indeed be a turbo crank. Either way, from what I have read, i think I can live with a NA crank for my setup.

There was some mixed reviews about the motors for sure, but I think that is pretty universal for every type of build.


For what it's worth they do have a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty, if they stand behind it at all then maybe it forces them to not cut all corners.

Either way, I'm kind of in a bind here and really haven't had much luck finding a buick engine shop in this area.

[Scoobum]

...

[Steve Wood]

 I understand, and as long as you keep the boost low, those hypereutectics may hold up...until they see a little detonation and then you will discover why they are not used very often...

Oh, well, you gotta do what you do...you can always do it again if it does not work

[Charlief1]

There's a stock short bolck on turbobuick.com in the for sale section right now reasonably priced. Might want to take a look over there.

[bryes]

Thanks for the heads up. I just got back into town and it was already sold! I would have really considered it too.

[bryes]

I understand, and as long as you keep the boost low, those hypereutectics may hold up...until they see a little detonation and then you will discover why they are not used very often...

I can look into getting forged pistons with the motor if that is the major weak point in the build (I believe you can customize some but sacrifice delivery). Would it make sense to have forged pistons with an NA crank?

I'll try to keep a closer eye on the boards, maybe something interesting will pop up in the next couple of weeks.

[bryes]

Ok Guys, another update.

I begged one of my co-workers to borrow his cherry picker and engine stand, so I have completed removing the motor from the car. While I am still considering getting a rebuilt engine, I am also looking into having it machined locally here. I finally found a small machine shop, run by an individual,  whose work all the locals rave about. I think he has been in business a long time but I need to research further... so we'll see. 

Because of this I have been digging into the motor further and have posted some pictures below. The un-damaged bores are not bad, they measured nominal dimension at a small distance from TDC. When I removed the bad piston, the corresponding crank journal looks normal to me, will mic it tomorrow. The rod bearing has  not worn excessively and is not scored badly by my estimation. To me it looks like I'll likely at least have a good crank, I'll have it NDT'd just in case though.

If do rebuild this one, I am going with a stock rebuild with forged pistons. I'll probably have to replace the oil pump because I noticed some shavings were sucked into the screen on this one. Any thoughts on what to get, oil pump wise??

Also, I notice that my flex plate had suffered a fastener bearing failure (see below) so that will have to be replaced. This seems like a strange thing to me. Anyone have this happen??

Thanks for reading,

Bryes.

[$1987 GN$]

One the torque converter mounting tabs breaking hard to see that. Have seen where all the bolts except one have fallen out and the flex plate is rattling and then someone puts bolts back in the missing holes without looking at the one that was left in there.

Either way trash it.

AJ___

[bryes]

Yeah, it's strange. I can say for sure that all of the bolts were torqued TIGHT with blue locktite, it was a real pain to break them loose. Also, All three torque converter bolt holes look similar. I'm just puzzled as to what exactly could do this.

[Charlief1]

My best guess would be that the bolts were just a bit long and were over tightened. Then as time went by they worked back and forth to cause the damage.