Newbie w. New GN

[bryes]

Just to update this thread, I got the trans back in and have driven it now about 200 miles. It's currently kind of my DD, at least days without rain!

Fixing the stator shaft and getting another D5 converter made a huge difference. The car will now build boost at the line and breaks the tires loose at 5 psi. Wow what a difference off the line!

Also, I am running around 17 psi of boost now on 93. For the first time yesterday I got some knock retard 2.1* @ 726 mv while in 3rd gear wot. So looks like I have some tuning to do. Haven't seen any retard in low gear though. I'm going to add fuel as Steve suggested a couple of posts back and see what happens.

[good2win22]

Without reading the whole thread again, Eric's chip will be rich in the low gears and pretty close if not a touch lean on the top end, weather dependent.  Remember that the WOT fuel setting on the chip controls fueling for the entire range, so you'll have to go back to the low gear fuel block and take some fuel out.
The most important piece to this tuning puzzle is to have the basics covered and know your goals.  TPS voltage setting both idle and WOT, IAC working correctly, no vacuum leaks, properly working O2 sensor, fuel pressure at idle and rising with boost. Start with low boost and work your way up, no need to damage something you have work so much for
I'm no expert and I'm sure those with more experience can add more to this. 
 
Glad to hear it's back on the streets!

[Steve Wood]

I have not found the chips to be lean on top end as they are often just a bit rich in third and fourth but not as much so as in one and two.  The O2s were definitely showing lean so check your fuel pressure to be sure pressure is matching boost on a one to one basis...in other words, you should be seeing 60 psi at 17 psi.  Double check your initial setting to be sure it is reading 43#.  I always look at hot idle O2's immediately after coming to a stop after driving the car...not a minute later, but immediately upon pulling up to the stop sign or whatever.  They should be very close to 800 mv assuming you have no air leaks.

The reason I emphasize the need for the O2 to be hot is that least week, I gave William A. the exact same instructions and he said his O2's were 600 or so....new O2 sensor and all....his interpretation of the above was to let the car idle until the coolant temp was 170...long sigh, smh.

Anyway, sometimes the gauges are off a couple of psi and I know the O2's should be around 800 so if they are low, I suspect the gauge if I cannot find an air leak....more than anyone wanted to know, I guess

[good2win22]

Agree with everything Steve says, save one thing.  Depending on what boost you start your tuning with and what boost the chip was burned for, the chip will be be rich in high gears with stock levels of boost (12-13#'s) and start leaning the higher the boost gets. 
 
Fuel pressure is the key.  That's why the basics have to be covered and the engine acting appropriately before going forward with the tuning or damage may occur. It's a tedious process but well worth it.

[Steve Wood]

You are correct.  For some reason, I thought he had a chip from Eric...with the factory chip, he needs to add some fuel pressure...and probably lower the boost a pound

[bryes]

Just to clarify things a little I do have eric's chip, I think it's a TT 5.7 but not 100% sure because I don't have the documentation handy now. I was able to dig up an email that states that the chip is intended for a stock setup with 16- 18 psi boost. My injectors are 42 lb, so my sig is slightly off.


I am running the same setup that I worked up to 19 psi boost on my gauge last year, and I never had KR then under similar situation. I got scared and backed  off the boost a little, shooting for the 17  or so when it showed on the SM, so something must have changed over winter? Also, it never showed any in the low gears, just one time on the highway in 3rd gear. I don't like my boost gauge, it goes to 60 psi so doesn't have great fidelity. Also I noticed that my boost spikes up and then settles back maybe 2-3 psi. Maybe it spiked more than the 17 psi? I am shooting for it to peak at 17 and settle to 15 or so.


The fuel pressure always shoots up to just above 60 under boost and is steady now with the new 340 pump, not like the old one. At idle fuel pressure was 41 with the vacuum tube hooked up, I think it would go up a couple when I removed the vac tube if I remember correctly. I can 2X check with tube off again but I bet it's close.


I'll have to double check the IAC and TPS values again to make sure nothing has changed, I haven't driven the car today. One thing that is a new development is that when the car is warm sometimes the engine will fire then immediately die. I've had to give it a tiny bit of gas to keep it running when it does this. Also during my drive yesterday under acceleration, one time the motor started to misfire and the SES light illuminated briefly.  There were no MAL codes that I saw stored on the SM unless I was doing something wrong. I scrolled through almost immediately so I was surprised that nothing showed.


We had rain today so car is garaged, so I'll try to do what you guys suggest next time I have it out. Maybe Saturday.


Thanks

[Steve Wood]

My advice is to check the idle O2s immediately upon stopping after driving.  If they are 780-800, then add three numbers of fuel in the wide open throttle 3/4 slot and remove three numbers in the 1/2 slot.  See if that eliminates the retard and puts the O2s at wide open throttle to at least 760

If it is below 780-800 at idle, raise the fuel pressure about 2 psi and see what that does to it

[bryes]

I'll do that next time I have it out.


Thanks a lot.

[bryes]

OK, Idrove the car today and after it was warm it looked to me like o2s  at idle ranged from 814 to 820.


Should I reset my iac? My numbers after the drive were

Af 06
L8 43
bat 13.5
Int 128
Bl 122
MPH 0
 Clt 167
 Ats 97
R 800
Tps .44
Iac 80
C c 119
 Mal 0

Wonder if fixing the iac wil limprove my hard starting problems?

[Steve Wood]

Car was a bit rich at idle...

Were the IAC numbers taken in park with the AC off?  If so, they are way high.  there normally is about 1.5 threads emerging on the tip of the adjustment screw on the throttle lever side.

I kinda doubt it has anything to do with the hard starting.  Is it hard to start all the time, or just after it has sat awhile?

[bryes]

Yep park and ac off. Sometimes the car cranks then fires momentarily, then just dies . It won't. stay running unless I hold the gas a little, then it stays running normally.

I'll try to reset the iac tomorrow.

[Steve Wood]

When you turn the key to On, do you hear the fuel pump immediately run for a couple of seconds and then turn off?  Does the car then show about 40 psi of fuel pressure or somewhere clsoe to that?  before you actually crank the car, I mean.

That IAC may be bad....see if it responds to adjustment...b ut as I said above, the normal setting will have the tip of the screw showing about 1 1/2 threads

[bryes]

Exactly 40 psi today at koeo today before cranking. Fired right up too, seems intermittent but more problematic when hot maybe. screw is 1.5 tthreads exposed so maybe I'll throw on an iac on if I can get one at store. it developed over winter so not likely to be adjustment issue I guess,.

[Steve Wood]

when hot is often an indication that an injector is leaking.  Watch your fuel pressure decline after you turn the key off.  If it drops suddenly, then I would suspect an injector in this case.  It may puff some black smoke when it does start as well

[bryes]

My.gauge turns off when car shuts down.however after I turned key on pump primes to forty and holds steady for. a minute or two until I got bored of looking. My experience of leaky injector or flooding is that car won't fire at all, whearas currently the car fires but doesn' stay running unless I hold the throttle down a little.

Also I just started the car and it fired perfectly and stayed running fine.when it. warmed up. my iac. was 32 .