The All About My Monte Carlo SS Thread

[motorhead]

They are actually nylock nuts from a GM brake booster used to hold the master cylinder in place; and they are only there for mock-up purposes. The factory locking nuts are a PITA to re&re.

Steve, I am just going to wrap the pipes with insulation so there won't be any need to grind the welds down. LOL!

[motorhead]

Clearly it has been a few days since I posted an update... but its not like I have been sitting on my hands. Like the driver's side the goal was to honour all of the stock parts and their locations on the passenger's side; including the starter, accessory drive system, belt, transmission cooler lines and coolant overflow tank.  Also like the driver's side the downpipe passing under the header is near to the spark plug boots and will have to be dimpled for clearance, as well the upper control arm or downpipe will have to be clearanced too.

In keeping with my goal of having this all fit under the stock hood, or at the very least the stock hood line, you can see how the exhaust is routed/kept under the body line that accepts the hood's under bracing. And, yes. The hood does close.

On to the oiling system and intercooler(s) etc...

[motorhead]

Twins!

[motorhead]

So I picked up an Edelbrock intake elbow (P/N #3848) and the adapter plate to run a 75mm LS1 throttle body. This is all connected to a 3.5" up-pipe/merge; the merge goes from two 2.5" intercooler charge pipes and transitions into a 3.5" merge. There is a pseudo-boost brace/support bracket under the up-pipe. The charge pipes come from twin Ford Turbo Coupe intercoolers (the inlets are being modified to accept a 2.5" diameter section of pipe) which will be fed by the turbos (duh.). I need my "guy" to get back from vacation to TIG up the aluminum pipes. The intercoolers are hung off of the frame, core support and bumper brackets.   If my understanding of automotive fluid/aero dynamics is correct I can take advantage of a high pressure area under the nose of the car (same one that causes these cars to lift the front end at speed) and a low pressure area at the front of the wheel well openings or inside the engine bay (same one that the radiator uses) to channel air across the cores. I can also pretty easily seal the intercoolers to the underside off the nose/core support using some thick/flexible plastic sheathing (kind of like a belly pan). Or I can add air dams to the back side of the intercoolers to help force air up through the cores.

It looks like I'll be changing the plugs through the inner fenders... probably still easier than doing them on an LT1 or LS1 F-body. LOL.

As you can see general hood clearance is good even with that nitrous plate underneath the intake elbow. Amazingly other than cutting the accessory bracket to fit the header nothing (of use) has been cut-up, moved or deleted.

[Steve Wood]

Looks good!

[Top Speed]

Awesome project!  You have more guts (and skillz) than me.  What compression ratio do you think you have?

[motorhead]

Thanks!

The compression ratio is around 9.4:1 the last time I calc'd it... but could be lower depending how far down the hole the pistons sit, and if I knew how thick the head gaskets were. LOL! This is the reason I wanted to run a factory style EFI system with a knock sensor to show me the limits so that I can safely tune the engine.

[Steve Wood]

tune it with cam duration!

[tb3]

very nice!!!!
 
not gonna use a heater?  I thought you where up north? 
 
lookin good

[motorhead]

Heater might be added back in... just smaller than original.

Steve, the cam in the motor isn't ideal for boost... but, then again this is just a hodge-podge of parts collected over the years.

[Steve Wood]

I understand.  Just suggesting that if the compression turns out a little high, you can add some duration and make it work

[motorhead]

I understand.  Just suggesting that if the compression turns out a little high, you can add some duration and make it work

I am tracking. There is a really good thread about using duration to bleed off compression on SpeedTalk.com. The cam in this engine has 292 advertised duration... so maybe that is a good thing?
 
Basically this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K1106/

[Steve Wood]

with 234, I don't think the compression will be a hindrance at all

[motorhead]

Yeah, I just went searching the SpeedTalk archives and found that a 114 LSA and that much duration should make for a good streetable turbo cam; not that it wasn't a streetable N/A cam to begin with.

When the time comes to start building up the next shortblock for this car I'll be grabbing a moderate solid/hyd roller cam that is properly sensible.

After I get this setup up and running I'll start looking into larger exhaust housings to begin reducing the backpressure. At 10 to 15psi the stockers will work okay; however anything over that is going to become a choke point. Chances are those larger exhaust housings will be attached to larger turbos, naturally snowballing the entire build. I am strongly considering installing bungs in the exhaust stream to allow for a backpressure testing system which is basically a length of steel line and a pressure gauge pre-turbo or post turbo (not that I am worried about the 3" downpipes being a problem).

Oh! on the topic of little victories I plumbed in the oil pressure feed block and TPI's factory oil pressure switch last night. I will see if I can't run the factory (87 MCSS) oil pressure gauge sender too; have the ports available in the distribution block but failed to check for possible fitment of said sender. Anyway this means I can buy the lines/fittings this weekend and plumb these and the returns in.

[TURBOPOWERED68]

i love it