Verifying timing

[dpasadena]

What is the best way to verify timing on a gn? I think my reluctor ring on the balancer is off and want to check the actual timing, Thanks

[SuperSix]

A piston stop is the only REAL way - but even if the reluctor ring is off, the timing marks on the balancer stay the same, correct?

[SuperSix]

And welcome to the board!

[dpasadena]

Thanks for the welcome. I have been having some kr issues since my new rebuild and have checked everything for false knock. I pulled a lot of timing and added a bunch of fuel to see if the kr would dissapear. It did not. I have read that sometimes the reluctor ring could be off and the timing could be either advanced or retarded depending which way the ring is off. If it is advanced in my case, my engine would be seeing the timing that is programmed in the chip plus the extra timing with the ring being off. That wouldn't be too good. I have an idea, by doing research, on how to verify the base timing but wanted some more feedback. Thanks for your reply

[Scoobum]

If you have PL or DS you can record it. If the KR ramps up...then it's likey real. If it spikes for a frame or two...then the knock sensor is hearing something. Wheelspin and 1-2 and 2-3 shift points is common. Knowing what your AF and 02's are...is helpful.

[SuperSix]

How common is it for the reluctor ring to move?

[dpasadena]

I had a wideband in the previous engine and NEVER had any kr with 10.8 afrs. I am using 91/alky. With the new engine,(different balancer) I get knock at all rpms and not just at the shift points. I always thought it was false. I have checked everything under the sun for false knock. The knock comes on fast and even with gently rolling into the throttle. My reluctor ring looks off in comparison to my old stocker. I did pull the ring off and pressed it back on in the correct position(I hope) Just wanted to get the base timing verified so I could check that off my list in solving this problem. The car ran like it was supposed to when I dissabled the knock sensor. There was no indication on the plugs with any real detonation though. I'm in the process of putting the engine back together after something went through the #6 rod bearing. I have been battling this for quite some time. It has been frustrating to say the least. I remember the good old days running a stock longblock, beating the crap out of it and the only thing I had to do was change the oil!

[dpasadena]

The rings are just pressed on and I have read that they can slip with age. Don't think that its too common though. I think that mine was never put on right to begin with. The guy I got this new shortblock from only uses Fast and XFI to control his engines so the ring is not so much of problem when tuning

[Scoobum]

This is a new build...so this likely isn't related to your issue. Norbs had the same problem...and for some reason the thrust bearing got wiped out...and the crank was pounding around in the block...lighti ng up the knock sensor like a Christmas tree. 

[Steve Wood]

I suspect it is more common than people realize.  Probably been over ten years since the first time I saw someone encounter it.  Screw a piston stop in number one and rotate both ways making a mark each time it hits the stop...rotate gently!   the timing line should be half way in between the two lines. 

[Charlief1]

Welcomd Dave, and follow Steves instructions. A pressed on part due to vibrations will eventually move some. It's just the way they work. It doesn't mean yours has but it is possible.

[TURBOPOWERED68]

i was told it could also be done by a jumping two pins and checking it with a timing light.
is this correct?
if so what would be the step by step procedure?

[dpasadena]

I have read that to check the base timing you need to jump the a and b teminals on the aldl connector to get the engine in diagnostic mode. With a timing light(if everything is correct), it should be hitting on the 15degree mark on the inside of the timing tab at idle