Oil Filters-a subject that the Irradiated Kid can get his dentures into

[Steve Wood]

Lately, I have seen more discussion about the total crappiness of Fram oil filters (which can be readily seen when cutting them open so that the glued on cardboard end caps, etc are revealed) as well as the problems with AC filters made in various locations.


While reading thru various discussions, I saw mention of the new synthetic nano filters that do a much better job of filtering while reducing the differential pressure across the filter.  This is very important as it is the differential pressure that pops open the bypass valve and causes more totally unfiltered oil to be pushed thru the engine than filtered oil.  Back when the rage was blocking the bypass, I would not be surprised to know that more engines were lost due to a collapsed filter element than would have been lost to debris that got circulated thru the bypass without the plug.


Adding the hv pump to the equation only adds to the problem as this increases the pressure against the filter media as it cannot keep up with flow so pressure behind it goes up.


I think this link is basically a front for Amsoil, but, recently Amsoil has come out with some first class products in my opinion.  [size=78%]http://ezinearticles.com/?Oil-Filters!-Cellulose-Oil-Filter-Media-Vs-The-Space-Age-NANO-Fiber-Oil-Filter-Media&id=6047869[/size]


I don't know what these new filters cost, but, the advertised concept is certainly intriguing.

[Charlief1]

The part number for the large stock replacement is EAO23 for those that are interested in trying it. At $16.65 each it's not that bad really. You can order it here.

http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?code=EAO23-EA

[tb3]

I've been using wix's for a while now, and using the adapter for the larger filter.  with one of these on it  http://compare.ebay.com/like/110766571787?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
 
that should be good enough, right?
 
I've always wanted to hijack one of sw's threads      so here I go   
 
steve and others....
 
what do you think of this here....  http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/emissions/emissions_exhaustscavenging.htm
 
I know its old technology, but I just recently came across it, but haven't had time to do research on it.  I would think this would be the answer to scavegeing crankcase vapor/toxins/other bad stuff... with no power loss.  you could delete the (controlled  ) pvc leak created in the intake, and tune for better fuel/air, ie=more power.  correct?
and considering we have a turbocharger, which would/should (assuming), eliminate the exhaust pulse,... then all the better?
oh yeah.... a nice dry, oil less intake is also a good thing, I would think
 
thoughts?
 

[Steve Wood]

The part number for the large stock replacement is EAO23 for those that are interested in trying it. At $16.65 each it's not that bad really. You can order it here.

http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?code=EAO23-EA

Or, if you have several cars to maintain, you can pay $20 a year and become a preferred customer to get dealer pricing...afte r posting, I went in search for the number which Charlie came up with above (pf52 refplacement) and saw that offered.  They have a high zinc synthetic as well.   

I don't have a problem with the price.  Of course, I am always amazed at people that spend thousands on an engine and bitch about oil and filter prices

[Steve Wood]

The part number for the large stock replacement is EAO23 for those that are interested in trying it. At $16.65 each it's not that bad really. You can order it here.

http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?code=EAO23-EA

Or, if you have several cars to maintain, you can pay $20 a year and become a preferred customer to get dealer pricing...afte r posting, I went in search for the number which Charlie came up with above and saw that offered.  They have a high zinc synthetic as well.   

I don't have a problem with the price.  Of course, I am always amazed at people that spend thousands on an engine and bitch about oil and filter prices

My first choice is Baldwin followed By Napa/Wix.


With regard to your link on the blow by evacuator, I see no reason it would not help a bit.  The only negative I see is the hassle involved. 

Usually, I hijack my own threads so this is an experience for me!   

[earlbrown]

This is very important as it is the differential pressure that pops open the bypass valve and causes more totally unfiltered oil to be pushed thru the engine than filtered oil.  Back when the rage was blocking the bypass, I would not be surprised to know that more engines were lost due to a collapsed filter element than would have been lost to debris that got circulated thru the bypass without the plug.

What I never understood is all those guys that didn't want "all that crap" going through their engine due to the bypass.
  I don't know about you but my engine isn't full of crap sitting in wait for an open bypass.

[Steve Wood]

Never made much sense to me either....if the engine blows, it has to come apart any way so who cares about a little debris at that point?

[turbojd]

I've been using Napa (gold) oil filters for awhile now, just bought one yesterday. I use #1036, which is equivalent to the AC PF-52.

[Steve Wood]

If you use the "biggie" adapter, then the Amsoil number is EA031 and the Baldwin is B9 (or B39 for the longer version if you have clearance)  Those replace the AC PF24

[Nasty Wendy]

What I never understood is all those guys that didn't want "all that crap" going through their engine due to the bypass.
  I don't know about you but my engine isn't full of crap sitting in wait for an open bypass.

I'm sure they meant all that crap that the filter is supposed to catch.  If you don't have THAT CRAP in your oil then why use a filter at all?

My bypass is blocked off with an dime I epoxied in place to obstruct the passage.  At least I know that if my engine goes it will be worth a dime.  I use PT&E's Turbo Saver and WIX filter and haven't had a single issue.  Cold start up pressure is 80psi and the filter seems to handle it without a problem or rather it has handled it for a number of years now without causing me one.  I typically won't rev it to damnation while its at the 80psi start up pressure but on occasion I have been rushed into driving it without a full warm up and still no issues with the oil psi gauged pegged at times.  I am using stock sized gears so I can't speak for doing this with HV gears.  I find no need for HV gears after doing the Earl Brown front cover mods.

[Steve Wood]

Well, all that crap that the filter is supposed to catch is not caught even with a blocked bypass.  In a conventional filter, only about 80% is actually trapped.  In a performance filter that flows well, it may be only 60%.  Today, now that much smaller particles that were once thought not to be important when it came to wear have been proven to be a major contributor to shorter engine life, the situation is probably even worse.

Then we come to the fact that not all filters are constructed similarly even if they have a magic filter material inside.  If you cut the can off a Fram, you will see that there is very little room around the base for oil to come thru the ring of holes and enter the filter material whereas some brands have many times the entry level.   This makes the filter a major source of restriction to flow.  Add a densely wound filter media and the back pressure goes up even more.  Add glued on cardboard end caps instead of metal, and you end up with a recipe for disaster when a hv pump as added.

Many people don't understand that pressure and volume are inverse by physical law.  That is why Earl's cover mods are a much better solution than trying to use a bigger pump.  In other words, don't fight the Laws unless you can shoot the sheriff and the deputy.

[Steve Wood]

BTW, does that Wix filter have a bypass built into it like the Baldwin B279?

[Nasty Wendy]

I do not think so.  I think one of the points made by PT&E is to use that filter to insure always supplying the engine/turbo with filtered oil. 

I understand the risk involved and I choose to take it.  I do however use a filter that I have had success with and won't sell out for the latest 'CHEAPER BUT BETTER' trap that some penny pinching Buick owners repeatedly fall into.  If I can keep filtered oil flowing through my engine then thats what I chose.  If that means blocking the bypass and having to use a more expensive filter then thats what I'll do.  Maybe I'd feel differently if I lived up north with the Yankees and had to deal with excessively thick oil due to excessively cold weather.  I'd certainly go a different route if what I am doing wasn't working perfectly.  Soooo do you prefer to grill with propane or charcoal?

[Steve Wood]

Mesquite

The Baldwins that PTE supplied for years had a 20 psi bypass in them.  I think the typical GM bypass was about 4 psi.

[gbsean]

Many people don't understand that pressure and volume are inverse by physical law. 



how true a statement has ever been said...

just because you have pressure does not mean you have volume....how many times has this been explained from turbo boost...to oil pressure to compressor ratings....

just because you have 80 psi at start does not mean you have flow....you could have a restriction after the pressure sender spikng the reading....jus t put your finger over a water hose to make it spray farther...lots of pressure but almost no volume