<SOLVED> Car Stored 5 years, Cylinder 4 not firing at all

[Recap]

Did get the broken rocker replaces some time ago and while I was that far into it, decided to fix the intake manifold gasket that has been leaking oil down the back for my block for years!  So all back together, start it up and it still runs like crap.  So as it was still cold out, I was in no great hurry to drive it as there was snow on the ground, and the fact that I was totally pissed off at it, I have not looked at if for several months.  So back at it again this weekend in hope of being able to drive it some time!  About a week away from dragging it in somewhere and saying "fix it".  So to outline again what I have done as best as I can recall
 

• New O2 Sensor
• Checked fuel pressure
• New sparkplugs X 2
• New Plug wires
• New Fuel Filter
• New Coil Pack
• New Ignition Module
• checked resistance between engine and battery to see if it was a grounding issue.
• Removed injectors and had them flushed and flow checked
• Compression check on all cylinders
• Checked injector harness with node light to make sure all injectors are pulsing
• Checked to make sure all plugs are firing. 
• Replaced roller rockers with stock rockers as on #2 cylinder 1 rocker arm was broken and other valve had bent pushrod
• Checked cam position sensor, all good.  Suspected maybe time chain was off for some unknown reason and thought this was the easiest way to check this. 
• Rechecked compression on #2 and #4 cylinders.

Any suggestions any one?  I am out of ideas.  Thought I had this diagnosed when I found the broken rocker arm, but that was only part of the problem.  Still runs like the timing is way off or it is not firing on a cylinder or 2.  About the only things I have not replaced on the MAF and crank position sensor at this point. 

[Scoobum]

You replaced the roller rockers with stock rockers...so I assume you're using stock length pushrods...as the ones for the rollers mite not be stock length. Just checkin'.

[Recap]

That's correct, changed out the pushrods as the roller rockers took a different length pushrod.  Just did a bit of checking on my ignition timing and all looks good.  Put a 1.5" piece of tape on the balancer on the advance side and looked like everything was ok.  Was looking at my scanmaster 2 and the airflow does not seem to change much when the car is revved up.  Took it up to 3K and not much of a change from idle.  Could I have a soft fault on my MAF as it is not setting any codes?  Did the tap test on it a while back and again today and it does not stumble when you tap it.  Unplugged it and the car ran pretty much the same with it unpugged!  All the above has been done in park sitting in the garage.  So no load on the engine.  Runs too bad to think about driving it.
 
Also swapped in another chip of unknown comodity.  Think the guy I bought the 40# injectors from gave it to me.  Says 108 on it so am assuming it is a race gas chip.  A different chip made no difference to how it ran.  Thought it was a stretch, but had a bag full of them sitting around.  Wish I could remember what they all were!  The chip I am running is one Jay Carter made for me about 10 years ago.  But any way, does not appear to be the culprit.

[Steve Wood]

The maf numbers should be 4-6 at 750-800 rpm and should increase when the rpms go up.  How much they go up will depend upon how much load is on the engine as well as the rpm.  I would think your O2s would be dropping and the blms going up altho this will not be as dramatic when the car is not being driven.  Darned sure will run like crap in this case.

Not sure why it is not throwing a code, but,  it sounds like you have found a place to start.  Is the check engine lite on when you turn the key to on?

Be sure to check the ecm connectors for lack of corrosion and a good connection on all pins...as well as the ones going to the maf.

[ULYCYC]

I assume you put fresh gas in and it's not 5 yrs old.  Try and swap the injector from the dead cyl to another and see if the problem moves. May be just a clogged injector.

[Recap]

Gas was changed out every year and stabilizer added.  So I don't think it is a fuel issue.  And the injectors have been removed and sent out to have them cleaned and flow checked.  I think the issue with the dead cylinder was the broken rocker arm and bent pushrod.  Neither valve was opening.  I will check the ecm connection again, but did check them in past.  No service engine light except when the key is first turned on before you start the car.  Any idea what sort of air flow numbers I should see at higher rpms with no load.  I can drive it if that would help, just runs real bad.  If I do buy a new MAF, any suggestions as to where to get one or which ones to avoid as I know the remanufactured ones can be a bit hit or miss and really don't want to send the money on a translater at this point in time until I get the current issue sorted. 

[Steve Wood]

Not sure numbers from my car would be meaningful, but, I would guess the maf should be close to 30 at 2000 rpm...

Maybe someone that is running a conventional set up will give us a better number from their car while in Park.

Rebuilt mafs are a turkeyshoot and none of them ever seem to be spot on, but, sometimes you get lucky and find one that is pretty close.  I would stay away from Airtex/wells and Cardone, myself.  I would rather try a Standard, or maybe an AC Delco altho I have heard of them being off as well

Now that you replaced the rockers, I am assuming the valves are going up and down normally and you are seeing normal compression of about 145/155 on those cylinders on a warm engine?

[Recap]

Cylinder pressures are a little lower, around 135 but that was on a cold motor.  Only did 2 and 4 as I wanted to make sure 2 was ok after that I found.  After doing a lot of pondering regarding why the rocker broke in the first place, I think I have a reasonable explanation.  Rocker arms were contacting the splash shields slightly as there are small witness marks underneath the rocker where it contacted the splash shield.  I think when I set the lash the rocker arm was resting on the splash shield as opposed to top of the valve.  My guess is that I had lash on a hydraulic cam and finally beat the rocker arm into submission.  The reason I say this is that the stock rocker arms have a lot less valve train noise than the roller rockers did.  I will give the standard MAF and try and see how I get on.  I think I can get this through Autozone locally.  Wish me luck!

[Steve Wood]

You did not mention how much the mafs were increasing?

[Recap]

Well the new MAF arrived yesterday and I bolted it on and was greatly disappointed as this does not seem to be the issue.  Did drive it around a little just to see if it would magically get better!  Not.  So about to give up and see if I can find someone around here that can work on them.  Any other suggestions before I give up?

[Steve Wood]

As you have not given any scantool numbers, we are just guessing.

I am assuming you have not check engine light burning because I don't recall you mentioning that.

What was the fuel pressure when you checked it?

[Steve Wood]

someone did not put the cam sensor in 180 out, did they?

[Recap]

As the car ran for several years in it's current state I don't think the cam sensor could be 180 out.  I do have a scanmaster so I can give so data.  That was why I thought my airflow numbers were out as I was getting the data from that. 

[Recap]

Fuel pressure was at 42 psi with vacuum line off. 

[Steve Wood]

You never did give us the maf numbers at 2000 rpm before you spent the money...but, I guess it matters not now.

It sure sounds like a fueling problem.  How long ago did you clean the injectors?