Caspers Headlight Brightener

[Steve Wood]

Do I understand that this is for the hi/lo unit only and not for the single beam hi beam?  No, it seems both are available...ho w about some more education on how to do it?

[Steve Wood]

here is the link

http://ddmtuning.com/Product-Categories/HID-Kits-Lighting/HID-Kits

[turbojd]

You got it Steve ( the link above)   I used the DDM Raptor kit ballasts, and I ordered their D2s bulbs with their raptor kit for $50.00 plus shipping. I got the Autopal 165mm H4 housings off of ebay. I also got the H4 glare shield from ebay, and relay harness. I just did the low beams, I wanted to see how I liked the kit first, then again I hardly ever use the hi beams. The lows are a night and day difference as they are now with the hid. If you want the hi's and lows, you can order the bi-zenon kit, then you will have both.

[Charlief1]

You need to do a do a write up on how to do it. That would save a lot of time for those of us that need a little help visualizing it.

[Steve Wood]

I am getting more and more obtuse with age, I think!

Okay, lets start with the E code conversions.  Often I see two options.  One of these look more like a conventional sealed beam and the other is called a crystal and looks more like a projector light and costs a bit more.  For some reason, I seem to think I read somewhere that these have a worse distribution pattern than the first.  Do you have an opinion on this?  I will let Google be my friend as well.

Pretty sure that I have read that the Autopal housings are pretty good compared to most of the junk out there and looks pretty close to the Hella that I have been considering.

Another question...I don't see the bi-xenon on the DMM site....did you go with the 35w or the 55 w bulbs-if there is such an option with these bulbs.

I hate driving at night...being old does nothing for the eyes and the road sides are covered with deer.  I notice some lights show them to me a lot better than what I have on my truck or cars.

[turbojd]

Steve, I went with the conventional sealed beam look, they have a nice beam pattern.
I ordered their 35 watt kit, not to sure about their bi-zenon kits, as I just did my low beams.

[Steve Wood]

Okay, I almost got it! 


First, you need a pair of H4 housings.  From my past experience, and my reading, a quality E code housing provides a lot better light cut off than do the DOT housings.  They are not legal by DOT standards, but, there should be no problem in using them.  I had Cibies a few years ago and they were very flat across the top but angled up to the right which made street signs show up at long distance.  It is important to be sure the housings are made for cars driven on the right hand side of the road or the light will be thrown up to the left which ain't good.


There are a lot of housings on the market...some are plastic, cheap, and don't have nearly as good beam patterns as the better ones.  The Autopal have a very good reputation for a lower price.  They appear to be copies of the Hella housings and may even be made in a Hella plant.  They have metal backs and glass fronts so they should have greater life and more strength than the really cheap ones.


Hella housings are also available at much better prices than they were a few years ago.  I gave one link earlier that doesn't seem too bad and they should be a little better than the AutoPals, but, if the price is not pretty close, it might be a better deal to go Autopal.


There seems to be at least two lenses available.  One looks more like our lights, and the other is more clear and is referred to as diamond crystal cut.  Most things I google says they don't look right on older cars and probably don't work quite as well as the conventional look.


Then there comes bulbs.  Bulbs come in a bunch of color temps.  If you are trying for the best vision, then a color temp between 4300 and 5000 probably gives the most usable light.  As the color temp goes higher, the light becomes bluer.  Up to 6000 is probably fine and does not give that ricer blue look to oncoming traffic.  5000-6000 probably makes the white lines on the road pop out a bit better.  4300 to 5000 more closely resemble sunlight with regard to color accuracy.


Then we have 35 and 55 watt power bulbs.  Most seem to think that the 35w bulb is plenty adequate.  In theory, the 35w bulb should work with factory wiring.  BUT if the wiring is low and has some voltage drop, then the ballasts will initiall pull power at start up and it will shorten the life of the ballast.  So, a relay to trigger the ballasts is a good idea.


Next, we have single beam and dual beam lights.  I see many are like JD and just use a single beam in the high/low because the light is so good.  It may be that given the H4 reflector design that this is the best way to fly, but, I am not conclusive on that point. 


Then to cut off the light, we need the anti glare shields made to work with the H4 housing and the H4 hid bulbs.  Otherwise we will be soon on the side of the road discussing the issue with a Trooper.


Finally, we need the ballasts and, I think, a relay to light the bulbs up.


For the first time, I am seeing a lot of positive comments on the visibility provided by these lights without obstructing the vision of oncoming traffic and a reasonable price to match.


I hardly ever can leave high beams on for more than ten seconds without meeting a car even out here in boon docks so I need to find out more about them.

[daveismissing]

Night driving has indeed become less fun. One of the things I notice most.

I like Wendy's use of OEM parts to build a system, just needs to be a little less obvious.
One can have confidence that some engineering actually went into the OEM design.
 

Having now seen Wendy's set up: it is a lot of cutting and fitting,
the Lexus parts extend back to the rad support. Kudos to him for getting it worked out.

[Steve Wood]

Here is a pretty interesting thread with some pics of the lights

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f62/want-to-get-a-projector-like-cutoff-and-beam-pattern-out-of-your-hid-equipped-94-97-a-424965/

[turbojd]

Nice write up Steve! Except you must use D2s bulbs in the H4 housing with the glare shields. And even after you get the new housings (Autopal) and decide not to go with the HID lights, you can always just pop some Halogen H4 bulbs into the H4 housing if you wanted to. Whe you order the Autopal housings they also give you a pair of 55/60 watt halogen bulbs. If you went this route,(H4) halogen you would need a H4 wire adapter to plug into the H4 bulbs, or move the pins in the stock wire harness as the pinout is different then the stock halogen bulb. Even with the Hid relay harness I received, I had to move the prongs around to match the stock wiring harness. ( tanwire lowbeam) and then ground pinout on the plug is what you need if your ONLY doing lowbeam setup.

[Steve Wood]

Thanks!  I was going to say something about the H4 housings only taking the bulbs made to fit them...forgot about the D2s part.  And, that is a good point about getting a good upgrade with the housings and the Halogen bulbs to begin with even before doing the hid part.

[daveismissing]

Is D2S a dual or low beam only?

[turbojd]

D2s is a low beam only, unless you get the bi-zenon bulb.

[Charlief1]

Do they make a dual beam that could be used in both instead of a single? That would make a really good upgrade for the high beams. My 89 olds has the high and low beams come on together on high beam, which is really nice at night.

[Steve Wood]

I see nothing about the glare shields on the DDM site.  Did you buy them elsewhere?  Also, if I understand correctly, the bi-xenon high low bulbs move in and out for high and low...wonder if these work with the glare shields....


so many questions!