HD Adjustable Wast Gate Actuator & RJC Bleeder Valve

[1KWIKSIX]

Thought the WG actuator on my new turbo was a stock adjustable. I asked the vendor to be sure to install the stock WG with the turbo.

Went ahead and installed it with out checking. Now I see it looks to be a HD adjustable unit. I've just installed RJC's boost / bleeder valve at the same time too.  When I installed the WG arm....adjuste d it to about 1/8" tension and RJC valve almost completely open so very little tension on the spring inside.

Can anyone tell me what what boost range this set up may allow. I'm not running akly...just 94 octane pump gas. Don't wanna be changing head gaskets anytime soon!

I do have the standard WG too, if need to install.

thanks,

dave

[Steve Wood]

It varies a bit, but usually about 18 psi up

[1KWIKSIX]

It varies a bit, but usually about 18 psi up

Thanks Steve,

If the HD actuator and RJC bleeder valve will only go as low as around 18 psi + or - I think I'll be OK. Was running 20 lbs boost for the past year...and have gone up to 22 lbs boost with no knock retard.

I was concerned that the minimum boost setting may be higher ie. somewhere in the mid 20 lbs of boost +.


dave

[Steve Wood]

not at 1/8" tension...not sure how much tension the rjc puts on the spring inside it...but I think it will be okay...hd actuator is usually about 6-7 psi stronger than std.

[Scoobum]

I've had the HD actuators vary anywhere from 14-18 PSI just barely pulling the rod over the actuator arm. I don't use an RJC valve...cuz this new turbo spools stupid fast.

[1KWIKSIX]

Guess I'm gonna have to pull off the HD Actuator and install the standard Actuator this weekend.   
 
Looks like the RJC Boost Controller / Bleeder Valve increases the lowest level of boost on whichever actuator is installed by like 6 or 7 lbs. Since I'm not running Alky...gotta keep things at no more than 20-22 lbs boost or will be repalcing head gaskets (or worse) soon.
 
Got into boost in 1st gear and made sure to keep an eye on the boost gauge. Had to back out of it as it hit 23-24 lbs and rising real quick.
 
Reason I'm running the RJC Bleeder Valve is that I am trying to help spool up with my stock D5 still in the tranny. I haven't installed my 10" PTC 2800 L/Up converter yet and wanted to help reduce any lag for the time being.
 
Will eventually put the PTC convertor in and won't likely require the RJC Bleeder Valve then.
 
 

[Scoobum]

I checked the other board...and you're running the new 5857 DBB...which Precision states is perfectly matched for the stock convertor. If you can't spool it with the D5...then something's amiss.

[1KWIKSIX]

I checked the other board...and you're running the new 5857 DBB...which Precision states is perfectly matched for the stock convertor. If you can't spool it with the D5...then something's amiss.

No problems with spooling Brad.  Roasted the tires instantly while rolling on the throttle after leaving a 4 way stop on Wednesday!

It spools well with the D5, however could be better.....you can't always believe what is advertised.

The PTC 2800 comes highly recommended by many on the board. This is what Dusty spec'd for me too.

Wanted to use the RJC Boost Controller to "help out" while I'm running the D5.  Unfortunately, I have to take my foot off the loud pedal as even at the minumum setting it's set for too much boost using the RJC Boost Controller in conjunction with the HD Waste Gate Actuator.

[Scoobum]

I'd stick with the D5...and here's why. The D5 is a tighter convertor...an d will give better driveability. ..and the higher the stall speed of a convertor...th e higher the slip rate...so you'll likely lose MPH going thru the traps with the 2800. if you want it to spool quicker you can pull 1st gear fuel thru the chip...or add timing to 1st gear...or both. You mite 60 foot the car better with the 2800...but you'll lose trap speed...it's a trade off.

[Steve Wood]

I am not quite sure what you are trying to achieve, but, if it spins the tires from a stop, then there is no point in going to more stall at this point.  The more you spin the tires, the slower you go.  Now, if you have very sticky tires at a well prepped track, then it might take more converter stall to get all the launch you can get...I would just remove the rjc controller at this point.  If you think you want more punch, add a degree or two to the timing in low gear on the chip and give that a shot and/or take a couple of percent of fuel out in low gear.   Sometimes it is amazing how much difference that it can make.  But, again, spinning the tires is a killer if you are aiming for quickness. 

[Scoobum]

Dave, Cayuga is open every Wednesday and Friday for T and T...so here's what ya' do. Run 'er with the D5...and see what it does. Yank it out...and install the 2800...only takes a couple of hours. Go back and make a run with the 2800...and let's see how much it picks up.

[1KWIKSIX]

Dave, Cayuga is open every Wednesday and Friday for T and T...so here's what ya' do. Run 'er with the D5...and see what it does. Yank it out...and install the 2800...only takes a couple of hours. Go back and make a run with the 2800...and let's see how much it picks up.

Hey Brad,

Sorry to hear of your tranny woes yesterday. Hope you're all fixed up and back up and running again real soon.

Cayuga T&T sounds like a good plan Brad......gott a get rid of the oveboosting issue first though.

Changed over to the standard WG actuator (rod threaded out as long as it would go.....), still getting over 23-24 lbs boost before I have to back out of it. Not good while running pump gas (no alky).  This is with the RJC boost controller / bleeder valve still installed. Looks like I'm going to be removing the RJC boost control vavle and hooking up my Y lines and connecting up the factory electronic waste gate control valve.  Will see how this performs.

I was going to get around to porting and smoothing the waste gate hole on the turbo exh housing, but wasn't planning on doing it till over the winter.  From what I read, since the 5857 is a relatively small turbo, wasn't expecting overboost / boost creep to be a problem like the larger turbos typically experience.

Will put a few more miles on it, so the DP puck can leave a nice carbon imprint for me to follow as a guide.

thanks,

dave

[Steve Wood]

several of these small turbos are bad about creeping....am azing how they cannot improve upon the 49 or 44, but, vendors got to keep putting out magic to get new sales, I guess

[Scoobum]

Drive it around for an hour or two...that'll leave enuf of an imprint...as I just ported mine a few weeks back. As a side note...Dan and I yanked the tranny out this morning in about an hour...and he's dropping it off tomorrow for a freshening. We'll reinstall it Friday or Saturday...and it'll have a couple more upgraded hard parts in it I scrounged up over the last two years since the last time it was freshened.

[Scoobum]

several of these small turbos are bad about creeping....am azing how they cannot improve upon the 49 or 44, but, vendors got to keep putting out magic to get new sales, I guess

I honestly believe that the new series of turbos from Precision are making more HP at lower boost levels...but let's keep this in perspective. I ran my 49 at 24 PSI...without having to port the wastegate hole. Discuss amongst yourselves.