RJC Power Plate Installation **UPDATED 02/06/12**

[SuperSix]

I bought this used about 1 year ago, and finally got motivated to install it. Since I did not but this
new, I have no idea what is included with the kit. I received mine with 2 pristine gaskets attached,
and nothing else. I'm sure there's a better way than how I did it - but it worked for me!

Make sure you have the following:

1: (2) new plenum (doghouse) gaskets (One for the top, and one for the bottom) http://www.nos4gn.com/servlet/the-232/Buick-Grand-National-GNX/Detail
2: New throttle body > plenum gasket. http://www.nos4gn.com/servlet/the-287/Buick-Grand-National-GNX/Detail
3: Some sensor-safe silicone sealer Install DRY
4: Longer plenum bolts (Stock may strip)
4: Obviously - the powerplate.

Tools:
13MM, 15MM, 8MM, 9/32 sockets, 13MM open end wrench, small screwdriver, gasket scraper, patience..

Procedure:
Remove MAF pipe, up-pipe.

Unplug TPS and IAC (be gentle).

Using 8MM socket, remove the screws holding the vacuum distribution block from the top of the throttle
body. Now is a good time to replace the rubber vacuum sections connected to the vacuum block if needed.

Disconnect the transmission kick-down cable, throttle cable, and cruise control cable (if equipped)
from the throttle body linkage. Be careful with those small clips! You can also remove the cable bracket from the plenum and move the cables out of the way, as an assembly. Use a 9/32 socket for the two small bolts.

Disconnect any throttle body coolant lines (Why do you still have these connected?)

Using a 13MM socket with an extension, remove the 2 throttle body mounting bolts. A magnetic pick-up
tool works great here. GENTLY remove the throttle body. Now is a good time to clean it up.

Using a 13MM wrench, remove the bolt holding the throttle bracket to the plenum.

Using a 13MM socket, remove the 4 remaining 13MM bolts on the plenum.

Gently remove throttle cable assembly and PCV vacuum assembly from the rear plenum mounting bolts.
When clear, using a 15MM socket, remove the 2 rear side studs.

GENTLY remove the plenum from the upper intake. Stuff a rag or something in the intake hole to keep
debris out. Now is a good time to clean up the plenum.

Using a gasket scraper, clean all gasket mounting surfaces on the plenum, intake, and also the surfaces
where the throttle body meets the plenum.

Pull the rag from the intake, and clear a path to make it easier to replace the plenum.

Using your replacement gaskets, apply a THIN coat of sensor-safe sealant to all plenum surfaces, and
the intake mounting area. Most Buick gurus recommend installing the gaskets DRY. It's your car, your choice.

Align all gaskets, and replace plenum. Replace all plenum bolts, just snug, not tight enough to squish
all the excess sealant out. (If using sealant, obviously) Let stand for about 10 minutes.
NOTE! If using the stock plenum fasteners BE VERY CAREFUL. The added thickness of the Powerplate reduces the amount of bolt threads that can go into the lower intake. If you over-tighten these - you WILL strip the plenum bolt holes in your lower intake!
It's best to make a trip to the local hardware store and get longer bolts. The standard non-stud bolts for the plenum are M8 X 1.25 X 25 - an M8 X 1.5 X 25 would be better.

As far as the rear studs - if you think you need them you can get a stud and some washers/nuts, or just use bolts.

Tighten plenum bolts in an alternating pattern.

Take the same care an patience applying sealant to throttle body and front of plenum, and the
reassemble all components.

I don't race my TR, so I don't know if it's any faster number-wise, but my car idles GREAT now, and
seems much smoother.

[Be4u]

Thanks to guys like you and posts like this I've been able to do tons of work on my car. I've NEVER worked on cars before my GN. Step-by-step guides kick ass!

I read through the post, you mention how the pass side rear bolt strips easy on the plenum? Maybe a suggestion of using studs would be useful too.

[SuperSix]

Thanks to guys like you and posts like this I've been able to do tons of work on my car. I've NEVER worked on cars before my GN. Step-by-step guides kick ass!

I read through the post, you mention how the pass side rear bolt strips easy on the plenum? Maybe a suggestion of using studs would be useful too.

Glad you fellas like it. I'm sure studs may be an upgrade - and you need to be careful ANYTIME you tighten something in aluminum.

PLEASE contribute if you can.. Even simple shit (CHanging oil, spark plugs, general maintenance, etc) would be appreciated.

DCEPTCN - You can tell us how to get gerbils out of your "exhaust pipe".

 

[SuperSix]

I'm swapping a turbo this weekend....alt hough it's simple, would you like me to write down the step-by-baby step notes for that?

No, no time today - BUT, that would be a great addition! Muhahahahah

And about the power plate -like I said, I can't really tell if it's faster, but it idles hell smooth now.

[DCEPTCN]

I'm swapping a turbo this weekend....alt hough it's simple, would you like me to write down the step-by-baby step notes for that?

No, no time today - BUT, that would be a great addition! Muhahahahah

And about the power plate -like I said, I can't really tell if it's faster, but it idles hell smooth now.

Yeah, the main reason I got one is just for cheap insurance....t his way, I'll KNOW that no cylinders in particular are going lean.

[SuperSix]

I'm swapping a turbo this weekend....alt hough it's simple, would you like me to write down the step-by-baby step notes for that?

No, no time today - BUT, that would be a great addition! Muhahahahah

And about the power plate -like I said, I can't really tell if it's faster, but it idles hell smooth now.

Yeah, the main reason I got one is just for cheap insurance....t his way, I'll KNOW that no cylinders in particular are going lean.

A perfectly unscientific thing I noticed, was that the BACK of the plenum had very little or no oil staining (BAd PCV), but the sides and the front did. Indicates to me the air was moving a lot faster towards the back, which only makes sense.

I know a lot of people like to diss it and say that is actually impeding your pressure....bu t isn't the measurement the exact same as the mm of the throttle body?

[SuperSix]

I know a lot of people like to diss it and say that is actually impeding your pressure....bu t isn't the measurement the exact same as the mm of the throttle body?

Hmm.. Not sure. I do remember the demo Jason had @ BG. Definately impressive, and I think the overall concensus, niw that it's been out awhile, is that it's definately worth the cost.

[Be4u]

[schild=11 fontcolor=000000 shadowcolor=C0C0C0 shieldshadow=1]What he said[/schild]Goddamn, that's a lot of work for that lousy little plate. I've had mine sitting in the back seat of the GN since I bought it at the

[Recklessrob]

I've got a power plate on mine too. The car definately runs smoother with it.
Very easy to install. I did mine a little different than most. I leave the throttle body alone except for the 2 studs from the upper plenum. I unbolt the coil pack
assembly and move it out of the way. then I can pick up on the plenumand slide it
toward the firewall and it come right out.

[DCEPTCN]

[schild=11 fontcolor=000000 shadowcolor=C0C0C0 shieldshadow=1]What he said[/schild]Goddamn, that's a lot of work for that lousy little plate. I've had mine sitting in the back seat of the GN since I bought it at the

[Be4u]

Oops, I forgot. Nevermind that line...I dont know what I was thinking. I remember now, you said that your threw wrenches in the field 'cuz of the drainback.

[SuperSix]

To the top!

[Steve Wood]

if one plans ahead, the bolts that hold the plenum to the intake are going to be a hair short after the plate is installed and it is easy to strip the threads in the intake when snugging them down as a consequence... ..so buy some studs and screw into the intake and clamp the plenum with nuts on the studs.  Eliminates stripped threads and insures that the plenum can be snugged down enuf to not have a small vacuum leak.

Studs should be long enuf to properly engage in the intake and accomodate the nuts properly.

I have never used sealer on the gaskets....and don't remove the tb, either as mentioned by someone else.

[Charlief1]

Since you're using a paper gasket you can use grease instead of sealer and the gaskets will stay pliable and not stick to the surfaces but will come off clean i you have to take things apart again. They will seal just fine and sometimes you can reuse them.