Mustangs - they're not just for breakfast anymore
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I was talking about the chain slop potentially being a result of improper line boring. If the machinist takes off too much meat, the crank centerline will move up in the block closer to the cam. The solution is to buy a "shorter" timing set. It could be that the timing set is just worn out though. The only way to know for sure is to measure and see what's been done to that block.
Looks like a cheap chain to me...there is seldom justification for a double roller on our cars as we simply do not run enuf spring pressure to need one...after all, a well maintained factory engine will generally make well over 100,000 miles on the factory chain and eventually succumbs to heat and age. I bought one car that had the original changed at 168,000 miles. Some posted a link to a TAPerformance single roller that looked good.As far as the cam goes, I would use the 208 degree cams that Licht sells, or one of the Lunati style cams if they are still available. Seems like they were around 205 degs. And, someone will post the wonders of the Edelbrock or Sealed Power Cams that are about 204 on the intake duration. Nothing magic about cams as long as the duration does not get too long...speakin g of the average street engine.I am not averse to using Joe Gibbs break in oil for the first 1000 miles.Earl's cover would be a mandatory purchase if I were to build a new engine....you don't know what you are going to get with a new chinese cover.
cam looks like a cheap casting to me...I would be nervous about using it. Noisy lifters often set off the knock sensor...I would not use them
Are these the lifters you are talking about Dave?http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1405
my first choice remains the 208