Author Topic: New 87 GN (Topic merged with "It's On!" post) (Read 137681 times)

SuperSix · « **Reply #330 on:** July 24 2017, 04:21:02 PM »

Quote from: Steve Wood on July 24 2017, 11:48:03 AM

Lotsa progress! Did you check all the check valves to see if they still function? The hose that goes to the vacuum ball under the canister always worries me

Like most of the car, they are new.

SuperSix · « **Reply #331 on:** July 24 2017, 04:21:31 PM »

Quote from: Scoobum on July 24 2017, 04:00:58 PM

Think my retirement plan is to go around to TR's owners homes like our boss' here and get their TR's up and running. I'll sleep on their couch...raid their fridge of beer and food...whiz on their front lawn between beers...throw wrenches and yell obscenities... and have Molly Hatchet Flirtin' With Disaster screaming from the stereo in my truck.

That's a solid goddamn plan there.

daveismissing · « **Reply #332 on:** July 25 2017, 08:54:12 AM »

Kinda like a "Turbo Buick personal trainer"
I like. Or is that *like*?

SuperSix · « **Reply #333 on:** July 31 2017, 11:13:44 AM »

Got more stuff done this weekend.

Installed last driver's side header bolt.

Installed/tightened crossover.

Installed motor mount bolts (After looking for them for 30 minutes, and another 45 minutes for a trip to Lowe's)

Installed new A/N trans line fitting, broke that fucker too, I need to read up on how to tighten A/N fittings without breaking them.

Yet another one on order from Summit.

Mocked up/test fit 3" single shot exhaust, ordered stainless Wagner band exhaust clamps.

Inspected muffler (DynoMax UltraFlow 3" offset), decided it's trash, previous owner used old-style clamps, and must have use an impact to install them. He also decided to use a chop saw to remove the old muffler from the end pipe that goes over the differential, so I ended up ordering a new muffler (same one) and an extension piece so I can fab it up to replace the section cut out, and still stuck in the old muffler. You can see the hammer marks on the old muffler where he tried to beat it off of the pipe.

Spent 30 minutes grinding off slag from the horrible welds on the Y test pipe.

Used my beloved brass hammer and banged/hammered on both the downpipe exit (TH 3") and forepipe so they fit. Looks like someone used the forepipe to hammer a nail.

Couldn't find the front sway bar bolts, pretty sure it was removed when I bought the car. I researched it, and decided to use Rivnuts in the frame, and bought steel hex socket head cap bolts because of the allowed/limited bolt head size.

Spent most of Sunday looking for parts and gaskets - lots of Amazon and other packages coming.

Parts I am missing:
1. Shift cable trans mount clip
2. Factory front sway bar bolts (being upgraded/replaced)
3. Many more to come.

Remaining/Updated list:
Attach last braided trans cooling line. (Still - broke ANOTHER fitting)
Attach shift cable bracket. (Found it, on an old trans I had)
Install trans dipstick, tube, and fill trans with fluid.
Verify kick-down cable is installed correctly.
Install downpipe.
Install exhaust. (Mocked up, waiting for parts)
Flush/fill fuel system.
Wire important gauges. (Oil pressure, coolant)
Bleed brake system.
Install new A/C lines.
Finish installing front sway bar.

Scoobum · « **Reply #334 on:** July 31 2017, 11:34:03 AM »

Steves site has the proper adjustment procedure. Barely snug up the AN fitting...fire the car up and check for it leaking...and snug it from there. You can't gorilla those fittings.

SuperSix · « **Reply #335 on:** July 31 2017, 11:43:38 AM »

Quote from: Scoobum on July 31 2017, 11:34:03 AM

Steves site has the proper adjustment procedure. Barely snug up the AN fitting...fire the car up and check for it leaking...and snug it from there. You can't gorilla those fittings.

Wish I had read it before breaking the 2nd one, and this one broke off inside the hose, so i will have to cut off the end and replace it. Grrrr

It's the last fluid (except gas) I need to fill before I fire it up.

TexasT · « **Reply #336 on:** July 31 2017, 03:47:12 PM »

That shift cable clip is the same as the brake hose clip. If ya need one send me an address and ill get one in the mail. I bought what I thought was one and it came as a five pack I think

SuperSix · « **Reply #337 on:** July 31 2017, 03:57:40 PM »

Thanks - I'll check my spare brake assemblies and let you know - thanks

Pyro6 · « **Reply #338 on:** July 31 2017, 05:12:07 PM »

Quote from: SuperSix on July 24 2017, 04:21:31 PM

Quote from: Scoobum on July 24 2017, 04:00:58 PM
Think my retirement plan is to go around to TR's owners homes like our boss' here and get their TR's up and running. I'll sleep on their couch...raid their fridge of beer and food...whiz on their front lawn between beers...throw wrenches and yell obscenities... and have Molly Hatchet Flirtin' With Disaster screaming from the stereo in my truck.

That's a solid goddamn plan there.

What he said

SuperSix · « **Reply #339 on:** August 07 2017, 02:26:33 PM »

Didn't get a ton done this weekend, but I did get the swaybar mounted. A lot of the paint and prep I did was for naught, there's a lot of surface rust. It used to look so good!

The suspension is DONE.

I used 10 x 1.5 x 25MM all cap-head socket bolts - grade 12.9 and rivet nuts. Those things are badass!

Bought these items on Amazon:
Astro 1427 Hand Rivet Nut Kit - $38.00
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTGLUSZ/

175PCS Metric M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 Mixed Zinc Plated Carbon Steel Rivet Nut Threaded Insert Nutsert Assortment Kit - $12.99
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073H6CSXY/

iExcell Total 20-Pack Black M10 x 20mm/25mm/30mm/35mm Thread Pitch 1.5mm 12.9 Grade Alloy Steel Hex Socket Head Cap Screws - $6.98
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTGLUSZ/

Right and left suspension pic

Peeking up at the engine..

Shot down the frame..

Scoobum · « **Reply #340 on:** August 07 2017, 06:08:02 PM »

Lookin' good boss.

SuperSix · « **Reply #341 on:** August 12 2017, 05:33:04 PM »

Nice day wrenching today, got some important stuff done, and some trivial as well.

Test fitted the downpipe - it fits perfectly. I will pull it off once more to apply some copper silicone sealant.

Gave the turbo shield three coats of 2000 degree flat aluminum engine enamel - same stuff I used on the rest of the aluminum-colored items in the engine bay. This was after spraying it with regular temp primer.. Probably a bad idea - we'll see if it boils/burns/bubbles.

Used more rivet nuts - this time to get a better grip for the grounds to the firewall, no worry about it pulling out, coming loose, etc. Used an M8 rivet nut, bolt and serrated washers. Someone got drill happy on the firewall, I need to plug those holes somehow.
I also used two small M5 rivet nuts / cap head screws / serrated washers to affix the underhood light - the factory holes were demolished. Reattached the bulb positive lead.

Cleaned up and reinstalled charcoal canister. I don't have the solenoid, and I remember clipping the sensor wires and tucking them into the loom. If nothing else, it will absorb/diffuse the vapors. If I start smelling fuel, I'll address it. Not a priority now.

Refurbished the A/C line clips I bought, then I won an eBay auction for more, so now I have two sets. one pair is all clean, primed and painted.

Still need to address the fan situation - I have some ideas.. I want to box in the radiator, and box in the fans too using sheet aluminum and, you guessed it - rivet nuts to attach. I saw some old ATR ones, shouldn't be too hard to replicate with some cardboard a sharpy and a utility knife. I could go bonkers and get a cheap sheet metal brake from HF..

Not sure who I bought this intercooler from, but the paint job is done... Paint was flaking off using a hose on the "Jet" position.