Author Topic: Vacuum fluctuation at idle.  (Read 3135 times)

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Offline Jordan_J

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Vacuum fluctuation at idle.
« on: April 14 2011, 04:49:10 PM »
It moved up and down a couple of pounds really once the car has warmed up but until then it runs fine. Also when I let of the gas and am just rolling it does it. What could cause this?

Cam?
Head gasket?
Vacuum leak?
87 Turbo T - 4.1 484 block bored .030 over, Champion ported irons with ported intake, RJC power plate, Elgin 214/224 cam, 6776 turbo with RJC boost controller, stretched SLIC, 3\" THDP, Pypes dual exhaust, 4\" MAF pipe with 14\" K&N and Z06 MAF, 60# Mototrons, hot wired Walbro 340 with KB-BAP, Translator Gen 2 and Extender Extreme chip, Mike Kurtz built 200-4r, PPC 3200 stall, UMI upper and lower control arms, passenger side airbag, any hydroboosted.

20# Boost at 20* timing on 93 octane. No track times yet.

Alky install in progress.

Offline Steve Wood

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Vacuum fluctuation at idle.
« Reply #1 on: April 14 2011, 05:31:33 PM »
Inches of mercury  :)

It should read fairly steadily at idle, cruise or any steady throttle position as long as there is no load change.

Typical might be 15" at cold start up  increasing to maybe 17" as it warms up...all at idle.

going down the road at 70 mph, it maybe 12" and drop to 6-8 going up a hill.  

If you step on the gas, it may go to zero, or onward into boost.

If it is jumping around at idle without the gas being touched, then it could be a leak, bad valve, poorly damped gauge, or something else.

My numbers are ball park guesses as the engine combination, altitude, engine condition, etc. can all affect the vacuum being pulled.

Most gauges probably don't move much more than an inch on a healthy engine if a quality gauge is used...that is my experience, anyway
Steve Wood

http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com

A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.

Offline Jordan_J

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Vacuum fluctuation at idle.
« Reply #2 on: April 14 2011, 09:13:47 PM »
Awesome thanks for the info Steve!

Would there be any other key symptoms to a bad valve?

One thing I noticed is the RPM occasionally will jump up and down like 200 rpm which leads me to think it's a vacuum leak somewhere.
87 Turbo T - 4.1 484 block bored .030 over, Champion ported irons with ported intake, RJC power plate, Elgin 214/224 cam, 6776 turbo with RJC boost controller, stretched SLIC, 3\" THDP, Pypes dual exhaust, 4\" MAF pipe with 14\" K&N and Z06 MAF, 60# Mototrons, hot wired Walbro 340 with KB-BAP, Translator Gen 2 and Extender Extreme chip, Mike Kurtz built 200-4r, PPC 3200 stall, UMI upper and lower control arms, passenger side airbag, any hydroboosted.

20# Boost at 20* timing on 93 octane. No track times yet.

Alky install in progress.

Offline Steve Wood

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Vacuum fluctuation at idle.
« Reply #3 on: April 14 2011, 10:39:49 PM »
you can do a compression check to see if you have a leaky valve...someti mes if it is an exhaust valve, you can hear/feel it in the exhaust
Steve Wood

http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com

A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.

 

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