Libya for Sylvan

[Steve Wood]

I went to Libya in 1966 just short of my 25th birthday.  I went because I found out that the $450 a month that I was making would be raised to $650 and I would be paid approximately $280 a month in local Libyan currency as I would be based in Tripoli.  One would have to be nuts to pass up that kinda money!

Now, like most, I had no idea of life outside the U.S.  Okay, I had no idea as to life is more like it, but, the hippy generation was underway, and things were beginning to look up at home, but, I wanted to get rich quick so I would not have to work all my life.  Everything I heard about Libya was bad and I expected to suffer for the paycheck.  Figured it was a bunch of camel jocks and tents.   Imagine my surprise when the plane was landing and I saw a major city lit up like the Las Vegas strip...okay, a slight bit of hyperbole, but, it was a major sized city.

We should know about Tripoli from the Marines song, Halls of Montezuma to the shores of Tripoli..it is an old city, and, has existed in some form since the Romans ruled North Africa.  Like most of the Middle East and North Africa, it has been ruled by numerous external powers, and like most of the area, it had no formal boundaries until after the Second World War.  

Before the first War, it was under the control of the Turks who sided with the wrong side in the war and the Italians ended up in charge until the Second War when they chose the wrong side and the Brits claimed it.  Now, I blame the Brits for many of the Mid East problems because the various winners took over and started dividing the area up into new countries and put their favorite allies in charge even if the population did not particularly like these new rulers.

In Libya, they took a desert chieftain of the Senussi tribe and made him King Idris of Libya which I think was about 2.5 times the size of Texas and it had a population of a bit more than a million people at the time consisting of three major groups, the Senussi's in the east (Cyrenaca), a black group way down  south in the lower Sahara (the Fezzan), and some other tribes in the western part which was called Tripolitania.  Beyond these basic groups, there were green eyed Berbers, Touaregs, and other groups that belonged to other affiliations that I no longer recall.  The one clear thing was none of them liked the next.  

Like most of the other groups, the population was further divided into the haves and the havenots.  Rich and corrupt, or poor and mean as a sand rattler.

The first thing I learned about Tripoli was that it was paradise for single guys.  There were about three women for each guy.  Most of these women were secretaries imported from Britain and paid about $300 a month and glad to get it it as England was in the midst of its Socialist revolution and people were not doing well at home unless they were labor leaders, or billionaires.

At that time, the Brit birds were way ahead of the U.S. when it came to Sex and Rock 'N Roll.  Even I could get laid whenever I wanted.  No drugs, that was asking to get something cut off and it was not worth the risk.  Being that most guys worked in the desert, it was like shooting fish in a barrel...altho I have never tried that.....

The Italians still had a strong influence and ran large olive groves and the local brewery.  Beer, and all forms of alcohol were availabe as well as a Casino, cabarets, picture shows, etc.  It was very western like, but, probably a bit more corrupt.  There was virtually no customs duty on electronics, cameras, and such so that the normal luxury items were often cheaper than back in the States.  Malta, Rome, Athens, and London were close at hand.  Athens, in those days, would get you a room, a woman, and a meal for about $5.00 for the night.  So would Malta, but, until this day, I have never seen a Maltese that was worth that when it came to looks....

There was also a small Jewish population in Tripoli that lived in what I guess could be called a ghetto but, really, it was just a small somewhat contained area.  No one messed with them because the provided the brains and guidance to the rich Libyans and showed them how to use their money for the maximum return.  Pretty much like a lot of Europe prior to WWII, I should guess.

As a foreigner, we were normally left alone and could go just about any place in the country, if there was a road there in safety.  It helped, of course to speak a little Arabic, or Italian once off the beaten path.

The countryside was very interesting, and, often beautiful  As I mentioned the Romans had once occupied the country and the Phoenicians had once operated ports there.  The best Roman ruins outside of Italy are found along the coast line of Libya.  In some places, the sea had encroached into the cities and if one went swimming one could see marble columns, statuary, etc in the water as well as sometimes find roman coins.  In some of the buildings that were still standing were paintings of how the countryside looked in those days when much of it was grass land and not desert.  There were a few areas not too far from the coast where one could sometimes find hyenas, gazelles, and a small spotted cat that I think was called a serval altho I may be thinking of someplace else.

[Steve Wood]

Further inland, on top of escarpments, were still the remnants of Roman forts that were placed there to prevent raiders from the south coming up to attack the coastal cities.

[Steve Wood]

I got tired fingers and left out the time I got two bricks thru the windshield of my MGB the day the '67 war broke out...one which skinned my ear on the way by, and the time I drove a Fiat 600 between the front and rear legs of a donkey at 1 AM and flipped it over the car...only wrinkled the hood of the car...not too mention the mess in the seat.

[Wrecked Em]

I got tired fingers and left out the time I got two bricks thru the windshield of my MGB the day the '67 war broke out...one which skinned my ear on the way by, and the time I drove a Fiat 600 between the front and rear legs of a donkey at 1 AM and flipped it over the car...only wrinkled the hood of the car...not too mention the mess in the seat.

Did you leave the mess?

[DCEPTCN]

This is the most incredible thing I've ever read. While it's hardly befitting of a person of my standing to exhibit humility in any form, I've got to acknowledge what a treasure we have here. Thanks, Steve. Really.


Can we start a thread like this on old stories? I'm skeptical that any could compete with Woody's contributions but I think it would be neat.

[Steve Wood]

damn straight I left the mess in the road, that would have been the most expensive donkey in Libya.  My wife, whose Fiat it was, made me clean up the inside once she stopped screaming we are going to die.

[Charlief1]

One of these days you and I will chat Steve. I think we may have a few stories to exchange. Glad you made ti back from the idiots.

[DCEPTCN]

Steve needs his own Dos Equis commercial.

[Steve Wood]

give me the women, keep the commercial

[Steve Wood]

Shortly after the revolution, the Russians saw an opportunity to replace the west in Libya and sent them a bunch of bargain basement tanks.

You know those rubber tank tread protectors?  Apparently, the Libyans didn't.  They unloaded them at the port and promptly jumped into them, fired them up and began to roar down every street in Tripoli.  Amazing how quickly a tank will turn an asphalt road into a giant rumble strip.

[Just a Six?]

We Pay for those things on the road edge so you wake up if you go in the ditch!
Let's just get some tanks & have some Fun doing it!!

[gbsean]

Great Post Steve...

[DCEPTCN]

We Pay for those things on the road edge so you wake up if you go in the ditch!
Let's just get some tanks & have some Fun doing it!!

Am I the only one who cheers whenever they play the video of the guy in San Diego who stole a tank?

[gbsean]

This is the most incredible thing I've ever read. While it's hardly befitting of a person of my standing to exhibit humility in any form, I've got to acknowledge what a treasure we have here. Thanks, Steve. Really.


Can we start a thread like this on old stories? I'm skeptical that any could compete with Woody's contributions but I think it would be neat.

would have to agree and I am not kissing anyone arse...I know Jim Seaton has some stories to tell...my only claim to fame is when I met Queen Juliana of the Netherlands as I used to live across the street from her palace and was in her park riding my bike...but all my stories are from when I was kid...as well as hanging out with Ambassadors children when I lived in the Netherlands...

[DCEPTCN]

Sean, pace yourself. First tell me who the hell Queen Juliana is.