Steve, when you write your tech section, figure in why anybody even wants a 200A alternator. Rear window defroster(so when we drive these cars in the snow), mini starter ( which uses gear reduction to an advantage) and 7,000lb lnjectors (to go really fucking fast) and than I will understand the major load requirements. Oh, and a boom box.
None of that even comes close to making one need a a 200 amp alternator other than possibly a 1000 watt system...and then , one does not need one of these overdriven alternators that will soon burn up because they cannot handle the heat. For serious system use, one needs an alternator with external rectifiers to try to cope with the heat that is generated.
Again, if your car is making enuf voltage to keep the battery charged at idle for long periods of time (say 13.0v) and around 13.5 v at cruise/wide open throttle on a volt meter (
not a scantool), then the alternator is sufficient. Note that the battery acts as a buffer with plenty of stored amps for normal idle periods.
If your stock alternator gets tired, then replace it with the Impala 140 amp unit which is the second generation, improved version of our CS 144s.
This is what I turned Ed's write up into...about three times as long as he originally wrote....might be too much of a rant, tho...
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/alternatorselection.htmI see some of these guys selling alternators are putting smaller pulleys on them trying to get more amps out at idle...maybe savino is not the only one that does not understand the difference between alternator rpm and engine rpm?