Tachometer fails at 2K to 3K RPM

[gordyzx9r]

I hooked the CCCI simulator and it didn't show anything at all...not sure it's GM.  

I replaced the ignition module with a brand new AC Delco, and the coil pack as well with an AC Delco unit; and it works like advertised with the Stewart Warner 10K tachometer.  Just need to wait on that 8K to get back and I'll put her all back together then take her in to have the old Viper alarm system completely removed and put in one of the new Clifford systems.

[Steve Wood]

probably be there tuesday, I would guess.

I never like aftermarket modules and if it did not work with the tester, it was an aftermarket of some kind.

Sounds like progress to me

[gordyzx9r]

This is the one I pulled out...no markings on it.  The AC Delco one I just put didn't have that black 'gel', it was more of a dull green 'gel'.  And the pins were different too.



This is one of the hacked up wiring jobs I discovered done by the guys that did my alarm system 4 years ago.  It's supposed to be wired up to the tachometer wire coming out of the ignition module...it's not.  And repairing that wire will be fun since there isn't much to work with.  I wish I had a better soldering iron than the cheap one I have now, might have to invest in one tomorrow.



Any idea where I could get a light plug assembly like this?

[Steve Wood]

might check the Help section...don't remember seeing one like that....

[Recklessrob]

It is normal for aftermarket ignition modules to not work with a Caspers tester.
I bought a Duralast module from Autozone, because it was the only one available on a weekend. It wouldn't work with the tester, but it seemed to work fine on the car.
Makes you wonder if Caspers got their design right ?

[Steve Wood]

Aftermarket modules have different circuitry.  

John was going to build a next generation unit that did more things as well as work with the aftermarket units, but, I have never seen it announced.

Some brands are prone to a code 42.

[gordyzx9r]

Well...I found the socket and bulbs at Lauderdale Speedometer.  The reason I wanted them is because the dash has provisions on the dummy lights for "POWER INJECTION" and "ALARM" so my plan is to hook them up accordingly and have the POWER INJECTION go off when the alcholol sprays and the alarm is illuminated when activated.  They should be here tomorrow and then I just need to see if I can wire in the SMC alcholol control head and alarm indicator lighting into it.  

I just got a new CK Performance SS deep sump transmission pan in yesterday...I think the one I have on the car is an old Art Carr or a (reproduction of an Art Carr), but I've tried every seal I can to keep it from leaking and nothing.  

Been tracing the wiring on the Viper...I think that lone wire may been the only issue.

I think the next investmet is going to be with Vacuum Brakes and a power logger of some kind.

[gordyzx9r]

Soldered/repaired the wiring on the ignition module today.  Gonna try to tidy up the wiring under the dash this evening and maybe solder the alarm wiring and get rid of the butt connectors.  Also, gonna try to tidy up all the stuff going to the fuse box (scanmaster, audible knock detector, SMC control panel, and tachometer).  

Soldered the wiring back on the tachometer to the cluster aside from the tachometer +/- and tachometer lead.  I'll hopefully have the dash put back together this evening or in the morning.

Wasn't quite expecting this kind of a setup...but, it's pretty solid.  It's the SS piece from CK Performance, comes with that fabricated neck, two gaskets, and an aluminum shim.  I need to look at the seal at the shifter shaft assembly/linkage(?).  I was told today that it's common for that seal to get discombobulate d and 'cause a leak.





Here is the pan that is currently on the car (notice the drop of fluid about ready to fall off...

[Recklessrob]

If you were to use the grey Mopar Trans/Diff RTV, that pan would never leak.
You probably would never be able to remove it either...

[87natty]

Damn. I'm using a 4Lxx filter shielded by an Art Car pan, but Don Wang machined it to fit.

I'll have to look at that Mopar RTV, mine is misting goo everywhere, I know it's not the pan or rear main.

[gordyzx9r]

How are you all 'powering' your accessories?  

I have the following to 'power':
Scanmaster
Audible Knock Detector
Alcohol Control Panel
Additional Wire to Dash to Illuminate Lamp When Alcohol is Spraying
Tachometer

All of these were just crimped with spades and stuck into empty slots of the fuse box.  There has to be a cleaner, safer method.

[gordyzx9r]

Well the dash is rewired and put back together, the 'Power Injection' light lamp on the dash illuminates when the alcohol sprays so that's nice to have now.

However I'm gonna have to get creative with the alarm.   It comes with an LED that illuminates when the alarm is armed, I ran it to the 12V lamp on the off chance it was a 12V system...it's not.  So, I've got to see if I can (by begging for help on the forums) find a way to trigger that 12V lamp with a series of relays.  

Drove the car, and it's insane.  I forgot how (comparatively) fast these cars are.

And I have a 'brake' issue to troubleshoot now...great, please just be a damn accumulator ball.

[gordyzx9r]

Well...it wasn't the accumulator.  I have a few extra switches too, so I guess I'll throw one of those at it...just need to figure out what kind of socket I need for that.  I have a NIB complete Powermaster assembly but I'm not gonna fool myself into thinking I can do that if it comes to it.  I figure I'll just use all the Powermaster crap I have and then go vacuum.

[Recklessrob]

Don't be so afraid of the power master. Just remember one thing: With the key off
(preferably a disconnected battery) pump the brake pedal 25 times to bleed off pressure from the accumulator before servicing any parts. As for you light issue,
Is the L.E.D. bright enough to light up the factory light that you want? You may be able to drill out an old bulb socket to mount the L.E.D.

What is the problem with your brakes anyways ?

[gordyzx9r]

Don't be so afraid of the power master. Just remember one thing: With the key off (preferably a disconnected battery) pump the brake pedal 25 times to bleed off pressure from the accumulator before servicing any parts.

Yeah, I gathered that much from the gn-type website articles about depressurizing the system.  

As for you light issue Is the L.E.D. bright enough to light up the factory light that you want? You may be able to drill out an old bulb socket to mount the L.E.D.

It's just an 'Alarm System' window that can be illuminated with a 12V lamp in my gnx-style dash.  The alarm comes with an LED and it's illuminated/triggered when the alarm is activated.  I had hoped it would be a 12V, but of course it's not because nothing is ever easy :phpbbt;

So, I need to find a way, probably via some relays of some kind, for that LED signal out of the alarm to fire up a 12V lamp.  I need to research and see what kind of voltage that LED is getting (I wanna say like 300mv), I'm wondering if I might be able to find a wedge shaped bulb of the appropriate voltage to stick in the socket...

What is the problem with your brakes anyways ?

Brakes have increased travel, don't feel as firm as they did, and the Brake light illuminates if I tap the pedal in succession 4 or 5 times.  

So...with the key off, I pressed/released the brakes 10 times.  Then turned the key on to see how long it would take for the Brake light to go out.   It's taking 8 to 9 seconds.

I replaced the accumulator (I have a few of them) and it did the same thing.

So...

B.   Turn ignition on and wait until motor shuts off.
1.   If motor doesn't self-cycle in 2 minutes without brake apply, proceed to (C).
2.   If motor does self-cycle, an internal booster leak requires replacing the Powermaster assembly.

I take it by self-cycle it means that it shuts off after it pumps the fluid back out...I'll go time it now and see what happens.