Main bearing check?

[gusszgs]

Guy can I simply pull the caps and check for wear?
I’m far from an engine guru.
I’m just concerned if I do this will I be creating issues or disturbing something?
Tia
Jim

[Steve Wood]

it can be done

[Scoobum]

Jim, have a look at a main cap or two and a couple of rod caps. You'll be able to see the crank journals as well. It'll tell the story of what that engine's been through. Don't be surprised to see the rods bearings down to copper. I haven't seen a good used engine to date when checking the bearings.

[gusszgs]

Thanks guys
I will post pics when I get into it. I’m expecting it not to purdy lol

[Scoobum]

Jim...this is a used engine I picked up last spring...and typical of what I see.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wyprc7_RdxQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cp7owFIjaa4

[wmsonta]

If the engine is out, I would check all the bearings, seals, etc. I would also check for main cap 'walk'.


As most here probably know, you can easily 'roll' out the block half main bearings. I use a soft rivet. Aluminum or copper.


All can be easily done w/o removing the crank. You can also check the crank for straight in the block. The bearing will tell what it needs, as a rule.


If you run into anything questionable, post a picture here. IMO, this forum should be able to walk you though nearly any problem.

[gusszgs]

Jim...this is a used engine I picked up last spring...and typical of what I see.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wyprc7_RdxQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cp7owFIjaa4

Thanks Brad, I will certainly post pics of what I find in there for sure. 👍

[gusszgs]

If the engine is out, I would check all the bearings, seals, etc. I would also check for main cap 'walk'.


As most here probably know, you can easily 'roll' out the block half main bearings. I use a soft rivet. Aluminum or copper.


All can be easily done w/o removing the crank. You can also check the crank for straight in the block. The bearing will tell what it needs, as a rule.


If you run into anything questionable, post a picture here. IMO, this forum should be able to walk you though nearly any problem.

Yes will do, thank you sir!

[wmsonta]

"Yes will do, thank you sir!"

No need to thank me. Like you, I intend to gain from this place. I will probably order the GN parts this month. To have them on hand for warm days this winter. I have some of my other cars waiting on parts now.

I only help mechanics, you turn your wrenches. I will help if I can. I do not tell people what to do with their money, time or effort. I tell them what I would do. I have some experience.

I have been wanting to post a picture, dunno.

[TexasT]

Nice degree wheel. I think that is similar to the one I have. I'll have to look and see. I know mine is blue. I bought a little one for my 12hp Kohler. It isn't as large.
Degreeing a cam isn't lining up the dots on the sprockets. Haha

[wmsonta]

 "Degreeing a cam isn't lining up the dots"


No.


 That was #2 of 4 sh!t Comp Cams in a row, about 4 yrs ago. I have done 3-4 CC cams since w/no issues. I heard, Tony Clements quit buying Comp over it. I quit recommending Comp.

That was/is a salvage yard 360 Magnum with 70k mi. I degree'd 2 cams, flogged an 'out of the box' set of entry level alum hds, set up the valve sprgs and set the valve train geometry. That young mans idea of a street machine is a used motor in a 1/2t Dodge short bed. Not what I would chosen. But it works well.
100% street, it leaves @ 3200-3400, shifts @ 6200. Goes 11.85, 1.75 60ft. 10-11 in idle vacuum, 13-14 mpg highway. He drives as much as a 1000 mi a month, 3k-5k a yr, for 4 yrs.

I have to resize pictures.

[earlbrown]

Just don't pull the thrust bearing cap.  That one has to be 'set' when it's installed.   The other mains and be pulled and put back when no problem.

[gusszgs]

Thanks Earl, is the thrust #2 main on these?