Front Block Cam wear?

[Forzfed]

What do you guys do to solve the problem of a billet cam wearing into the front of the block?  Earl?  Earl?  Earl?  Steve?  Brad?

[Steve Wood]

doesn't it have shims/torrington bearing to alleviate that?

[Scoobum]

Can you not use the spring and roller button?

[Grumpy]

I think he is talking about a groove in the block behind the cam.. We made a shim an never had any problems with it.

[Forzfed]

DAN, long time no hear!  Yes that is exactly what I am talking about.  I did hear of guys machining the front of the block and installing a torrington bearing as well.

[earlbrown]

Two things that are VERY important to avoid that.  First is to deburr the backside of the cam flange before installing it.   When the holes get tapped they leave a nice abrasive lip just waiting to eat into the block.

The second is to avoid HV oil pumps.   The unnecessary drag the pump generates goes right to the bevel gears on the cam sensor.  Since they're at a 45, the pump load pushed the cam against the block at the same rate.


If you have a bare block you could drill an oil passage from the load area into the oil groove of the cam bearing bore.  That would have to be done with a bare block before final cleaning though.

[Forzfed]

Thanks Earl.  I do have a HV pump on the motor when Conley's built it still.  That will be coming off.

[Forzfed]

Here is the block with the shim installed.

[Just a Six?]

That looks really good! How did they fasten it to the block? I've heard about doing this years ago (maybe from a comment Dan made years back?) but never did any research about them since I've never had the need to do it?   

[Forzfed]

Good question, Dave.  I believe it is pressed in but will find out for sure.  Earl probably knows by just looking at the pic.

[Just a Six?]

I was thinking it could be press fit but these days they must have a couple options.
It sure looks professionally done.

[earlbrown]

It's pinned in place. That's the dots at 6 and 12 o'clock.

[Forzfed]

Actually, I knew that but I just finished doing 4 nights so my memory is sketchy.  But I knew Earl would know!

[Wayner]

  Good news: Another Buick is up and running thanks to help from the Buick community. It took a fair bit of troubleshootin g (even though it didn't need to)

 The cam sensor screw which holds the metal tab into the cam sensor shaft and the hull sensor came loose. I just replaced it but used Loctite this time. 

 What is interesting is that the cam sensor stopped sensing completely which made the car not spark or injector pulse (crank sensor is what I thought). I was sure it was either a crank sensor, ign module or computer problem.

 I had the laptop hooked up to the FAST system and came up with a "cannot connect to ECM" message which pointed at the FAST system being FUBAR. Damn computer!!

 As a sidebar: I still don't have an SES light with key on and engine not running. Not sure why not but I don't care as long as the car runs!!!

  Glad I live in Victoria as there is a few weeks of summer still left.

  Thanks again for the help everyone!!!

 Go LEAFS!!

Wayner

[Just a Six?]

Excellent! 


Ever since the screw in my cam sensor wheel came loose causing a rebuild kit to be added & then my crank sensor moved a bit off centre & made a loud racket (altho still ran) I always check those 2 items. My old stock MAF days caused me a LOT of no start or poor running days as well. With these cars you need some patience & some basic trouble shooting tools along with Steve's site but having Patience is really an important part no matter how many curse words come out!  [size=78%]   [/size]