Author Topic: engine removal  (Read 2407 times)

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Offline granitestategn

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engine removal
« on: January 14 2014, 08:28:04 AM »
Quick and easy question....
I'm gonna pull the motor and trans out of the car and was wondering what the best way is to approach it. Limited headroom in my garage/basement. I have a hydraulic engine hoist. I have about 8 feet directly over the engine but the headroom drops to about 7 feet about were the header panel sits due to HVAC crap that's all boxed and drywalled in. I assume I need to pull the motor and trans separately. I would think I would remove the hood,IC and radiator first. Should I unbolt the headers from the heads first or is there room to pull the exhaust attached to the engine. What say the experts? I know some of you guys can do this in your sleep.
TIA!
87 GN, 97K, original owner, stock turbo, stock IC, 60# inj, Turbotweak 93 chip, some other odds & ends

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Offline earlbrown

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Re: engine removal
« Reply #1 on: January 14 2014, 07:02:39 PM »
If you strap it where the hook is damn near touching the upper plenum, you don't even have to take the hood shocks loose.

Just remove the crossover, starter, PS pump and A/C compressor, then pop the engine out.


If you're going to pull the engine and trans as a unit, I can't say for sure that'll work with the hood in place and with your tight quarters.
'87 GN - 4.2L SFI Turbocharged innercooled V6 - Chrome valve covers - supra pump - 14" K&N - 52mm throttlebody - rocker shaft supports -  1/2 intake spacer - TB coolant bypass - 3" ATR exhaust tip - Alum intake pipe - NOS timing cover - chip - relocated charcoal canister - CR42's - stock

Offline PacecarTA

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Re: engine removal
« Reply #2 on: January 14 2014, 08:01:50 PM »
it will come out with exhaust , need to drop starter and crossover

for hood just remove the strut plate on hood (tw bolts each) and push hood up and reinstall 1 bolt into the upper hole of the bracket and bolt it into the lower hole in the hood ,  no chance of damage to hood liner , hood or fenders and no realignment issues,  and you dont need four hands to do it
  plenty of room to pull if you keep the hook close
ive used a strap run under the intake  and tied tight against the plenum
with limited ceiling iwouldnt try to pull the trans ,

 you could always remove the wheels and lower the front end for more clearance on the header panel

Paul   Magnabuick.com ..NJ rep
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Offline granitestategn

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Re: engine removal
« Reply #3 on: January 15 2014, 09:54:03 AM »
Great tips, thanks. I may try to leave the hood on as long as I can prop it open a little more and not hit the ceiling. I have quite a few synthetic lifting straps of various lengths so I should have something that will work. I should be able to pick it by the plenum. I will probably take the radiator out so I don't accidentally damage it. I want to clean up the engine bay and take care of the surface rust on the frame rails and get it looking good. Maybe some POR15. I have a second HR mount to install when going back in with the motor. Any other things to consider while the engine and tranny will be out? I have a TV boost valve that I'm planning on putting in with my 3500 stall TCS billet 9 X 11 lock up converter. Limit GT 61 P-trim going on, too. Plus alky.....and my MAFT Pro. This thing will be so screwed up when I'm done I'll have to start from scratch just to get it running. Might be running by August at the pace I work.
87 GN, 97K, original owner, stock turbo, stock IC, 60# inj, Turbotweak 93 chip, some other odds & ends

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Offline larrym

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Re: engine removal
« Reply #4 on: January 15 2014, 05:28:41 PM »
You don't have to pull the rad and the strap under the intake works great comes out pretty level might have to pull the bumper depending on you hoist. Or put it on jack stands remove the tires and pull it from the side depending on your shop layout.
86 white T type with t tops and blackout trim. 60lb injectors Gen 2 with Extender Chip TR6 ignition 212/206 roller cam Turbonetics BB CPT 61 CAS V4 Intercooler Cobbled together Alky Injection 4 inch MAF pipe with integral sensor
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