New Member..er well sort of

[deathraider6996]

Top speed-where is the guy located?

[Steve Wood]

think what the lifespan of the engine is if some small debris makes it into the engine if the turbo freezes up when it is spinning 75,000 rpm

The speedometer cable needs greasing at a minimum.  Hopefully there will not be any frayed strands in it.

With regard to shocks, it depends on what you want.  If you want good handling, Bilsteins are the choice albeit an expensive one.  Lifetime warranty and they never seem to change in ride characteristic .  KYB is a much cheaper alternative and is the Japanese attempt to copy the Bilstein but they don't come close to comparing.  My experience is that they work okay on the strip as well.

QA1 makes some single adjusting shocks that can be softened up in one direction and I have seen some that worked pretty well for both street and drag.

Monroe and other such cheap shocks wear out very quickly and cheap is their only quality.  They are okay on the strip, I guess...but they suck on the street and get worse each month but if you are determined to be as cheap as possible and don't care about good handling or controlled ride, then hey, they are cheap.  You get what you pay for.

[Steve Wood]

Top speed-where is the guy located?

He's referring to the guy that burned up Clay's car while welding on it...

[deathraider6996]

Ah...good ole boy Brian. Yeah I like my car and would prefer not to burn it to the ground. Thanks anyways lol

I was thinking bilsteins. I'm also very big into off roading so 60 dollars a shock is prypu small especially with a warranty.

I did a little resaerch, well attempted to, about the pt51 and very mixed opinions even though I value yours higher. Someone said that the problems with these turbos in the latter years were fixed.  your opinion/facts?

[Steve Wood]

I am sure that every one did not fail but a far greater number of 51/52's failed than any other.  I was not aware that they ever admitted fault.  Heck, they never admitted fault with the budget roller cams so why would they admit fault on a turbo?  They just quit selling them because no one would buy them.

Was yours built after the so called fix?

I would not touch one no matter how cheap it was.  I believe in learning from those that went before, but, then I am old and I had plenty of time to learn from history and try not to repeat it.  Good luck with it~ 

[deathraider6996]

I'm not sure if the source of my info is even correct. I guess all I can do is hope that nothing goes wrong, as it is the only option as of now. Thanks for your help! I really appreciate it!

Oh one more question, if you don't mind, how can I tell if I need to replace the stock rear control arms. Or with what I'm putting in the car would stock be fine? If I was to upgrade I was thinking umi non adjustable. What are the gains/needs for adjustable.

[Steve Wood]

the only facts are with those of us that were around at the time that knew those with problems.  TB.com wiped out the facts as they were posted because one does not speak badly of a paying vendor's products in that venue.  Probably a few comments on tbs but it was never that well inhabited.

There is very little benefit in replacing the lowers and probably none in replacing the uppers.  The lower arms are under compression during launch so they could, in theory, bend if the traction was good enuf and the car was making plenty of power.  I suspect the benefit would come more from replacing the factory bushings with new ones and, at that time, one could box the open side for added rigidity.  the factory bushings are 26-27 years old and probably should have been replaced about 17 years ago.  Poly bushing don't provide much compliance and this could hurt the handling a bit because the control arms do not have a common center that they rotate about so if there is much suspension movement, they can cause a bind.  In normal practice, there is probably not much to be lost.  Paul posted his thoughts on the matter and believes that side to side movement is more restricted than front to rear.  Bushing on the uppers would suffice.

Control arms are one of those things that everyone says you should replace but you never see anyone do an honest before and after on.  Kinda like downpipes on twelve second cars...

[deathraider6996]

Alright so I will replace the upper control bushings. I should either weld the stock lowers to box them or should I just buy boxed new ones. If I don't buy new ill also replace the lower bushings. Would you think poly would be better for launching or just all around better to go with another option. TIA

[deathraider6996]

If I was to buy new lowers, would tubular or boxed be the best option.

[Steve Wood]

I think rubber is better, but, then, I don't believe what I read in ads.

There is no difference, practically, between round and square.  Most I see are square or rectangular these days.  Pretty sure that any aftermarket will be poly bushings