Stock Timing Chain

[Hill1430]

Can someone point me in the direction of where to find a stock style timing chain and gear set? Also for those with more knowledge than me, do you recommend cork or rubber gaskets for valve covers and oil pan gaskets? Not doing a rebuild, just fixing all the oil leaks and installing new valve spring I purchased from Kirban. Any help is appreciated.

[ULYCYC]

Melling timing set 3-359SB
Melling tensioner   BD44
Melling cam button CB100

As for gaskets a clean surface and true no bends any gasket will work if not over torqued.  I used both types without issues

[Hill1430]

Thank You!

[Steve Wood]

As Ed said, not too tight on the valve covers

Factory says 44 INCH pounds...   very little! 

[Hill1430]

Yes, Thank You Steve. I downloaded the service manual like you advised. Now I have to get an inch/pounds torque wrench.

[ULYCYC]

If you need a in/lb torque wrench for other projects then buy it. But just to install valve covers then save your money. Use a stubby 1/4" ratchet or nut driver handle and make them snug. It's hard to over-tighten unless you have gorilla hands. Also in/lb torque wrenches are very inaccurate unless you buy a good one, that will cost more than your timing gear set.,

[Hill1430]

What should I use to lubricate the chain and oil pump gears as it will be a while before I start the car? Also due to the fact that it will sit for a while, I was thinking I should fill with oil and prime the engine, yes or no?

[Steve Wood]

Everyone probably has a different suggestion for this one   I never really thought of this condition.

I would soak the timing chain in engine oil for awhile to make sure it got oil everywhere.  I would coat the gears with engine assembly lube.  I would pour some engine break in oil back down the coil cooler outlet line to fill the pump cavity and fill the the engine with engine break in oil such as Joe Gibbs break in oil (several companies make break in oil) and then I would prime the engine thoroughly coat the oil passages, etc to minimize the possibility of internal rust with time.  I would use engine break in oil even if a roller cam in this case to minimize any engine wear due to a "dry" spot some where within the engine upon actual start.

I would never use an engine break in supplement on a new engine now that chemically balanced engine break in oils are available from reputable oil dealers.

[ULYCYC]

I agree with everything Steve said. I would only add, pull the cam sensor and prime the pump and get some oil pressure up before you start the motor. It's a must do, if the motor will lay dormant for months

[Hill1430]

Appreciate the response guys. Would I need the break in oil even though the engine has not been taken apart? What tool does everyone use the spin the gears in the pump besides a 1/2” drill?

[Steve Wood]

If no new cam was installed and the engine has been just sitting and waiting on you, then probably not particularly if you did not install new, higher pressure valve springs.

A good 1/2" drill is the only way that I can think of outside of spinning it on the starter.  Be sure to fill the pump thru the coolant hose as this will greatly speed up the priming process and reduce wear on the grears, etc.

[Hill1430]

Thanks Steve!