Procedure of replacing rear end both upper and lower control arms bushings

[Steve Wood]

When it doubt, go by the shop manual...excep t when it comes to the intake manifold LOL

[gnonyx]

When it doubt, go by the shop manual...excep t when it comes to the intake manifold LOL

Hi Steve, Is there something about the intake manifold that is different than what TR mechanics uses?
Also you weren't kidding about removing the upper control arm bolt that is behind the brake line, what a PIA trying to remove the nut. The Driver side was okay even with the brake line in the way, but the pass. side there is a fat round rubber tubing that covers the brake line and in the way of removing the nut or even trying to put a wrench; and yes I finally removed the nut.
Now the fun part comes when torqueing all bolts and nuts to specs, with all wheels on ground. This part is where a garage lift high in the air comes in handy.

[Steve Wood]

I stuck something behind the rubber protector and held the line out a bit as I recall.  The key to working on cars is to not let the car overstress you.  It often requires a little zen LOL

The manual lists 45 lb-ft.  That is a lot of torque on a 3/8" bolt and it is common for either the bolt to break or to strip the threads if going for the full 45 listed.

The factory used 25 to 40.  I see most people use 32 these days from the various posts.  I always aimed for 30 altho to be honest, I seldom try to use a torque wrench because a number of the bolts are hard to get to.  I use a box end and aim for what feels like 30 to me.  It does not take much pressure to compress the gasket enuf to seal.  Things like the rear end and suspension, I do the same.  Larger bolts take a little more pull than small.

I use a torque wrench on oil pan bolts, transmission pan bolts, head bolts, rocker arms, etc where things are either easier to break or absolutely critical to prevent leaks and so on.

[ULYCYC]

To add to what Steve said. Torque values were based on hardware made years ago. The garbage around today regardless of grade will fail if over tightened. If the original hardware is still good, clean it up and use it. Much better then what came with the new parts.

[gnonyx]

Hi All,
Finally I'm in the last process of replacing the rear end both upper and lower bushings, and now I have to place all 4 wheels on the car rams as if was on normal ground in order to tighten the bolts to 70#.
Can someone tell me what is the toque for the rear swaybar bolts?
Thanks

[Steve Wood]

Manual says 35 ftlbs

[gnonyx]

Manual says 35 ftlbs

Thanks Steve, I finally going to finish with the rear end bushings, as I was going to be done with it, but one of the upper bolt was tight, and the worst happen, the socket slip and my right hand knuckles got smashed really bad to the point I though I broke my knuckles.
I did wore gloves, but they were light since I had to get my hands in a tight space on the upper bushing nuts

[Steve Wood]

That hurts ñ

[gnonyx]

Hi Steve, GOOD NEWS
I finally finished with the front and rear ball joints, upper, lower bushings, and both all coil springs replacement.
The last thing I want to do is to replace the rear end axle fluids, and I save ALL OF MY KNUCKLES
Thanks again for all of your help, I really do appreciate it.

[Steve Wood]

You are welcome! You put in a lot of work!

[gnonyx]

You are welcome! You put in a lot of work!

Hi Steve, I have another question for you
I read there are many type of rear axle GM fluids as I did found out the Limited Slip Axle Fluid # 1052358 or as now
10-4003  -  4oz.
The Axle Lubricant fluid is 4.25 pt., but the old GM#1052271 is now GM ACDelco 80W-90 GL5 Axle Gear Oil #89021669 or is it ACDelco 10-4099 75W-90 Gear Oil #88861719
Thanks

[Steve Wood]

I doubt it makes a difference.

Me, I would go to the parts store and buy Valvoline 75-90 or any other name brand.  I think some may come with the limited slip already in the oil..so I would read the bottle and be sure it does not include the additive, or if you see one that does have it, then don't add anymore to the mix....

[gnonyx]

I doubt it makes a difference.

Me, I would go to the parts store and buy Valvoline 75-90 or any other name brand.  I think some may come with the limited slip already in the oil..so I would read the bottle and be sure it does not include the additive, or if you see one that does have it, then don't add anymore to the mix....

Thanks Steve, I found the Valvoline 75-90 with slip additive added