Got some star wheels

[TexasT]

So, I bought these star wheels a while back(OK like 2003 or so) and I want to put them on the car. A buddy offered up his 255/60-15 drag radials so I was gonna get em mounted and balanced. This leads to needing what I guess is some longer wheel studs. As you can see by the attached pic the studs don't extend past the face of the wheel as they need to per the nhra.
I know I should just buy the moser 8522 and keep going but I found these "less expensive" ones. About $15 less for the set. Yeah, i'm cheap.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/55mm-Long-Extended-Wheel-Stud-For-Hyundai-Santa-Fe-m12x1-5-Knurl-13mm-Year-2017/183726326069?_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.DEFAULT%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20190129125700%26meid%3D7e11976a07274646aa46fda519e93e51%26pid%3D100752%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D183750103763%26itm%3D183726326069&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982

Will the 13.1mm shank press in where the stock studs were? Looks like the stock is 12.73mm/0.501" and this unit is a bit larger(according to the rockauto spec).


The moser ones for comparison.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-8255/overview/


And I guess a bigger question becomes are either of these choices long enough to get the stud past the face of the wheel with the washer in place?

[nocooler]

I don't think the ebay ones are long enough. I ran 3" studs in my T-type. Without a spacer I think 2.5" is going to be in the ballpark

[Tim Hensley]

.501 to .516 is not much but when your pushing it in a hole that’s a lot

[TexasT]

I'll get the wheels out and measure the thickness from the back to the front. I think if the 2.5" would work, the 2.81 should too. Then the holes in the axle becomes the sticking point. I will see about a trip over to our local summit racing outlet and see about the Moser 2.5" 8522 units.

Next fun comes with the pushing the stockers out and pulling the new ones in. Stack of washers and an impact should work I guess. And a bfh to get them out.  Anyone have some pointers?

[nocooler]

The 3” ones you need to pull the axle.

[Tim Hensley]

My OTC ball joint tool  just fit,I think I removed the shoes

[wmsonta]

IMO, anybody anticipating short times in the 1.50's or quicker should not use 'spline shank style' wheel studs.
Some drill and tap their axle flanges for high grade Allen head bolts. The hardware is then cheap, the machine shop not so much. This makes sense with 9" stuff, where oem 31 spline axles are shortened/resplined, etc.
Somewhere around 11.0, I lose my interest in oem GM rears. There will always be those who cite exceptions.The re will always be reasons why they are (exceptions).
I do not care about the fronts. Nobody wants my opinions on c-clips.

Again, IMO.

[TexasT]

Went out to Dallas for a meal with some of the people, and my buddy brought the tires along. He has new and I mentioned I be interested in the old. So here we are.


A pic of just how short the stockers are.

Downside to the longer studs is I can't go back to the stock lug nuts. But I went ahead and bought a set of open ones that should work with the stock wheels. Next conundrum is maybe I should just have these mounted on a stock pair of T wheels. I have several and this would keep me with the stock lugs n studs.

I do like the idea of the tap the axle flange and screw in some Allen cap screws. Might be an option. Might even spring for a nice set of axles and just swap em out.

 Decisions, decisions...

[nocooler]

Rich if your lugs are stock Buick lugs and old and crappy looking, start them by hand and then run them down with an impact they will magically self clearance.

[wmsonta]

 "I do like the idea of the tap the axle flange and screw in some Allen cap screws."

I would price the machine shop first. If real money, I would consider different axles. Most 10 & 12 bolt GM axles were weak, dependent on how hard the hit. If I was to choose axles, I would definitely buy the Ford ends. They are dirt cheap and, IMO, far superior to the c-clip eliminator kits. The axle supplier should be able to clear up things like backing plate mods, everything else. I believe the GN to have 30 spline axles. I would probably buy 30 spline replacements unless I got to dreaming or could run wild times.

Just me though. No one knows your situation better than you. 
 

[TexasT]

28 spline on a stock tr rear. Probably wouldn't hurt to do a 30 spline setup, but if I do that it hurts the fundage and I'm not going that qwick just yet.

[nocooler]

Put them on a spare set of t wheels. It saves head aches all around.
Do you have the matching star fronts?

[wmsonta]

28 spline on a stock tr rear. Probably wouldn't hurt to do a 30 spline setup, but if I do that it hurts the fundage and I'm not going that qwick just yet.

Based on this info, you could just buy hardware.
If the pictures work, this is another of my clunkers. Vintage Cragar slots w/manufacturer hardware.
Well, the pictures worked. The tracks I frequent, this would work until (from memory) 12.90. They have thread engagement probably 1 1/2 X the stud diameter.
edit-yeah, forget this. I do not mess with NHRA, but I just researched the rules. They are saying ALL cars. No break for oem stocker's and I did not find any min stud diameter for the fast cars. Things change.

[TexasT]

I do have a 15x3.5 pair for the front. I also have a set of open lugs for some stock wheels, open lugs and washers for the pro stars, and several T wheels. Along with a pair of cragar ss/t wheels with some old drag dot tires of some sort, that are too old to try, and a pair of m/t 28x9 slicks that are also too old to try .

I guess at this point ill just dig up a pair of T wheels and get them mounted and balanced. Just seems way easier for now. Crazy how this stuff just seems to spiral out of control. I know when the car was relatively new I had a pair of weld super lites, with some m&h g60-15 I used to run. I don't remember the lugs being too short back then. Just bolted em on and made passes .
&h