Cannot help you with the tranny.
Cruise control troubleshootin g is on my site, I believe.
Check the crank sensor for clearance on both sides on all three blades. Crank the car, get under it and watch the balancer to see it is wobbling while running..also have someone blip the throttle a few times while watching to see if the balancer moves forward or backward much.
Be sure the cam sensor is set properly and not 180 degs out.
Ohm the coil packs to see if they all look okay.
Look at the vacuum and see if it is not only where it should be at idle but also that it is steady and not jumping around. If the needle is jumping around, check for vacuum leaks. If you don't find one, start disconnecting one injector clip at a time and see if the idle slows down each time you pull the connector. If you disconnect a connector and the idle does not drop, you have a cylinder that is not firing and you need to find out why. If you have two cylinders that do not affect anything and they are on the same coil pack, then you have a coil or module problem....
Make sure there is no leakage around the base of the egr valve when it is running. Also lift the diaphragm up with your fingers from the bottom and see if it runs very badly and then let it go to see it goes back to a steady idle. Do this before it gets too hot.
Check the compression on all cylinders. Disconnect the cam sensor, remove all plugs, install the gauge, hold the gas pedal on the floor and crank the engine over about ten blips. Write the compression reading down...do for all cylinders and compare. I like to run the engine a few seconds before I start testing to be sure there is a little oil on the cylinder walls for better sealing but not long enuf to burn myself too much.
When you pull the plugs, check all for proper appearance and no oil coating, no wet fuel on them, and signs they have been firing.
Obviously be sure the tps is set properly, the maf readings are correct, and the O2s are right before you get too far a long
