Author Topic: Engine break in  (Read 3171 times)

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Offline YGspider

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Engine break in
« on: December 05 2013, 03:47:22 PM »
So .. I've read lots of different things all over the place and most people say a hard break in is the best way to break in a new engine. pulling through the rpm bands in each gear and then motor breaking the car back down to speed. repeating this process at least 9 times. Changing the oil and off you go? I guess the reason for the hard break in is to seat the pistons rings properly as a soft break in at constant rpms will make the rings seat wrong and the engine will have blow by until you need to rebuild it next season from a shity break in.

I want to know what you guys think.
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Offline earlbrown

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Re: Engine break in
« Reply #1 on: December 05 2013, 04:07:51 PM »
I think pretty much what you posted.

The only factor is what cam you have.   If you have a flat tappet, you have to do all the voodoo, animal sacrifices, and long stationary run-in.

If you have a roller, point the car at the road, fire it up, verify everything looks good, slam the hood, and drive it ASAFP.
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Offline YGspider

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Re: Engine break in
« Reply #2 on: December 05 2013, 04:54:53 PM »
I have a roller. The question I forgot to ask is all these tads of info I found make no indications of a turbo motor. Should I leave the boost at 0 psi for the break in.
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Offline earlbrown

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Re: Engine break in
« Reply #3 on: December 05 2013, 05:09:03 PM »
Not really.   0 PSI is close to the same as WOT on a N/A.   The only difference is that most turbo builds have lower static compression than a N/A.


The ring seating procedure isn't that exact of a science. The ring has no idea what the boost gauge is reading.   All you want to do is make sure you put the ring face against the cylinder wall so they can become friends.  And it's just as important to back off the gas so they can cool off a little.

As long as your machinist honed the cylinders to the correct grit finish to match the rings, the bedding in procedure will happen pretty rapidly.

Then change the oil, and treat it like it's a ginger.
'87 GN - 4.2L SFI Turbocharged innercooled V6 - Chrome valve covers - supra pump - 14" K&N - 52mm throttlebody - rocker shaft supports -  1/2 intake spacer - TB coolant bypass - 3" ATR exhaust tip - Alum intake pipe - NOS timing cover - chip - relocated charcoal canister - CR42's - stock

Offline Scoobum

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Re: Engine break in
« Reply #4 on: December 05 2013, 07:02:11 PM »
Broke the flat tappet cam in on mine...and changed the oil and filter. Break in procedure complete. Now it's off to the track to let the beatings begin.
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Offline YGspider

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Re: Engine break in
« Reply #5 on: December 06 2013, 12:55:42 AM »
Thanks guys, I really didn't believe the whole be easy on it for 1000 miles thing from the start but its good to get some real world experience on the matter.
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