replaced A/C condenser, what next?

[Steve Wood]

I thought surface area was what denoted size?

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[Charlief1]

I thought surface area was what denoted size?

Each tube is a honey comb Steve. If you looked at a cross section you'd see what I mean. The tubes are joined next to each other so the actual surface area is increased.

[GavinHunyady]

Is there anything to consider to evacuate the system or anything?

[tb3]

used the Ford blue orifice tube with a 134 conversion on a tb once and it worked great

[Charlief1]

Is there anything to consider to evacuate the system or anything?

The system will need to be sucked down for at least 1 hour. To check for leaks suck it down until it's holding 30" of vacuum, then close the gauges off, turn the pump off, and let it sit for 15 minutes to see if it holds. If it holds then turn the pump back on and open the gauges to continue sucking it down. 1 hour is the minimum but the longer the better. Once it's finished sucking then charge it up until it won't take any more refridgerant. Then start the car and continue charging until you get the low pressure to the 35-40 PSI level. Keep an eye on both gauges so you know what both are doing. High side will be much higher than the R-12 but it should never peg the gauge.

[GavinHunyady]

uhh... I'm obviously not an HVAC tech, what tools are needed to do this?

[Charlief1]

uhh... I'm obviously not an HVAC tech, what tools are needed to do this?

A/C gauges, suction pump, picks that will help with getting the o rings on and off, various wrenches for the fittings, ratchet and sockets in various sizes, a small set of forceps or long thin needle nose pliers (forceps work best), PAG oil, R- 134, and enough time to do the work.

[GavinHunyady]

a/c gauges and suction pump was what I was looking for... is there a specific "suction pump"

[Charlief1]

Is there a specific "suction pump"

Not really. The higher CFM rating will suck harder, just like one of my old girlfriends, but you can "borrow" one from auto zone and return it if you don't want to keep it. If you want one to keep, harbor freight has one that's reasonable.

[TexasT]

used the Ford blue orifice tube with a 134 conversion on a tb once and it worked great

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1978/ford/f150/climate_control/a-fs-c_orifice_tube.html

This one?

[Top Speed]

I love the discussion over a $1.98 part.  Great info - and I am not being sarcastic.

[TexasT]

That $2 part could be what makes it all happen. It is a variable something, and Steve mentioned he uses a variable orfice piece. The one delco part that I have researched is like $20 and it seems won't work as well went switching from r12.

[earlbrown]

Actually that part is what makes it all happen.  The orifice tube is the 'bottleneck' in the loop.   Blowing through it causes a severe pressure drop with = 'coolth'.