eliminating knock possibilities

[phil_long]

Hello gents, I'm still chasing down this false KR that I've been getting, and I'm looking for the most effective way to track it down.  I've read a check list of how to find false knock, and I seen on that list oil in the intake tract.  Well, my stock turbo IS passing oil, and it has been for a while.  So would I be wasting time attempting every other method until I get this taken care of?  I was told that the turbo spitting oil will drive the knock sensor crazy. is this accurate?  Class is in session

[Steve Wood]

oil causes real detonation, not false.

You put a new motor mount on the drivers side yet?

[phil_long]

Oh damn, I didn't know that Steve.  I haven't done the motor mounts yet, looking at next week or the following week.  Wedding anniversary coming up soon.  I believe the motor mount is a huge issue as the KR happens when I'm not in boost as well.  Im afraid for the worst though, because there's been a slight tap when the car is first started that seems to reside as the car warms up.  I moved a couple of tranny cooler lines around that I thought could be the issue

[Steve Wood]

when you get older, you won't hear those noises and life is good!

[phil_long]

So that means older people are more of a danger to TR's?  Lol

[Scoobum]

If it's a lifter noise that goes away after warm up I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. I used a set of CC lifters in this engine...and they sound like effen hammers on startup. I learned to ignore it. I'm sure Chris Garret would have a coronary if he heard it.

[phil_long]

Lol!!!  I haven't heard or seen Chris on the board for some time.  I'll try and ignore it.  I just thought that since I heard it, the knock sensor heard it(sometimes Im in a rush and drive off with the car cold).  I'll report back after the motor mount install.  Im guessing after that I should start shopping around for a turbo.

[Scoobum]

Easiest way I found for changing the engine mounts is pulling the tire and going through the wheel well at it. If memory serves you'll need a swivel. Chris sold his car. I actually talked to him a few times on the phone...he always very gracious.

[Steve Wood]

It's probably the drivers side that is bad.  Jack it up, put a jack stand under the hood.  Pull the wheel off.  Put a board on top of your jack and put it under the engine pan with just a touch of pressure on the jack.

If you then don't have a direct shot at the three bolts on the mount to the block, you can often just jack up the control arm a tad to see them. Remove the three bolts.  You can use the jack to do this before putting it under the pan to keep the engine from sliding down when you are removing the mount.

crawl under the car and move the nut off the cross bolt thru the mount and engine bracket.  If the bolt moves freely, pull it out.  Or adjust the jack under the pan slightly till it is loose. (takes a little stretching to put a box end on the end of the cross bolt while you remove the nut on the other end.

Pull the mount out and install the new one in reverse order.