In this case, he has no spark as per his observations.. .spark comes from the crank sensor to the module to the ecm. He proved the module was good by using the casper coil/module tool. But, this does not prove the connectors are good because it uses its own connector and power source.
As Dan suggested, it is always a good idea to recheck the crank sensor to make sure the blades are passing thru the proper slot and to also be sure it did not get bumped out of alignment during the engine reinstall. Then history tells us that it is not uncommon for pins to get bent in the connectors, or pushed back out of the connector so that is worth verifying along with the fuses involved in the circuitry. I think it is lesson common for the ecm to be bad at this point and a properly behaving check engine lite that is not dim or blinking is a good sign in some cases.
If the ignition has spark but will not start, and you don't have a noid light, you can spray some carb cleaner into the throttlebody and then crank it over. If it runs for a moment, pops, bangs, etc, then you can check fuel pressure. If it has enuf fp, then you can pretty much assume you have a problem associated with the cam sensor. Simply not being set correctly will still produce backfires if it is putting out a signal. If it does nothing, then you can look for a deeper problem.
Some Chinese dude is credited with saying, "Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he can eat for life."
That is the reason I try to get people to understand how stuff works instead of simply saying check this. I am sure it is irritating, but that's just me, I guess.
