Progress on the GN! Heads/Lifter/installed

[Just a Six?]

As soon as there are no leaks just foot brake until you get a couple lbs of boost. Then keep it under 10 lbs boost for a couple blips down the road. That's how my machine shop told me to do it.

[earlbrown]

Damn that's a lot of moly!   During the first oil change I'd probably drop the pan and clean out the layer of that stuff that's going to be on the bottom of the pan.

When I built my engine last year I used the minimal amount of moly on my ARP head washers and main studs. When I pulled the engine two months ago to upgrade the head gaskets and inspect the bottom end the pan was covered in that goop. Took almost a whole can of parts cleaner to get my pan cleaned out.

Normally I wouldn't worry about a lubricant laying in the pan but moly molecules are large enough to get caught by the oil filter and put it into bypass. Not what you want when work hardening 12 cam lobes and tappets!

[Steve Wood]

Which is the reason we always changed the oil right after break in...for fear that the moly and the EOS would restrict the filter.

As far as break in goes, this article is precisely the reason that race engines are broken in on a dyno...unfortu nately, with a flat tappet cam, all the break in of the rings probably occurred during that no load conditions.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

In the very old days, we were always taught to drive them during break in like we were going to drive the car later...the fastest cars were always the ones that were driven off the dealers floor and stood on....the same with our race engines, put them together and take them out and immediately drive the heck out of them.  If it ain't leaking oil, gas, or coolant, it is ready to go.

[SuperSix]

Damn that's a lot of moly!   During the first oil change I'd probably drop the pan and clean out the layer of that stuff that's going to be on the bottom of the pan.

When I built my engine last year I used the minimal amount of moly on my ARP head washers and main studs. When I pulled the engine two months ago to upgrade the head gaskets and inspect the bottom end the pan was covered in that goop. Took almost a whole can of parts cleaner to get my pan cleaned out.

Normally I wouldn't worry about a lubricant laying in the pan but moly molecules are large enough to get caught by the oil filter and put it into bypass. Not what you want when work hardening 12 cam lobes and tappets!

I didn't put it on THAT heavy, but turning the engine over made it accumulate on the lobes. I am using Joe Gibbs break in oil - and plan to change the oil a few times right out of the box.

Thanks  for the link Steve. I hear to break in the cam the motor should be run at ~2k RPM for 20-30 minutes?

[Steve Wood]

I always run it a bit faster..maybe 2400 rpm, or thereabout.  I also blip the throttle a little every couple of minutes.  The whole idea is to try to splash plenty of oil on the lobes while spinning the lifters as quickly as possible...by blip, I mean to about 3000 rpm altho I don't look at the tach, or such...just blip it a little.

I really like the Joe Gibbs, and, I would change the filter, but, leave the oil in there otherwise for about 700 miles as extra insurance.

[SuperSix]

I always run it a bit faster..maybe 2400 rpm, or thereabout.  I also blip the throttle a little every couple of minutes.  The whole idea is to try to splash plenty of oil on the lobes while spinning the lifters as quickly as possible...by blip, I mean to about 3000 rpm altho I don't look at the tach, or such...just blip it a little.

I really like the Joe Gibbs, and, I would change the filter, but, leave the oil in there otherwise for about 700 miles as extra insurance.

I have 10 qts of it - maybe first change at 20-30 miles, oil and filter, then ~700 on the 2nd fill?

[Steve Wood]

seems like a waste of good oil to me...but, if you feel good about it, why not?

[Charlief1]

You could always save the oil and put it in your lawn mower Mark. 20 or so minutes wouldn't hurt it for that I would think.