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Messages - deathraider6996
1
« on: October 28 2016, 12:20:53 AM »
Sorry guys. Been away dealing with moving to florida from arizona and not wanting to deal with the car. With the great help of Steve, we were able to get her running. Runs like a dream. Boost builds ridiculously fast. Faster than ever. Jumps from 0-18 in under 1.5 seconds. Thanks everyone for your help. I really appreciate it.
Btw I've been getting on Supersix about how he's completely dropped the ball on his build. He says now that I am hear that he's probably going to have me get his going for him.
Once again, thanks guys!
2
« on: August 05 2016, 11:10:11 AM »
Check the CCCU fuse
All fuses under the dash are good. Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
3
« on: August 05 2016, 11:09:49 AM »
That sucks but don't set it on fire because I know it sure is tempting at times! 
Did you get the bulb working again?
No, not yet. Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
4
« on: August 05 2016, 11:09:21 AM »
Check Steves site. He likely has a no start 'tree'. Be patient...and go through the checks.
Yep, he's been very helpful. We're down to crank sensor or ignition module Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
5
« on: August 05 2016, 11:08:33 AM »
Does it have fuel pressure?
Yes, it's at 40 Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
6
« on: August 01 2016, 03:39:29 PM »
So, it's been awhile since the last update. I bought a starter from Earl. Had some issues but they were my fault. Got her started up. Ran her for 30 min at 2500-3000rpm. Everything was good. No leaks, all pushrods spun. Turned her off for a couple minutes to get her ready to take out for her maiden voyage. She won't start back up. No ses light when the key is in the on position but traced it back to what is most likely a bad bulb. No spark and no injector pulse which leads me to believe that it's the ignition module or the crank sensor and last possibly the ecm.
7
« on: June 21 2016, 06:43:28 PM »
This is the one I bought. I even double checked with charlie.    Oh well, mistakes happen. Anyone have a v8 and want a new mini starter?
8
« on: June 21 2016, 12:10:54 AM »
Well, Earl to the rescue. 
9
« on: June 20 2016, 10:58:51 PM »
Well, got everything ready. All I had to do was hook up the starter remote wire, plug in the battery, do all precautionary checks and start her up. That was until the fucking piece of shut remote stud on the starter decided to break off. Now I have to either replace the starter, or fix it. The starter that Charlie said would be fine as a mini starter was not close to the flex plate by any means so the stocker was in there.
I also need to repair some drywall
Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
10
« on: June 20 2016, 03:26:41 PM »
11
« on: June 19 2016, 02:34:35 AM »
Alright guys. It's been a long process but I think the time has come to drop the motor in, and probably by the end of day tomorrow have it running.
I just sat out in the garage staring at it for an hour while checking every bolt I could access.
I rented a oil pump primer from autozone. Didn't hook it up to and oil pressure gauge as mine aren't mechanical and I'll just do that when I have all the connections hooked up.
Anyone want to type up a checklist for before startup? If not, that's fine. I know that's a lot to type. All I've really got to do to the motor is throw the flex plate on and torque it down, prime it one more time, and set the cam sensor.
Any advice is welcome! Thanks guys for all the help you have given me.
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12
« on: June 19 2016, 02:26:05 AM »
The Autometer trans temp simply has a brass tee. I just plumbed it into the rubber line for the B and M transcooler I have.
I'm going to definitely do that. I've got all these gauges, might as well have at least 1 for the transmission. Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
13
« on: June 19 2016, 02:25:18 AM »
survives much higher temperatures so you can get things loose easier afer it has been heat soaked for a few years
So, couldn't find nickel, but I found aluminum and it's rated up to 1800 iirc. I used that. Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
14
« on: June 18 2016, 02:15:01 AM »
Like Steve said. If you're racing I'd recommend a trans temp gauge. Heat is the number one killer of transmissions. ..and it skyrockets when you put the trans up against the footbrake. It's gotten to the point where I let the other guy fully stage first...before I fully stage. Keeps the heat down.
I'll have to see how I can plumb that into the cooler system. Not quite sure. 20$ later  Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
15
« on: June 16 2016, 02:04:15 AM »
So did a little work on the car. Installed caspers upgraded positive cable with relocated fuse links. Caspers ground relocation Knock sensor connector Oil light connector Fan relay connectors and relays Fun stuff. Haven't touched the turbo. I'm giving it the silent treatment. I'll probably remove it tomorrow and bring it to a shop on friday. Ordered the stainless braided lines and an fittings for the transmission cooler today. A bit more expensive than originally though but oh well. I have a 12 x 12 b&m(?) Trans cooler. That size should suffice, correct? Any justifiable reason to go bigger? 
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