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Messages - phagen28
1
« on: September 07 2020, 02:30:45 PM »
I have something here that I have never noticed before. My battery recently went dead while sitting. To check for a draw just to be sure, I checked with a test light from Neg cable to the neg. battery and light lit. Next I used my multi meter in the same position and got 14MA draw that way. I have read here and believe that is an acceptable amt of draw, but I just now noticed that when i touch the neg cable to the battery I get 1 single "Ding" that comes either from the headlight switch or that immediate area.I have never noticed this before but wonder now if my headlight switch might be a problem or if this is normal.
2
« on: July 11 2020, 09:09:26 PM »
I'm not sure Steve. When it started the SM worked as it always did.I did hard wire the SM directly to the back of it and a good ground. My intent is to run it some and then check it for any newly stored codes. I will be back after I do that. Thanks again!
3
« on: July 11 2020, 11:17:48 AM »
Ok I got the pump, dropped the tank and put in the new pump. started right up and runs fine. thanks for your help! I always know where to look...here!
4
« on: June 30 2020, 09:35:48 PM »
thanks for the help guys. i ordered a new pump and will have it in a couple days then i can put in in. in the meantime i'll hard wire the SM. i will reprt back as to how i make out with the pump and not starting.
5
« on: June 30 2020, 05:35:23 PM »
ok so I tried it jumping off the gray test lead and had no noise from the pump. i unplugged everything with regard to the hotwire kit and plugged the factory plugs back together at the tank still no pumping,reconnected hotwire kit then i went to the hotwire relay with test light and had power at the heavy power wire and power coming out of the small red wire that goes to the pump with the key in the on pos and the test light went off after about 2 sec.this was again in normal operation with the key and not any jumper from the gray lead. so i'm pretty sure from what i know thru the testing i've done, I'd say that my couple year old pump might have gone bad. do you agree or is there something else i should check?
6
« on: June 30 2020, 03:49:16 PM »
followed instruction to test and with key on no noise from pump. applied power to gray wire that is below alt to manually get power to the back of the car and when i touch it to 12v it causes the hot wire relay ( this has a hot wire kit and 340 pump installed about 3yrs ago) to click but thats it.
7
« on: June 30 2020, 02:59:05 PM »
NO fuel pressure. I will replace the fuel filter, when i removed the schrader valve to put on my fuel pressure gauge there was no pressure behind it and nothing came out. I am confused though as to the relationship between the lack of fuel and the scanmaster not giving any reading at all. then like i said previously it would read 2.1 and start.
8
« on: June 30 2020, 12:17:27 PM »
I unhooked the ScanMaster and didnt start. with key in the on position and ScanMaster still disconnected, the check engine light is on and steady but no start.I have checked all fuses in the fuse box under the dash and all were good. battery is also fully charged. this has a Turbo Tweak chip, is it possible that a chip just goes bad? or the ECU that its in?
9
« on: June 29 2020, 09:54:49 PM »
I tried as I might to search this problem but didnt find anything. This year when I brought car out after the winter,it started then stalled. scan master displayed only dashes---------.I did do some searching online and someone said unhook the orange wire at the battery, remove the ECU and the chip to check connections. did that, put it back together and at 1st it was the same, i left it alone (discouraged) came back to it and turned key on and Scanmaster said 2.1 and it started. Seemed like maybe a connection was dirty and it was corrected. Now today I started the car to go for a little ride and got only up the rd and it stalled like I shut it off with the key.Now when I turn the key on it is back to just dashes from the Scanmaster, but now sometime it goes to display 2.1 then changes to dashes and still wont start.It just cranks over. I am not really sure where to go with this,now any help would be appreciated. thanks [size=0.85em][/size] [size=0.85em][/size]
10
« on: June 29 2020, 09:49:20 PM »
I tried as I might to search this problem but didnt find anything. This year when I brought car out after the winter,it started then stalled. scan master displayed only dashes---------.I did do some searching online and someone said unhook the orange wire at the battery, remove the ECU and the chip to check connections. did that, put it back together and at 1st it was the same, i left it alone (discouraged) came back to it and turned key on and Scanmaster said 2.1 and it started. Seemed like maybe a connection was dirty and it was corrected. Now today I started the car to go for a little ride and got only up the rd and it stalled like I shut it off with the key.Now when I turn the key on it is back to just dashes from the Scanmaster, but now sometime it goes to display 2.1 then changes to dashes and still wont start.It just cranks over. I am not really sure where to go with this,now any help would be appreciated.
thanks
11
« on: July 17 2018, 10:27:04 PM »
thank you so much for the quick reply, but since very little is identified in the picture. Is it the box to the right of the column area that is labeled convenience center?
12
« on: July 17 2018, 10:01:11 PM »
I have had a look at an old post (2014) about the chime on 87 Grand National for key in ignition and lights left on. It was said to fight your way under and behind the dash. 2 questions... if I understand does the same box operate the chime for when the key is in and when the lights are left on? 2nd quest...what color and approx size is the box(chime)?thank you for any help anyone can be with this
13
« on: July 19 2014, 10:24:07 PM »
I am trying to find out what the seat belt guides screw into(inside the headrest) I'm trying to install a set of guides, as my car 87 GN was missing them when I got it. It doesn't seem like they can just be screwed into the foam of the headrest cause it wont tighten up.
14
« on: September 03 2012, 03:55:49 PM »
yes sir, i pulled out the blower mtr first to look inside and then according to your instructions on your site for taking the top of the ac box off i did that too and was able to view the entire outside of the ac box.
15
« on: September 03 2012, 09:28:31 AM »
no i dont. I was just blowing the air into all of the vents thinking if there was a nest in there, some sort of debris, even small pcs would come out somewhere.
I'm pretty sure that point of entry was through the a/c drain flap because it was stuck wide open against the top of the inner fender.
is there such a diagram that would show the duct work and routing
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