This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - William Brophy
1
« on: June 01 2013, 07:01:16 PM »
I removed my vapor canister, and at the hard line end located on the side of the frame rail that goes back to the fuel tank from the canister I installed a 90 degree fitting which connects to the hard line with a short rubber hose to point down towards the ground so no dirt can plug it. I thought about using a fuel filter at the end of that hard line but decided against it. The electrical connection to the vapor canister I just tucked away somewhere if I remember correctly.
I am sure someone on here can tell you why the vapor canister filled with fuel and if I got the electrical part right if you want to remove the vapor canister.
One thing you can do easy is just see if you can blow air back though the return fuel line one way or another. I would use a piece of rubber hose over the return line and use my lungs. if you can not, its pluged for sure but if you can it still may have some kind of restriction like a kink, etc.
2
« on: May 26 2013, 12:22:55 PM »
If the regulator does not work check that the fuel return line is OK, not plugged, etc.
3
« on: May 26 2013, 04:39:18 AM »
If you have a stock balancer I would double check to make sure that the one you think is TDC on the TA balancer really is. Look at the crankshaft key slot on the stocker and where the TDC mark is in relation to it, then compare it to the TA balancer to be sure you are using the right slot on that balancer for TDC.
4
« on: May 26 2013, 04:29:59 AM »
Bob, I used the a stock balancer and used a measuring tape to make a mark for the 25 degree spot, than filed a small slot there so the spot would never be lost. You hook the Hobbs switch up to a vaccuun/boost hose and than wire it into the second pump. I'm sure there are directions on here as to how far from the TDC balancer mark to make the 25 degree ATDC mark and someone here most likely has install directions from Racetronix as to how to wire everything up including the Hobb switch or go to their site or give them a call. I did this stuff a long time ago so this stuff is not fresh in my head and I would not want to give you any bum information offhand.
Bill
5
« on: May 23 2013, 11:30:04 PM »
If both pumps are running when not into boost it will over power the regulator and cause the car to run rich. I have my second pump set around 14 psi (Hobbs switch) to kick in. Sometimes I will manually kick the second pump on with the hood up to see if the fuel pressure jumps up & to hear the pump run. I also have an idot light that comes on in the cabin when the second pump comes on but all that is really saying is that current is being supply to the pump which does not mean it's really working. That is why I check the second pump every now and then. Hi Bob, are you sure that cam sensor is in right? Steve, "You Thee Man"  Trust me, God has a special place for you. 
6
« on: April 07 2013, 01:55:27 PM »
Bob, "CONGRATULATIONS" on your daughter getting married! I wish them the "VERY BEST"!!
7
« on: April 07 2013, 12:44:49 PM »
Bob, your'e in good hands with Steve & Crew!!!
Bill
8
« on: April 05 2013, 01:23:33 PM »
Steve, the reason that I have not been on the Buick sites and keeping up with things the last few years is that I've been bracket racing a " Grand Sport" corvette that I bought in 2010. On the "Corvette Forum" C6 performance section I (a 260 lb.) fat man holds the Grand Sport "Competely Stock" and "Bolt-on" 1/4 mile records at the moment. Last week was the first bracket race of the year here and I made it down to the last 6 cars in modified (usually fast cars that are towed in) before I went out. I got paid for making it that far so I am already a "professional" first race of the year.  Bill
9
« on: April 05 2013, 11:40:38 AM »
Thanks Steve for posting the direct link, I just posted the web site link in my post but took it down just as soon as I saw yours,
Bill
10
« on: April 05 2013, 11:05:01 AM »
Steve, when I came to the site I was glad to see you still kickin too! Here's the best way to get the complete story from bare block to finished product with blow by blow pics, insight & time slips. This engine has been in the car for a while and I did the complete build on your old hunting ground; TurboBuicks.co m. Just click on the stage section and I'm the first thread, I have time slips with pump gas (12/13 psi of boost) and the 9 second race gas post. I have not used the alchy in a long time. Check it out, Trust Me, I think you will really like the pics and get a more complete story than if I went into it here. Bill
11
« on: April 05 2013, 01:43:44 AM »
Hi Steve, Bob contacted me on the other board. I have not been keeping up with the Buick stuff for a while now and posted a link to this site but I see he already found you. Bill Steve heres a pic of the engine I built that is in my car now, Poston headers, TA heads & block. It has run in the 9's at 22 psi with the "air off" using a TT street chip, a gutted oem maf sensor and a 0 psi launch.  
12
« on: August 12 2011, 12:22:26 PM »
Wish I could have added something helpful! 
Just to let you know, your post and that other guy's post were the only two that I got a chance to read before looking the car over.
13
« on: August 11 2011, 06:28:43 PM »
We all know Steve knows his stuff! In his post he covered "all the bases as usual" in a respectful, constructive, polite and matter of fact style (unlike me ). It's been a couple of years since I have had to touch anything on this car and frankly forgot alot of the in's and out's, like the fuseable links, how many, and what they are for. BUT I KNEW WHERE TO GO TO GET THE INFORMATION!!! 
14
« on: August 10 2011, 10:26:55 PM »
Sometimes that type of symptom would indicate a bad connection at the battery. Usually caused by corrosion under the main connector on the positive lead.. Remove them both, clean up the connections real good and give it another try.
That is what it turned out to be. My connections are plated and looked clean as a pin.The top terminals on the battery read approx 12 volts but the side terminals read less than 1 volt so I brushed everything and now its fine. Thanks Bill
15
« on: August 10 2011, 03:36:22 AM »
I turned the key to start the car which ran fine yesterday and I heard a quick shorting out type of noise. Everything seems dead, no check engine light and I have not had a chance to check anything out yet but because the car is blocking the driveway I will get to it tomorrow/today.
I was looking for as much information and sugestions that I could get before crawing all over the car. I will let you guys know what I find. Thanks Bill
Edit: Is there some reason why I was not notified by e-mail that I had responses to my thread? Something I need to change.
|
Show Posts