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Messages - Turbodave
1
« on: November 12 2012, 07:47:50 AM »
I only included the "black/grey" thing because it was in the drawing from a previous post. Back in 89/90 when the smaller holes were discovered, we didn't pay much attention to the color but I did keep a foot of 14 awg solid wire in my tool box to check the fittings.
I'm not sure where this black/gray thing came from. I've got two GN's and my 87 still has its original grey Y in place. I also still have the original gray Y from my 86 (I'm the original owner) here also. NEVER seen a GN with a black Y. Don't know what color the TTA's originally came with, but I do know the GN's (at least the 86/87's) came with gray.
2
« on: November 08 2012, 02:52:45 PM »
That's normal ops. You're supposed to save a file in order to review it.
3
« on: August 11 2012, 10:08:51 AM »
Thanks for the link Dave. I ordered four from the first link you provided. They are the correct ones.
4
« on: July 19 2012, 04:18:37 PM »
Now that's hilarious!!!
5
« on: July 02 2012, 06:26:55 AM »
Ya, likely the seals on the exhaust side (which there should be NONE) certainly contributed to the problem. The stack up certainly would have bent a pushrod or more, especially at high lift and higher ratio than normal.
The exaust guides have to be cut down, and modified exhaust valves added to run seals on that side.
6
« on: June 22 2012, 04:29:13 PM »
Had remote start added today! Now it has everything!!!! 
7
« on: June 18 2012, 07:20:54 PM »
Aw, damn Dave, that sums a bitch is sweet. That's the only car I'd trade the Yukon for. Keep me up with how you like it. Interior, road noise, rattles and all the other stuff nobody else seems to give a rip about. 
Well, I've only got a few hundred on it, but we must have done 4 or 5 test drives of all the Lincolns before we decided. Interior is flawless with the Bridge of Weir sumptuous leather, real Olive Ash wood trim, NO, NONE, NADA road or wind noise! They pack this car with sound deadening material and Lincoln uses some kind of special sound deadening glass even. No rattles have developed yet. It's no GN in the power department, but the twin turbo, direct injection 3.5 V6 is got some serious giddy up for a 4,885 pound car!!
8
« on: June 18 2012, 05:59:31 PM »
Traded away my 08 Accord sedan, which I could never get accustomed to. Rock hard seats, and not so smooth ride and horrible road noise.
The new ride!! 12 Lincoln MKT, EcoBoost twin turbo 3.5, AWD, Crystal Champagne.
9
« on: May 28 2012, 11:40:11 AM »
H Can you glean anything from this?
stupid cameras stupid new format stupid operators...
http://youtu.be/T_wiMWe6Ba4
How are your scanmaster IAC and TPS numbers at warm idle?
10
« on: May 26 2012, 12:31:44 PM »
How ma This is a typical turbo buick owner of today. He goes to the track and runs 14’s and is pissed. Hits the bulletin boards and is told about tuning but ignores the info. He goes out and buys 4” downpipe, 1200hp turbo, triple valve springs, double pumper, 400 amp alternator, 55lb injectors and Reds chip and ready for the 10’s. But to his surprise he only made it to the 13’s. He is told on the board that his setup can handle 30lbs of boost with alky so that’s his next buy. After not listening on how to tune for alky he blows up the motor and blames all the part manufacturers. Now he looks deeper in this tune thing and sees XFI is better then the rhythm method of birth control. He spends a few thousand on it and gets a startup program and goes to the track. Still pissed he is in the 13’s calls go out to supertuners. Being cheap as most buick guys he won’t pay. He gets a few friends who read some xfi tuning secrets and hit the track. Now he runs 13.0 but flames are shooting out the side of the head and the track is pissed for the oil down. Now the peanut gallery chimes in and says buick sucks and now he drop in a bulletproof LSX  
How many times have we heard/seen that scenario played out!! 
11
« on: May 26 2012, 12:29:01 PM »
I think everything was EMI related.
It usually always comes back to that when there are random unexplainable timing issues (EMI, RFI, Bad grounds).
12
« on: May 26 2012, 09:58:53 AM »
Thos Norbs - Give us the pros and cons, when and why to switch, total cost, driveability.
The stock ecu does not provide immunity to interference from MSD boxes.
Thanks for getting engaged here Norbs, its all interesting and I'll have to study it all.
Did this (the above) turn out to be the ECM or all that Moates stuff?
Dave, the Moates stuff would corrupt the bin file randomly after powering the ecu down. You could re-flash it and it would be fine for a day, a week,,,,,, then all of a sudden a ecu code pops up bad eeprom. So i had to scrap that plan. Using the chip from Eric it ran great, however at high rpm/boost the mass air signal and during accel would go erratic, and start throwing timing all over the place, knock etc. Then I decided to go SD mode to eliminate the MAF out of the equation, it worked much better, however it still would start doing weird things and I could not get consistant results to hold the timing or the closed loop fuel control steady at WOT. Put the fast in and timing was rock solid, and great fuel control....... .......
Those problems may have had more to do with the chip than the ECM. I haven't seen such issues, and still run the stock ECM. However mine differs in that I am running the Tranlsator Pro. I have great bins for either MAF or SD. Running SD now.
13
« on: May 25 2012, 10:08:54 AM »
seems to me that if one wants to get his money's worth out of an aftermarket system, then one must not only be able to learn how to use it, he must have access to a dyno. Otherwise, the cost of paying for dyno time and a tuner is going to add a lot to the cost and that is never mentioned by these guys selling these things.
And, if one gets it to run on the street as well as the factory ecm, I suspect it will not pass a comprehensive emissions test if that has to be performed annually.
I still laugh when I remember the renowned tuner that was blasting the use of an ME chip on a particular TSM car when he could easily get two more tenths with an XFI. It took many months before he got the car to go faster than it was with the chip. There have been several guys run in the mid 8's with a chip. Now, I agree with Ed, if I were building a race car that running in the Nines, or quicker, I would go aftermarket if for no other reason than more flexibility with timing and individual cylinder tuning. But, then with a race car, I would be looking for hundreths, not tenths, , and absolute repeatibility run to run.
On the track, a race car runs a very narrow rpm band and launches at very high rpm. This makes the basic tuning relatively simple and I suspect most of the gains will come in low gear trying to get it to launch optimally and consistently.
On the street, one is concerned with a much broader rpm band and many degrees of throttle rather than foot on the floor. Gas mileage, emissions, cold weather performance, hot weather performance, variation in gasoline quality, etc. all have to be accounted for. It is hard to beat a modern chip/stock ecm when it comes to street performance. Self learning certainly helps, but, sometimes it seems to work better than others. There is enuf variation between cars and combos to confound the issue.
And, echoing Ed and Dan, how many people will put in the time and effort to learn the hows and whys of tuning? Think how many people buy a programmable chip and cannot even read the instructions to program the simplest of functions even when there may only be six things that can be adjusted. Most people that are buying these things today are not car guys. They don't understand timing, fueling, basic electrical systems, etc. How many posts do we see that go something like, "My car won't start; what should I buy?" Vendors love them because they can sell them magical parts to solve their problems.
On the other hand, I keep looking at modern aftermarket systems to install on my Challenger...b ut, when I look at the prices, the calculator in my head keeps saying, "Buy a modern hemi and drop it in there...."
No matter what your flavor, nothing beats fuel injection on the street 
Oh Boy!!! Give this man a cigar!!!! Man-oh-man did you hit the nail square on every point!!!!!!
14
« on: April 27 2012, 07:30:00 AM »
No, I agree with SuperSix! Your original post should be what people see on opening your main page. Wording is perfect!
15
« on: April 05 2012, 02:33:28 PM »
as some of you know I have been in this business for over 25 years... I will offer advice as needed or requested...at least I could be good for something here...
How many hours to re-paint a GN? I know many variables here but to narrow it down for an educated guess, not a national show quality job, but a good solid job. NO body work just R & R, strip original paint and repaint? I've gotten a couple estimates both around $8,000. They say $1500 in materials, and 90 hours of labor. 90 hours? 
Where are you located? If you're anywhere near NC, I know somebody that can give you a primo job, for a lot less $$$ That's where mine is getting done now... Yes it takes time!!! Mine's been there just over a month and is going into the booth this week.
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