The literature that came with the booster in the Vacuum Conversion Kit states 1/16”-1/4” play/clearance at the pedal which I verified and matches what Ed and Steve said. Should I take the m/c apart from the booster to check the clearances between the booster intermediate push rod and master cylinder piston? If the clearance is too large I would have excessive pedal travel which I do not have. If too short, I wouldn’t have the clearances at the pedal, right? I recall seeing the end of the booster push rod was ground down so I believe the eBay seller of the kit set the length for this booster and Cardone m/c.
Can you please confirm EarlBrown?I did get a chance to check out the brake on my wet driveway. Even with the new, good check valve, the brakes are too hard to push quickly, and it take tools long for the booster to recharge for subsequent push, like when needed to pump the brakes. So I retested the booster with the tests Steve provided the link for and it fails. Here is a youtube video that shows a failed Booster similar to my results.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QaUPC8TjzWAQuestion is why did the booster fail - is it full of fluid from the 1st m/c rear leak or is the booster seal defective sucking fluid past the secondarily seal in the m/c? Scroll to bottom of this article
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/129 After the few short trials in the driveway, I see this leak between the new m/c and booster (again).
Any thoughts, other than I may need a new booster and a new m/c?