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Messages - john robertson
1
« on: April 24 2020, 03:38:03 PM »
I like the look of them but don't like the price. I'm not saying sellers are overcharging for them, but just that instead of spending the money, the stockers look just fine.
2
« on: February 19 2020, 05:38:01 PM »
I'd do the leak down now and see where you are. And I wouldn't feel bad about the 132 psi. More boost fixes a lot of ills.
It's a minor issue, and I'm not really concerned, because, my immediate thought was, as you say, just turn up the boost to compensate for lower compression, and maybe like Earl has suggested, it's due to cam timing. It's a 212-212, by the way. If my compression was higher, I'd just have knock at lower boost. I'm running at 21 lbs of boost now with a 6262 turbo w/ DIY alky, with no knock. I'd turn it up, but the incidence of challenges out there, for me, anyway, is so low, I'm just not motivated to do so. Hell, I just took off my 20" wheels and gained at least three car lengths out of the hole. 
3
« on: February 17 2020, 03:58:27 PM »
Just to finish up, I did an abbreviated compression test, testing only one cylinder which initially read 132 psi before adding the Restore. Unfortunately it still read the same thing after 600 miles with Restore. So much for that, at least in my experience, but it was worth a try.
4
« on: February 15 2020, 08:45:06 AM »
Well, thanks for the explanation. Makes sense. I couldn't find out those details as I bought the engine used and I found out from the seller that he himself did not assemble it. The machine shop did. I can't complain because I got it very, very, cheap! The heads and roller-rockers alone are worth twice what I paid for the whole motor. I'm sure I'll be OK as long as my compression numbers don't decline. 
5
« on: February 14 2020, 03:02:34 PM »
So the only one that gets carbon in the oil is the one that's been bored....
What rings do you have and what was the grit of the stones on the final finish hone?..
If the answer is ''moly and I don't know'', odd are you have cast iron rings now. (and found your problem).
I don't know the answer to either the type of rings or the honing, so you're saying that the rings are worn to the extent that they allow excessive carbon by? Well, for me, as long as the engine's not smoking and performing as well as it is, it's not a problem. Can't worry about that unless it happens. I'm going to do another compression test this week and see if the Restore increased compression and will be posting the results here. Thanks for the Restore suggestion and thanks for your diagnosis, and thanks to everyone who chimed in. 
6
« on: February 13 2020, 01:13:26 PM »
Don't forget -- I have three turbo cars but only one has the dark oil "problem". All three have alcohol injection. One engine is stock with w/50s a TE44 and over 100K miles. No oil darkening "problem". Another has 35K original miles, is stock with 42s, and a TA49 and has -- no darkening. The engine with the "problem" has about 10K to 15K on it, has 80 lb. injectors, is .030 over with ported Champions and a JB 6262. So much fun! 
7
« on: February 13 2020, 12:56:56 PM »
Plugs colored normally...or are they black.
tan
8
« on: February 13 2020, 09:07:47 AM »
I haven't replaced a wheel cylinder on a TR for a long time. Chances are, I never will again. 
9
« on: February 13 2020, 09:02:02 AM »
I use anything on sale in 20-50 or 15-40 & mine does the same thing altho I only put that kind of mileage during a whole season. The motor is about 10 years old now with a good half a dozen track days so when it comes out in spring I'm going to check the compression & add a bottle to see what happens. I'll try to remember I'll post the results next fall. Glad you posted this up. 
Well, I'm thinking by about next week I'll have over 500 miles on my latest oil change which included the RESTORE additive, so I'll be performing another compression test very soon. Stay tuned! Here's hoping it does improve the numbers. Car's running great but oil is darkening as usual, but by next, only 500 miles till the next oil change.  Maybe I'll even go to 600 miles. Who knows?
10
« on: February 10 2020, 08:21:02 AM »
The picture you submitted shows that the front fitting is larger than the rear fitting as they are on all G-body master cylinders. You can't reverse them.
THIS IS CORRECT!
11
« on: February 10 2020, 08:17:21 AM »
The picture you submitted shows that the front fitting is larger than the rear fitting as they are on all G-body master cylinders. You can't reverse them.
THIS IS CORRECT!
12
« on: February 10 2020, 08:07:31 AM »
I seem to remember there was difference in the master cylinders between G/B bodys. I think the B body master fits but the line sizes are reversed in sizes. I bought adapter fittings to correct it.
I use B-body master cylinders on all my cars because I upgraded all of them to LS1 brakes. Fitting align the same as with the stock MC. I didn't use any type of adapter.
13
« on: February 08 2020, 10:40:01 AM »
I finally switched over from powermaster to vacuum brake system, both brake line fittings are the same, so would it make a difference if the rear brake lines is attached to the front master cylinder, or should the rear brake lines be connected to the master cylinder fitting closest to the firewall?
If I recall, they can only go on one way. The hex is the same, 9/16", but one fitting is larger than the other.
You may be right, but both brake lines fit right into the vacuum master cylinder
When I was gravity bleeding the passenger rear wheel the front/larger master bowl was running low. This means my master cylinder brake lines are backward. My photo shows the brake fittings are backward. This weekend I have to replace the passenger rear drum brake wheel cylinder. I'm also going to replace all of the brake bleeders with Russell Speed Bleeder.
The picture you submitted shows that the front fitting is larger than the rear fitting as they are on all G-body master cylinders. You can't reverse them.
14
« on: February 07 2020, 08:16:17 PM »
I finally switched over from powermaster to vacuum brake system, both brake line fittings are the same, so would it make a difference if the rear brake lines is attached to the front master cylinder, or should the rear brake lines be connected to the master cylinder fitting closest to the firewall?
If I recall, they can only go on one way. The hex is the same, 9/16", but one fitting is larger than the other.
15
« on: February 03 2020, 06:09:14 PM »
Well, what happened? I might be acquiring a GN with one of those aftermarket computer systems. The owner complains he can't grasp tuning it himself and he has to get Hartline to tune it. Hence, he never drives his car. If I buy it, the first thing I'm going to do is rip all that shit out. How'd YOU make out?
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