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Messages - wmsonta
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196
« on: December 17 2018, 10:44:11 AM »
Nice! Awesome pass.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I agree. I also agree with always leaving on a hard green while testing/tuning. My guys won't. If you actually can use those license plates with 6.65 power, my hat is off to you.
197
« on: December 15 2018, 08:54:20 PM »
About 10 Mbps download
I just checked mine and I am quite happy with 68% of your DL spd. I do not know your circumstances, but I could double mine for +$10 per month. Don't need it.The website for your son's game and the device you would consider should list the min DL spd for a reasonable experience. I do not know if Canadian TV broadcasters are required by law to furnish content free on FM. If so you might look into SkyLink or similar. It may sound odd, I don't have or watch a TV. This may be another thread I have little business posting in.
198
« on: December 15 2018, 09:21:26 AM »
199
« on: December 09 2018, 11:45:48 PM »
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200
« on: December 08 2018, 11:04:26 PM »
watch the temperature and humidity for you boosted fellows. HG changes or worse ain't no fun.
All that and more is available from the website I posted above. In real time, including right now w/closed track. At your individual track, if listed. Most are listed. An incredible tool for ET racers, where a lot of races come down to hundreds of a second and conditions can change in minutes.
201
« on: December 08 2018, 01:27:55 PM »
"Make your fueling adjustment...a nd go" http://airdensityonline.com/tracks/We have used a cell phone to get air density, grains, etc, for 3 seasons. I recommend it. Scoob is correct, however everything I post is NA. I help an ET racer who runs 6.53 in 1000' air, but 6.75 in 3200'. Quarter mile changes would be dramatic. HTH.
202
« on: November 08 2018, 03:46:58 PM »
"Yes it will go to 6000 rpm with a light load."
Good. You may or may not be into valve float. The OEM saw fit to install 85# springs on motors with hp peak of 4400 rpm. Most will go 5800-6000. Run smooth. They are probably in valve float at 5k.
"he has seen lifters jump the lobe on cams with xfi lobes and not enough spring pressure."
You are describing lofting. I stopped using spring pressure to control lofting years ago and I was late to the party.
"Said he tore one down with a broken cam. I can imagine there's quite a bit of force on the cam with a lifter landing on the backside of the lobe."
If the cam broke, it is flat tappet. I have commented on the quality of cam cores here. Probably a Comp.
"I could be completely wrong with today's ignition systems, but my understanding is that today's coils operate on battery system voltage"
I will try one more time. You will have battery voltage at the starter. The same voltage can be found at your interior courtesy light. One needs 300+amps, the other needs 0.01amps. Swapping the two power sources will not work. Just because you have battery voltage to your coils, do you have 300+ amps or 0.01 amps? You said the coils were cold to the touch. If I had issues running and the coils were cold, I would verify proper current availability. Coils do not care about voltage at the supply.
"and the computer controls the dwell time (we're taking milli-seconds) in between discharge cycles."
Computers require voltage not amperage. I have the ability and tools to measure the quality (intensity and duration) of the spark and plug resistance on running engines. Sounds like you are talking about (C)apacitive (D)ischarge ignition. CD ignitions can present serious problems.
"a waste spark manner like the stock system,"
Forget everything I said about the inability to empty the coil charge.
203
« on: November 07 2018, 05:10:15 PM »
Will this thing pull full rpm @ light load?
There is a guy who I have known for yrs, although I am not involved in any way. I have walked around his truck. He buys complete motors and the builder has great support. It is a blown methanol big inch hemi. Above 2800 hp. About 55# boost. He runs a 10 amp magneto. Plug gap is .016-.018.
One of my theories, coil over-sat is further aggravated by the inability to empty the previous charge due to high resistance. No proof.
I have a V8 air compressor. The pass side head is a 2-cycle air pump. 302 Ford. 100 cfm @ 100psi. The distributor is oem V8, with 8 trigger events for the remaining 4 cyl. If the 4 unused plug wires are not grounded the motor will be unable to take load and run smooth. It will break up before the governed 3200 rpm.
All of this to get here. If reducing plug gap does not allow some amount of higher rpm, I would look at a component issue. Probably where you are/have been already.
On a note, I would like to see you get away from increasing the voltage to your coils. Voltage does no work. The current from 12v @6 amps is exactly equal to 7amps @ 10.28 volts. Every 12v points ignition car ever produced was resisted down to 6-7 volts to the coil. My street car in 1971 went 9k rpm w/single points and single coil. Modified Production cars ran 1/4 mi w/6.50 gear and ran dual points/2 coils and reduced voltage to everything.
If you do not have @ 6 amps minimum to all coils, I would not expect another solution. If your Mean Effective Pressure is not exceptionally high, you should not need more than 6a.JMO
204
« on: November 07 2018, 01:11:55 AM »
"I’m getting a misfire"
First, I believe you should take the following as food for thought, not gospel. My experience is apples to your oranges.
When I run into this, it is NA. Symptoms are the same as valve float. Breaks up at higher RPM, WFO. Severe cases stop accelerating. If I know the valve springs are good, I usually try to convince the owner to reduce the plug gap. Any improvement will indicate over-saturation. No improvement does not rule it out. I have not seen saturation problems with less than 7 amps supplied to the coil/s. In my world, if you do not need that MSD-7x box,do not use it even if free.What gap do you use and how much boost?
Valve float=the inability to keep the intake valve from bouncing off the seat after closing. The 206 and 212 Comp lobes common in signatures here, have been around since at least the early 1980's. I am somewhat familiar with dozens of them. They are ground on oem quality cam cores which necessitates Comp's recommendation of 90-95# of seat pressure.A 1.77" valve will have about 2.45 sq in area. At 25 pounds per sq in boost, it is about 60# trying to hold the valve off the seat. Combine that with the minimum seat pressure I require and arrive at your own conclusions. I require 110# min seat pressure from 6000-6500. 125# min from 6500-7000. Heavy valve train and hyd rollers require more pressure.What rpm are you trying to turn?
If you determine over-saturation is your problem, I would start trying to find the path to ground. Early HEI distributors at high rpm (NA) with module controlled dwell/aftermarket coils were lucky to get to 5k rpm w/o breaking up completely. I was able to cure most by replacing the rotor screws with nylon ones.
HTH, good luck.
205
« on: November 06 2018, 09:59:04 AM »
You will have to pardon me. I should be as dumb as a sack of hammers, with modern stuff.
Are you dealing with the symptoms of coil over-saturation?
206
« on: November 04 2018, 03:18:36 PM »
"Vancouver Island is a beautiful place and we feel blessed being able to live here"
Yes.
You are going to be fine, enjoy yourselves.
207
« on: November 04 2018, 03:05:20 PM »
"Degreeing a cam isn't lining up the dots"
No.
That was #2 of 4 sh!t Comp Cams in a row, about 4 yrs ago. I have done 3-4 CC cams since w/no issues. I heard, Tony Clements quit buying Comp over it. I quit recommending Comp.
That was/is a salvage yard 360 Magnum with 70k mi. I degree'd 2 cams, flogged an 'out of the box' set of entry level alum hds, set up the valve sprgs and set the valve train geometry. That young mans idea of a street machine is a used motor in a 1/2t Dodge short bed. Not what I would chosen. But it works well.
100% street, it leaves @ 3200-3400, shifts @ 6200. Goes 11.85, 1.75 60ft. 10-11 in idle vacuum, 13-14 mpg highway. He drives as much as a 1000 mi a month, 3k-5k a yr, for 4 yrs.
I have to resize pictures.
208
« on: November 04 2018, 11:02:21 AM »
"Yes will do, thank you sir!"
No need to thank me. Like you, I intend to gain from this place. I will probably order the GN parts this month. To have them on hand for warm days this winter. I have some of my other cars waiting on parts now.
I only help mechanics, you turn your wrenches. I will help if I can. I do not tell people what to do with their money, time or effort. I tell them what I would do. I have some experience.
I have been wanting to post a picture, dunno.
209
« on: November 03 2018, 06:12:53 PM »
Op, how long do you intend to spend in the South?
You are Canadian, I would think a beach and a seafood dinner would interest you and your lady. Cajun food is good stuff, but beware they will eat fish bait on occasion. If you desire local events, you can phone the Chamber of Commerce.
I wouldn't like to see you afraid on your vacation. However, Top Speed is right. Tourist should not travel 'off' streets in any American city. I have been to 'Norleans' many times and lived in Sulfur La for 13 mos. I had no firearm.
I have been in every city in the US, I would think. Probably 1/3 of Canada. All unarmed. What interests do you two have?
edit-when I lived in Louisiana, some bars only closed 1 hr a day. A 'Coonass' can generally drink some booze.
210
« on: November 03 2018, 10:54:44 AM »
If the engine is out, I would check all the bearings, seals, etc. I would also check for main cap 'walk'.
As most here probably know, you can easily 'roll' out the block half main bearings. I use a soft rivet. Aluminum or copper.
All can be easily done w/o removing the crank. You can also check the crank for straight in the block. The bearing will tell what it needs, as a rule.
If you run into anything questionable, post a picture here. IMO, this forum should be able to walk you though nearly any problem.
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