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Messages - wmsonta
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151
« on: March 01 2019, 09:18:13 PM »
One of my buddy's is building a 455, I actually picked some parts up for him. He was the one that told me the short block 455 weighs the same as a short block Buick 350. I cannot confirm or deny this. I have never weighed them. Externally they are identical. The 455 has over a half inch larger bore and some amount less webbing. My information shows a 455 @ 600# and a 350 @ 620 as installed. I have a large list, nothing verified. I have an old Magazine where they took a Chevelle LS6 454 and ran it against a stock GN in the 1/4 in freezing conditions. They put ET streets and race fuel in the Chevelle and left the GN bone stock. The Chevelle won but the GN gave it a close race. Again, they should have put race fuel and sticky tires on the GN. I own a stock GN (slighty larger rear tires) and am better acquainted with a '70 LS6 than most. OEM, as delivered, I would bet my car would win. With any reasonable amount of traction, my car would easily lose. The LS6 as produced, w/oem distributor would require better gas than was available at the pump from about 1973 on. They were advertised @ 11.5 compression and would 'pour' above 11. About 3 mos. after the LS6 became available, a dealership engaged me to help one of their mechanics 'blueprint' and dyno an LS6 crate motor. GM chose to over rate the LS6 instead of rating it at 425 hp. The 425 was a BS deal manufacturer's used for insurance purposes. Some 425 hp motors were ridiculously underrated. At least 3 made 500+. At 21, I could not have driven an LS6 Chevelle (450 hp) if given to me. A 425 hp car would have required high risk insurance for the duration of the note and this would have had to be brokered thru the bank or dealer. An LS6 was a nice car and was expensive. Not as expensive as a GTX or a GSX. I drove them, rode in them, worked on them and sold aftermarket parts for them. The first one I tuned, would wipe the oem tires out in 3rd gear. If you allowed it to peg the tach, it would probably take 1 1/2 seconds to get under steam again. Oh yeah, that crate motor dyno'ed 434 gross.
152
« on: February 28 2019, 01:33:19 PM »
I am too smart to get involved w/brand loyalty on a brand specific forum.
I do, however, have a somewhat comprehensive list of engine weights. Helpful when building from scratch. Probably never use the Pratt&Whitney weights, but-
-a 455 Buick is approx 20# lighter than a 350 Buick
-25# more than a '60's sbc
-5# more than a 500 Cad
-140# less than an early Hemi.
No info on a 426 Hemi.
I do not doubt the article or that it happened. Having went though that era, I won't try to explain it. Pure Stock and on street rubber available when those cars were new, I would have bet good money an SC/Rambler would have beat both. 'Scambler' Ramblers were the cheapest/lightest niche muscle cars ($3000)made. At their rated hp, there was no insurance penalty.
153
« on: February 27 2019, 09:34:24 PM »
It's a very rare combo. Everything about it is rare. GTX was rare because of cost. It was considered a luxury performance car. In the Plymouth line, think more than a Sport Fury. A base GTX was somewhere around a third more than a base Road Runner. The Hemi was extremely rare because of cost and insurance. With all the street racing I did, I only saw one compete. At the track in those days, the Hemi's had their own classes. they could only compete against each other. They had a weight sanction against them in the pro classes. I forget what he said but very few came with the 4 spd. A 4spd was an additional cost option in at least the last 3 yrs. I do not believe I have ever seen one, 69 thru 71.
154
« on: February 27 2019, 06:39:45 PM »
has a factory Plymouth GTX 426 hemi 4 spd car.
Jeez...
155
« on: February 25 2019, 10:48:36 PM »
There is good advise in this thread. I will add a couple of observations.
If you are going to leave on yellow, it will be necessary to stage shallow. the quickest the car will be is staged as shallow as possible and a 0.0x RT. Easier said than done for some. Like me, for instance.
Like Scoobum, I am a big fan of video when tuning the chassis. I want a white line on the rear tire or big white letters (think Hoosier). I prefer the pass side from the side and lasting for 60+ft. Cell phone video is almost instant feedback.
In this thread there is a picture shortly after the hit and a picture of the car at rest in the staging lanes. From these two pictures I believe your car has oem control arm location with negative rear body separation. It is also possible the front shocks are able to hit their extension limit. Standard G-body stuff. The drag performance could be improved w/time-money, but all street strip cars are a compromise. Guess who decides how much.
The car is certainly capable of running well into the 6's (10's) now. Depending on the weight, it is making some steam. Looks do not hurt either.
156
« on: February 13 2019, 11:02:57 PM »
You missed the subject of the latter discussion which was very the use by of a solid tranny mount with rubber engine mounts 🙂
As a matter of fact, I did.
157
« on: February 13 2019, 10:04:33 PM »
The quick answer is none. Everyone I know is concerned with the drivers side motor mount. I consider poly nearly the same as solid.I have seen one or both motor mounts solid.
The answer to the Gasser problem was a front and mid plate w/rubber trans mount. Homemade or oem.
158
« on: February 13 2019, 09:44:05 PM »
nothing else has changed. .............. ...... the mph has pretty much stayed the same.......... .......... I have never check the pinion angle
Like Mr Woods stated, pinion angle operates fine within a range. With oem style rear control arm bushings you will probably use most of that range at your power level. If the mph stayed but the short time increased, the pinion would probably be going too high. IF that is the cause. The pinion would almost have to look off. The pinion is a shaft with a gear on one end. You will need to be able to mentally visualize the centerline of the pinion shaft. With a floor jack and the trans in park, jack up the rear wheels barely off the floor. Get close to the U joint but not the pinion seal. The whole rear weight of the car is then pushing up on the pinion. If the pinion centerline is pointing higher than the driveshaft centerline, the pinion angle is too high.With the jack out and the rear tires on the floor, the pinion angle should be pointing higher than parallel with the floor.If one of these is off, we will need to get technical, but gains will be made. ------- Apples to apples. You are trying to find 7 hundreds in a world where reaction times can make 1 1/2 tenths difference. Staging deep vs shallow can make a tenth or more. When track tuning a car, it is best to eliminate driver variables as much as possible. I try to get the guy's to stage as shallow as possible and leave on a 'hard' green. After the light goes green, you can just set there and get the rpm/boost exactly the same. You must make the car set still. The time slip will read the same no matter the reaction time. This is enough.
159
« on: February 13 2019, 08:48:46 PM »
Like Scoobum, I do not remember any cracked trans cases with conventional style mounts of any kind. I have seen broken mounts and all kinds of trans issues.
The old gasser's were somewhat famous for it. They had round tubing chassis and tied in motor/trans plates.
Not saying it doesn't happen, rather I have not seen it. I have seen oem style solid mounts used, but not in all 3 locations.
Years ago, i had a guy go though 8 powerglide cases in 3 seasons. Those cases let go internally.
In '71, I built a motor for a guy who had a clutch explosion that tore the hood off the hinges. Plus considerable other damage. I bought the motor back cheap.
160
« on: February 12 2019, 05:46:09 PM »
We were talking about the difference in pictures vs reality. We were also talking paint.
The Chevelle is a nice original car with a number of people who are waiting for me to sell. The only thing not original is the wheels/tires. It has the original spare.
It also has the original single stage enamel paint, but in reality it is far from 'beautiful'. The picture just does not show it. As with any 55 yr old enamel, imperfections are rising up though the paint. I look for this to accelerate.
It has 45k miles on it. The reason it shines any is because it is acrylic enamel.
161
« on: February 12 2019, 05:31:56 PM »
Not enough info for me.What else did you change?
If the pinion angle and the instant center didn't change, it should hook the same. A 9" will eat a small amount more hp but not enough to count.
Is the mph at the stripe the same? RT the same?
162
« on: February 11 2019, 09:44:19 AM »
Yeah, that looks good. Appears, attention to detail. Nice car.
I made a habit of buying low mileage original cars, when/where I found them. Some, like my Chevelle, had to be put up on a rack b4 I would buy the story. All had to have a story.
On the subject of paint, modern paint will hold up 10x as well as 60's enamel. a repaint is hard to see in pictures. Most, I think, will tell when they get close. Mine are original.
163
« on: February 10 2019, 01:08:52 PM »
Without making a judgement, I have found, these old cars age differently.
When I heard about a GNX in a showroom 12 miles from my home, I rode my bike down to have a look. I expected a clone as I have seen more clones then GNX's. Wrong. #247 is still owned by the original owner w/22xx mi. I did not touch it, but did a walk around. It has spent it's entire life in a temp/humidity controlled environment. My GN has 11k and spent the last 22 yrs inside an unheated building.
From what I could see, mine compares favorably. Except, of course, only one is a GNX.
164
« on: February 10 2019, 10:05:31 AM »
165
« on: February 09 2019, 12:04:06 PM »
Not sure why it would be hard on it. The first second it sputters I shut it off.
I do the same thing, however I change a lot of pumps. If you practice this procedure, my problem must be from these vehicles being stored w/o being run. Most have set for years. I changed 2 H-body pumps just getting this stuff started for sale. Thanks for the link.
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