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Messages - wmsonta
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136
« on: June 15 2019, 10:52:34 PM »
thank you Earl, you have supplied the name I was looking for-
137
« on: June 15 2019, 03:45:08 PM »
I changed the filter which brought the idle rpm up to normal.From memory, I did away with the pulsator.I will take it apart tomorrow and have a look.
This will make 4 fuel pumps, I have changed in 6-7 months. They evidently do not set well. Evidently, the valving goes as the motors all ran.
Thanks for the replies. I am considering a DW 200, as long as it will install w/o modification.
138
« on: June 15 2019, 10:28:09 AM »
I will guess, I am going to have to change my fuel pump again. I changed the oem pump for a Walbro years ago. The Walbro lasted 15+ yrs and about 40 miles. I added a hot wire kit because I was unable to get a full 12 volts at the pump.
For the first time, the car does not idle well when it was started. It shows 34# of pressure, line off. It is not misfiring. It does not want to take throttle like it should.
I would listen to anything/everything. I am not wanting to alter the fuel sending unit if I don't have to.
This car is stock and will probably be sold. That said, I will want this fixed right.
139
« on: May 25 2019, 11:46:23 PM »
wmsonta...
I have seen nothing but broken tensioners when used with a double roller. What usually happens is that the tensioner gets chewed up, then the arm breaks, followed in the worst case with a jammed oil pump. Yeah, I see the problem. You are Buick specific and I don't think that way. This is a Buick specific forum. Terminology is another issue. Arm? Is it a guide or a tensioner. I have been into the frt of even fire 3.8's and do not remember anything. Aftermarket? Probably just later ones. Anyway, what I am thinking of is oem. Various manufacturers. It is stamped steel and is not moveable. Gm (60* V6, etc.) are on the pass outside the chain, )\..../. Mopar (360 Magnum, etc) is on both sides, )\..../(. These work fine and may help. As long as the curved surface facing the chain is flat/smooth. They should not touch a new chain. The TAPerformance says to never use a tensioner with a double roller chain. It further says that they should only be used with the link style chain. I don't know anything about TA. The following are JMO. If the follower/tensioner/guide touches a new timing chain, don't put it together. If on the stand, while barring it over and you hear or feel ANYTHING other than ring drag, don't put it together. If in doubt, don't use anything except the timing set. That worked fine for decades. I would be interested in the tensioner that you have seen made for a double roller Buick chain.
I do not believe I have ever seen a 'tensioner' made for a double roller chain. Single roller,yes. Double, no. What I was thinking of was the various oem 'guides' that came on motors produced new w/link chains.There is that Buick specific thing again. I must pay more attention or change something.
140
« on: May 25 2019, 05:05:25 PM »
I was always told to never use a tensioner on a double roller because it would chew it up exactly like yours. More lately, I have heard some say there was some doubles that would work with the tensioner but I don't know a name and I wonder how it will work given the difference in the change width, etc.
I also learned 20 years ago that only the best rollers would make a couple of thousand miles without stretching and perhaps slapping the timing cover.
I pretty much agree with this. I disagree that some double rollers will work w/a tensioner. I believe some tensioners will work w/nearly all double rollers. The difference, to me, is in slack. IMO, a double roller will have little slack on a fresh motor for some time. However, they seem to never stop stretching. A link chain will stretch some before that new engine is timed. Apparently immediately. Typically, they run a long time w/small to moderate slack. Slack enough to whip takes them out. A couple of things from experience. If you are going to go w/ a roller, pay extra for the IWIS (German) chain. I prefer Rollmaster, especially when align bored. 2)My early '70's street BBC went 90k w/link chain. I put 15k on it, shifting as high as 9k rpm. I will stay out of this thread as I have been on both sides. I built/sold performance motors from '69-'73. I help racers today that run professionally built motors. My condolences to the original poster. Being emotionally involved in a money matter never worked for me. It did help me see inside a couple of jails.
141
« on: May 25 2019, 03:14:00 PM »
A lot of years ago, my dad signed up for a Pacific cruise. He was part of the "Sight Seer' 6th and followed MacArthur to places like Borneo and Luzon. Every uncle I had and 3 aunts served active duty. they all survived, but are now long gone. Fast forward to the politically correct present. Obama had his apology tour around the world being sorry for America's transgressions . I have nieces/nephews being taught in school, that my generation is the problem. However, in parts of Europe, children are or were taught that they owe their very countries to the allies. The US, UK and Ca. This video is well explained. Please remember family members who served on May 27 and those who served in WW2 on June 6. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNF28p6wkOs
142
« on: May 19 2019, 04:15:55 PM »
28 spline on a stock tr rear. Probably wouldn't hurt to do a 30 spline setup, but if I do that it hurts the fundage and I'm not going that qwick just yet.
Based on this info, you could just buy hardware. If the pictures work, this is another of my clunkers. Vintage Cragar slots w/manufacturer hardware. Well, the pictures worked. The tracks I frequent, this would work until (from memory) 12.90. They have thread engagement probably 1 1/2 X the stud diameter. edit-yeah, forget this. I do not mess with NHRA, but I just researched the rules. They are saying ALL cars. No break for oem stocker's and I did not find any min stud diameter for the fast cars. Things change.
143
« on: May 17 2019, 08:34:43 PM »
"I do like the idea of the tap the axle flange and screw in some Allen cap screws."
I would price the machine shop first. If real money, I would consider different axles. Most 10 & 12 bolt GM axles were weak, dependent on how hard the hit. If I was to choose axles, I would definitely buy the Ford ends. They are dirt cheap and, IMO, far superior to the c-clip eliminator kits. The axle supplier should be able to clear up things like backing plate mods, everything else. I believe the GN to have 30 spline axles. I would probably buy 30 spline replacements unless I got to dreaming or could run wild times.
Just me though. No one knows your situation better than you.
144
« on: May 08 2019, 12:18:47 PM »
Changing the filers, certainly changed the way I see my car. I detailed the bumpers and the whole front and rear of the car. I thought the old ones were just cracked. Well, 3 of the 4 were. After removing them, they all fit into one 5 gallon bucket. If I was to have driven the car, I guess they would have disintegrated.
They turned out much better than I was able to imagine.
I hope your results are as satisfying.
145
« on: April 24 2019, 12:39:03 PM »
the only piece of advice I can give is leave the car stock and enjoy it.
X2. Like Scoob, I have owned a 10 sec car and a 10 sec motorcycle. I am a fully recovered speed addict. Now, anyone who owns a dedicated race car is someone building a monument to their own tenacity. Brand loyalty is imagined incentive. That being said, the guys are already calling to talk about this season.
146
« on: April 14 2019, 11:05:52 AM »
Scoob, out of Buicks? Out of drag racing? Both?
My curiosity abounds. I am aware, those most dedicated to drag racing 'burn out' the quickest.
147
« on: April 14 2019, 10:56:19 AM »
IMO, anybody anticipating short times in the 1.50's or quicker should not use 'spline shank style' wheel studs.
Some drill and tap their axle flanges for high grade Allen head bolts. The hardware is then cheap, the machine shop not so much. This makes sense with 9" stuff, where oem 31 spline axles are shortened/resplined, etc.
Somewhere around 11.0, I lose my interest in oem GM rears. There will always be those who cite exceptions.The re will always be reasons why they are (exceptions).
I do not care about the fronts. Nobody wants my opinions on c-clips.
Again, IMO.
148
« on: April 12 2019, 03:36:35 PM »
Thanks for the opinions, guys.
I bought Spool Fool. I am a world class critic, but a damn poor body man. If i am disappointed with the color/finish, I will call in a debt from some people I have helped. Hell, I could probably refinish gel coated fiberglass. I will be down to fixing the idle and yea/nay on the headliner. I will have this car professionally detailed.
As it stands today, I will probably consign the car to Gateway Classics. Hopefully, by the end of this month.
There is an outside chance, I would end up keeping this car or my V8 Vega.
149
« on: April 11 2019, 01:08:54 PM »
Do I get the Highway Stars flexible plastic or the Spool Fool fiberglass?
Do the Spool Fool fillers need painted? Are they as 'finished' as they appear in the pictures? My oem fillers lasted about 25+ years, now 3 of the 4 are cracked. time to get started.
150
« on: March 20 2019, 10:49:22 AM »
Yeah, I agree w/Grumpy, that looks scary. The fact, you can get play by hand was enough for me. Most who shake something, exert less than 50 ft pounds. The forces under power are many multiples.
engine torque x converter multiplication (1.5x-2.2x) x low gear ratio (1.72x-3.06x)= the force reacting against the given play. Think impact wrench.
If I was going to buy another driveshaft, I would first know the weight bias. I personally do not like to work with less than 40% rear. From memory, previous G-bodies were 42-43% oem. Those were not GN's.
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