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Messages - bryes
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121
« on: August 22 2013, 10:07:26 PM »
I like a jack that has a nice long handle for reaching far under the car. Lifting height used to not be a big issue for me, but I've noticed now that every year I have to pump the jack a couple more times to gain clearance for my midsection  I'm paranoid about cheap jacks and jackstands. Awhile back I had a car jacked up unevenly and the jacks and jackstands gave out. The unbalanced load twisted the saddles where the HF jacks are constructed from thin bent plate. Fortunately nobody was underneath it. I'm don't know that the milwaukee jacks would have prevented the car from falling in this instance, but I'm guessing the 3/8" thick plate couldn't hurt  My thought is that being made in this country and subject to our legal system forces companies to think long and hard about safety. Nobodies ever accused the chinese of considering the well being of the consumer over profits, I've had too many bad experiences to trust my well being to chinese made jacks and jackstands. For me setting the car, with tires on, down on rims is the safer than jackstands because they are so stable. Space permitting I go with rims + jackstand + jack. But never just the jack. I'd rather use an old american made jack like this Scott-Atwater that I have in Ohio. They quit making them I think in the late forties and I've seen some really crusty ones that still worked will and didn't leak.
122
« on: August 21 2013, 10:25:37 PM »
I think a Milwaukee Hydraulic jack is the best quality model on the market. According to http://www.hyjacks.com, They seem to be the only American owned and made floor jack that is offered in a smaller size. C<heck them out at, http://www.milwaukeejack.com/products.htmlSome nice features: Main saddles heavy duty, appear to be cold rolled steal and are > 3/8" steel. Steel rear casters feature dual ball bearings (rolling and rotating). Front casters have zirk fittings for lube. Jack features no less than 5 separate castings. High lift: Dual Pistons: Pistons and cylinders appear hard chromed for wear. Main ram articulates with lifting arm, protecting sealing surface. Hydraulics are removable and replaceable with new or rebuilt units from the manufacturer. Extra long handle for reach. Release valve is spring loaded to prevent damage from over-tightening Old school design! The only problems is that they cost about 1/2 of the price of a cheap 2 post lift. A cheaper option is a Hein Werner, who also makes a nice piece for about 350 or so, American made but owned by the Chinese. I bought a pair of their jack stands and they seem heavier built than most.
123
« on: August 18 2013, 08:46:10 PM »
Thanks a lot Steve, I'll look into that as soon as I can.
You mentioned a little orange wire that goes to the battery, There's a chance that might be my problem. You see there was a security system that I removed.. or attempted to remove... and I seem to remember it maybe plumbing into that wire. When removing the system, I tried to trace all of the wires down that I could find but I assumed any wires under the hood were siren related. Anyway I'll have to check it out tomorrow. Can you tell me where it goes or where I may find the wiring diagram on you site?
If that's not it then I'll start going through the troubleshootin g guide tomorrow if I get a chance.
Thanks again.
Bryes
124
« on: August 18 2013, 08:07:25 PM »
Thanks Steve,
I double checked and the crank sensor was mounted in the correct spot and gapped at 0.025" (had to use a piece of my NRA membership card).
On cranking there is no spark and no injector pulse. Also no gas smell after cranking... so I'm certain something is amiss.
What are the next steps?
125
« on: August 18 2013, 05:50:53 PM »
Well the stars have all aligned and the weather has been cool enough that I have finally finished installing the engine and am on the verge of it starting (I hope). All of the fluids are topped off and the new gauges installed. I have cranked it so far a few times for a couple of seconds and it didn’t fire right up. I noticed that the scamaster showed no rpms while cranking, so I think this is my problem.
I went ahead and replaced the crank sensor today, still no RPM while cranking on the scanmaster. I’m trying to keep cranking the engine to a minimum, so I’d like to know how if I am on the right track and am hoping for good suggestions as usual. Any help is much appreciated.
Some other issues that I noticed:
1) I seem to be able to only get about 40 psi of fuel pressure after cranking my regulator almost to its limit. Fuel pump was rumored to be new. Don’t have my hotwire installed yet.
2) The tps wasn’t set (going to fix that right now actually), voltage slightly high .
3) The check engine light stays on and the scanmaster seems to have all the necessary readings.
4) I think maybe the engine temp. reading was way off, I need to 2X check that too. I was just most concerned with the no RPM during cranking.
Let me know if what other information you guys need and I’ll be happy to provide it.
Since I move glacially and probably everyone’s forgotten the rest here is a summary, so you guys don’t have to go digging through the thread.
Mostly still stock.
New 45 injectors,
Matching TT chip.
Spring cleaning.
Rebuilt motor, stock.
206/206 FT cam.
New Crank Sensor, knock sensor, Coil Packs
126
« on: June 22 2013, 04:23:03 PM »
WOW, I hadn't even dolloped my diapers 'til halfway through the seventies 
127
« on: June 22 2013, 10:41:21 AM »
Well Steve, you're among the most knowledgeable buick guys out there, at least in my estimation, so I'll never blame you for going with your gut. Plus, like you have said, its not like you have anything to lose by following their advice or anything to gain ignoring it! I just need to make sure that you ain't fixin' to add a dollop of "the gray stuff" for your next oil change to eliminate friction on your cam lobes  For me, I'd have to see more evidence (and warnings on the back of never-seize cans) before I'd be afraid of using it on my spark plugs, coated or not!
128
« on: June 21 2013, 10:52:34 PM »
I think that if the plugs were solid steel, then the AL head's threads would be most likely fail before anything else. But the plug is hollow so it failed across its cross-section where the wall is thin. So in this case the AL threads are not the weakest link, and would probably not usually fail first.
This type of failure shown in NGK's pictures will happen if the plugs are over-torqued. I should know, I just recently failed 2 or 3 that way trying to remove them after they were seized! Other than the rust, you'd have a hard time telling the difference between mine and those in the article. And mine darn well for sure weren't because the lube was too slipery!
As for Engineers, I try to listen to them (not that we know an engineer wrote this), but this article just spit in the face of common sense to me. In essence it says that,
1: Zinc coat = good
2: Never seize = good
3: Never seize + zinc coat = failure
Are we supposed to believe that zinc coat + never-seize forms some sort of super lubricant?
If so then maybe we should patent this and sell it to ARP!
129
« on: June 19 2013, 10:44:21 PM »
I'd be willing to bet that this failure is more of an issue of over-tightening the plugs rather than the lubricant used. How can NKG say that never seize would lead to twisted plugs, then recommend using never seize on "plugs that don't have metal shape plating"?? Are we to believe that the combination of "Zinc chromate metal shape plating" and never seize reduces friction to the point that the plugs start twisting off under normal preloads; while at the same time using never seize or "metal shape plating" by itself does not??
Maybe I read the article wrong, but the clamping forces generated from torquing bolts (or in this case plugs) do not become infinite even if friction is completely absent. Because friction between two lubricated steel surfaces (threads) can be pretty low and friction itself is unpredictable, a properly designed plug should be able to withstand the recommended preload regardless of lubricant.
130
« on: May 13 2013, 10:41:47 PM »
Now this may seem like a “dog ate my homework” excuse, but I haven’t been able to post for awhile because my old laptop’s keyboard went bad and I haven’t been able to use the “l” “o” “k” or “i” characters. In the process I’ve developed a new appreciation for the importance of these letters in the English language and since the firewall at work won’t let me access this site, I had to finally break out “ancient” 2001 technology in the form of my old 1 ghz amd “thunderbird” machine.
As shown below, the engine is back in the car now and getting close to being fired up.
Before installing it I was able to prelube the motor on the stand by hooking the cooler lines up to the radiator as it sat. I prelubed for quite some time before figuring out that my 10 ft length (maybe even 15') of 1/8" id copper tubing was restricting the fluid too much. The gauge took way tool long to register pressure after I felt the drill load up. I finally hooked up a 6" section of the 1/8” OD tube and was quickly able to read 60 psi of oil pressure I decided to buy an electric oil gauge to eliminate this issue.
The actual installation of the engine wasn’t too bad except for having to remove the front bumper. There is not enough space in my shed to bring the crane in from the side through the wheel well, so I think it was the only option. I only wish I would have removed it at the beginning of the project as that extra space prevents a little more bending over while working in the engine bay I think.
Anyway, we’ll see what happens but I’m guessing in the next couple of weeks I’ll be trying to fire it up!
131
« on: April 25 2013, 08:49:03 PM »
I had an `87 escort awhile back and couldn't afford new tires, so I drove the entire summer on the Ohio turnpike with space savers. Being from Akron, I asked a retired tire engineer (--I know this will sound like another internet story, but he's respected worldwide and has written volumes on tires---) what he thought about my situation. I remember in particular asking him about the speed requirement of 50 mph, and what would happen if I drove faster. His reply was that I shouldn't be worried about the speed, but I should pay close attention to the tread wear, explaining that the spares were made out of soft rubber, not steel belted, and would wear out very quickly. He was right about that for sure, by the end of the summer the spare was bald  He explained that the speed and mileage restrictions were not really because of the quality of construction of the spares themselves, but instead were intended to prevent the wear, braking and stability issues from having a small tire. Since in my escort space savers were the same size as the regulars, I didn't have these issues.
132
« on: April 03 2013, 09:30:00 PM »
That's the gasket I was referring to Steve, the one between the up-pipe and turbo flange. I just used a copper gasket that I had bought before I knew Earl's thoughts on the idea  Awhile back I found a second stock turbo (luckily not too expensive) that was supposedly virgin. Well, as it turns out it isn't; so I had to go back to the original. Once I get the car running, I thought I might try my hand at rebuilding the second one... Thus the gasket idea.
133
« on: March 31 2013, 09:20:34 PM »
The engine is together now, and except for replacing the vacuum hoses and some little stuff, is ready to put back into the car. Thanks again to everyone for all of the help on this project... it has been a lot of fun. I can't believe it has been over a year now, nothing like moving at a glacial pace  I was able to verify the straightness of my exhaust manifolds with a straight edge, and sealed them with just the silicon as suggested. I must apologize in going against the advice of Earl in using a copper gasket between the exhaust and turbo though. If it leaks then at least it'l be an easy fix. I think it's likely that I'll be removing that turbo soon, so I won't have to clean silicon this way. I did find some black o-rings at Autozone but the help section had a pack with probably 15 in it, only 1 looked like it was the right size. I brought in the old o-rings to match up with and fortunately they had a package of two behind the desk for only $1.60. Next weekend I plan on finishing up the engine, then getting the car ready to put it back in. I have to clean the engine compartment and set up the gauges. At my pace it might take me a couple of weeks but as long as I am able to fire it up before summer, I'll be happy. Also I am second guessing myself a little. I used AC R44TS spark plugs and after reading it seems like cooler plugs are usually recommended. What do you guys think? Thanks Bryes
134
« on: March 30 2013, 08:52:07 PM »
I've just scrapped off the overspray with a razor blade and some water/windex, it works really well and won't hurt the defrost lines like a solvent might. It didn't scratch the glass either, although you might test a small area to be sure. Of course you'll have to avoid scraping off the defrost lines themselves if the ospray is on the inside. If you wan't to remove it from the actual defrost lines, then you are a complete perfectionist that is in for a much larger ordeal.
135
« on: March 10 2013, 09:27:43 PM »
OK, I'll cover 'er up next time I'm out there! That Oil adapter was the last thing that I installed so there really wasn't much of a chance for anything to get in there. Everything always gets bagged when I'm not working on it or taking pictures to keep things clean.
If orange RTV is the way to go then that's what I'll do. There seems to be a whole bunch of different opinions on the best methods.
Speaking of the oil cooler adapter, I'd like to buy some new o-rings for the oil cooler lines (those two small ones) that didn't come in my kit. Where would be the best place to get those?
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