This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Charlief1
Pages: 1 ... 7 8 [9] 10 11 ... 90
122
« on: July 30 2015, 10:59:20 PM »
If I remember right, you don't need to pull the carrier to do the clutches.
123
« on: July 28 2015, 10:11:11 PM »
New question fellas.... Who has run 1.65 ratio rockers on a completely stock head and cam? Problems? Gains? Losses? Valve cover issues? The rockers have to be clearanced for the rockers and besides the coil bind issue you may need to cut the guides down since they only have enough room for about a .460 lift.
124
« on: July 09 2015, 10:47:35 PM »
All this does is boost voltage to the pump at full throttle, right Brad? I wonder if it could be rigged to boost voltage to an HEI coil?
125
« on: July 09 2015, 12:10:11 AM »
Is there a specific "suction pump" Not really. The higher CFM rating will suck harder, just like one of my old girlfriends, but you can "borrow" one from auto zone and return it if you don't want to keep it. If you want one to keep, harbor freight has one that's reasonable.
126
« on: July 08 2015, 08:58:35 PM »
uhh... I'm obviously not an HVAC tech, what tools are needed to do this? A/C gauges, suction pump, picks that will help with getting the o rings on and off, various wrenches for the fittings, ratchet and sockets in various sizes, a small set of forceps or long thin needle nose pliers (forceps work best), PAG oil, R- 134, and enough time to do the work.
127
« on: July 08 2015, 11:52:59 AM »
Is there anything to consider to evacuate the system or anything? The system will need to be sucked down for at least 1 hour. To check for leaks suck it down until it's holding 30" of vacuum, then close the gauges off, turn the pump off, and let it sit for 15 minutes to see if it holds. If it holds then turn the pump back on and open the gauges to continue sucking it down. 1 hour is the minimum but the longer the better. Once it's finished sucking then charge it up until it won't take any more refridgerant. Then start the car and continue charging until you get the low pressure to the 35-40 PSI level. Keep an eye on both gauges so you know what both are doing. High side will be much higher than the R-12 but it should never peg the gauge.
128
« on: July 08 2015, 01:09:41 AM »
I thought surface area was what denoted size? Each tube is a honey comb Steve. If you looked at a cross section you'd see what I mean. The tubes are joined next to each other so the actual surface area is increased.
129
« on: July 07 2015, 08:31:55 PM »
I have always used the variable orifice tube with 134. I think a better condensor makes a big difference. More heat to dispense with requires a bigger condensor. It's not the size, but surface area Steve. Our cars came with a large tube condenser and the new vehicles have a thin tube with many holes in it. That's why it works better. The bad thing is if the compressor craps out then you can't clean the condenser out. 
130
« on: July 07 2015, 05:34:10 PM »
The stock GM orifice tube has 1 hole in it so the transfer from high pressure liquid to low pressure vapor is at a set speed. The R-134 reguires higher high pressures and a faster transfer of liquid to vapor to do the same job as R-12. The Ford unit has 2 holes in it so the change of state is faster. The red or blue ford tube will do a faster change of state and quicker drop of temps. The biggest issue with using R-134 is it's not as efficient as R-12 and using a stock condenser just compounds the issue. Mark did 1 post about using the propellant that's used in those air horns and has had better than expected results. You might want to look his post up to see what he did. Not exactly R-12 but better than R-134. 
131
« on: July 02 2015, 10:31:48 PM »
Maybe it should be leisure suit Larry instead. 
132
« on: June 30 2015, 10:21:23 PM »
I'll have to check out the Russels. Had some braided stainless lines on the white T and as Charlie will attest too, they weren't so Bueno...
I'm saving my dimes for another set of those TA performance race headers. I really like their crossover design with the band clamps and gaskets
Those hoses you had on the T were 100% crap. The Russell's that I have look just like the stock but with the stainless lines and fittings. Part # 692100 and I got them off amazon at a really good price.
As far as the carpet goes, have you tried JC Whitney? They used to sell the plush carpet so they still may. Not my favorite place to order but if they've got them it will be priced decently.
133
« on: June 24 2015, 11:13:54 PM »
As far as the other part.... Nobody said it had to be life sized and couldn't be scaled up.  So he'd go from millimeters to centimeters? Yes Earl, I'm picking on you. 
134
« on: June 23 2015, 01:49:39 PM »
Let's just say I was thinking the toy would be in titanium. and the same mold can make Earl shaped candles too. So they'd be short, dumpy, and horny? They wouldn't sell that well Earl.
135
« on: June 21 2015, 11:26:26 PM »
I thought I'd maybe a few of you would appreciate these. Oct 1978 before i got fat, gray, and ugly. Isn't time cruel!!!! Then consider facelift, dye, and a girdle Gary.
Pages: 1 ... 7 8 [9] 10 11 ... 90
|
Show Posts