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Messages - wmsonta
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106
« on: July 12 2019, 11:33:10 AM »
those donk lift kits does to the cg/ic
Are you referring to 'no hop' bars? If so, I will have your answers. Do they raise the upper rear mounting?
107
« on: July 12 2019, 10:40:46 AM »
90/10 shocks.
I have not seen an actual 90/10 shock since the early '70's. They were replaced with 3 way adjustable frt shocks by about '75. I still own a pair. From memory 60/40, 80/20 and 90/10.
109
« on: July 09 2019, 08:22:21 PM »
You boiled it down pretty well, Texas.
A rear end tries to rotate itself two ways. It tries to flip over backwards and the passenger side tries to flip laterally. Once attached to the body, the rear end will push the body toward the instant center using rotational force. Even leaf spring cars. The most efficient direction for oem is straight forward.
A good example of lateral rotation is top fuel. You cannot get the rear tires close enough.
I need to so more seen and less heard from.
110
« on: July 09 2019, 07:41:50 PM »
My original question was if there was a reason that so many try to maintain the lower bar parallel to the ground while doing the bulk of the adjustment with the upper bar. The vast majority of cars w/4 link, ladder bars, torque arm all stay parallel with the body. Most need a shorter IC and nothing more. 4 links came about for 4 spd cars w/rpm and no real torque curve. I had one in '72. I have seen a number of really short, really high instant center 4 spd cars. A 4 link will react quicker than almost anything else. One note, you do have experience with a sway bar on a four link assuming you still have one on your Buick.  I do. One of the problems with the triangulated four link used by the factory is the short upper arm which is primarily used for packaging purposes . Of course, the triangulated design allows the manufacturer to avoid a wishbone, or some other design that keeps the axle from shifting sideways. The lack of mounting holes which remove the possibility of "tuning" the IC without some modifications is a pain in the neck. I suspect many don't understand it is a four link for this reason. They have a number of advantages for street cars. ]I had a file of IC locations compiled from various buicks that I had played with over the years that I plotted with the Performance Trends software. I apparently lost it on some hard drive I replaced as it has been missing in action since I was running Vista on some machine. Dumb is as dumb does
On cars with no adjustments, spring ride heights and tire size throw IC location around quite a bit. I have seen it ten ft in front of a car, but, I suspect your estimate of 1.5' in front of the bumper is pretty good on average.
I notice that you seem to think that certain short times are good for a G body, while others seem to think they are slow. I suspect the difference is what role power plays. One can take a 400 hp Buick and get a 1.6 short time, but give it 700 hp and it may pull a 1.49 or so. It takes power to accelerate the brick. I think you understand that perfectly. With Tim's car, the numbers match. ET, mph and 60' all match. IMO, the proof of that, when it got slightly quicker et the mph dropped slightly. He is using nearly all the power he makes. Quicker 60's will take more power. I would guess he is about the easy limit of his rear suspension. Grumpy's daughter is trying to push her stock block, basically stock bodied car into the EIGHTS spraying alcohol. She is running a 200 R4 and a stock 8.5 GM rear axle. Now we all know that a stock block cannot make 1200 hp and that a 200 R4 and a stock 8.5 rear axle cannot run 8's, don't we? OMG. Hard for me to fathom. What kind of rear suspension? There are several others knocking on the door as well. She drives her car on the street when she feels like it. This hobby is not nearly as cut and dried as many would have us believe.[size=78%] 
[/size] Yeah, evidently if is not as cut and dried as I believed. Look, you have a good grip on this. Anything normal or reasonable will push straight ahead. Abnormal, unreasonable will not run 4 link.
111
« on: July 09 2019, 05:23:51 PM »
Now, back to my question. Is there any current opinion on the advisability of keeping the lowers close to parallel to the ground and using the uppers to establish the desired instant center, or does it really matter as long as it works and does not create instability when you stand on the brakes?
I'll stick my nose in here. If you cannot adjust the bottom bars on a 4 link, you do not have full adjustment. Typically, 4 links are installed w/one or two of the bottom's holes below the bottom or frame level and about 2 holes above. You then have adjustment for a wide range of power. Almost everyone starts with the bottom bars in line w/the bottom/frame of the car. The driver side bottom sets the diff in the wheel well. The pass side bottom squares the diff. The pass side upper sets the pinion angle. The driver side upper corrects body 'twist'. I have never been around a 4 link car using a sway bar. Instant center (oem) on an A body is usually around the frt bumper to the bottom of the radiator support. G body IC is usually around 1 1/2 ft in frt of the bumper at bumper level. Most start a 4 link w/IC at just below the drivers butt. To answer your original question, lowering the IC below the body keeps the frt down on high powered cars. IMO, an IC as high as the drivers shoulders can bring a 12.0 car high enough off the track to cost time. Inability to carry the frt is hard on parts. All that said, I do not like a full competition 4 link on the street. They are overkill on slower cars and not optimal on high end fast cars. If this picture posts, it is a 1.40 60 ft. The white car went 8 competition rounds in Pro at Eddyville this last weekend. A balanced, dedicated race car w/ladder bars.
112
« on: July 09 2019, 11:19:14 AM »
Now who wants to buy Mark's passwords?
I love it. Thanks, guys.
113
« on: July 09 2019, 11:07:01 AM »
Rain keeps me off my bicycle, so here comes my opinions.
You will not get body separation on an A-body or a G-body, oem. The harder the rear drops on the hit, the quicker it will unload. The most successful are able to delay the unload until farther from the hit and at higher speed. 1.0 G's x 1sec = 22mph. After posting a near mathematically perfect time slip and a video of a really nice clean run, you have chosen to fight a losing battle.
Scoobum flogged his bracket car as hard as anybody. His signature shows 6.72 1/8th (about 10.3-10.5 quarter). 1.72 60'.
From memory, you ran 11.55 and 1.67 short. Having been though this, it is possible to spend considerable resources to gain very little.
One of the quickest A-bodies I got involved with (10.9)was a 355 sbc w/a large nitrous button. He would release a trans brake and instantly hit 200+ nitrous. I thought the pass side rear bumper was going to hit the pavement. Hard counter steer for probably 200+ feet. His time/effort/money/my advice got some really nice runs. He also gained a few hundreds of a second.
114
« on: July 09 2019, 10:17:38 AM »
I'll try not to bother you guys.
Damn, not sure what to comment. You certainly are not bothering me. I am somewhat new to this forum. I make no excuses, I have and intend to gain from my membership. Everybody here gains something. That said, this forum requires effort and dedication not easily visible or often appreciated.
115
« on: July 08 2019, 12:53:23 PM »
3360 sq ft.
116
« on: July 07 2019, 04:27:54 PM »
117
« on: July 06 2019, 11:48:35 AM »
It almost certainly could be used, if std bore. That said, I would look elsewhere. I would salvage what came easily, sell the rest cheap. I would not mislead. I believe your intent to take it to a reliable machine shop is a good plan.
The last V8 blk I had bored was 'fitted'. $375 out the door for 100% street. The last build I was asked to get involved with (360 in) had went down twice w/less than 100 mi total. My advise easily fixed the problems. Machine shop bill was $1150 for oem blk & hds. 100% street Duster went 12.6 the first run.
There are certainly cheaper hobbies, goldfish for instance. Good luck forward from this point.
118
« on: July 05 2019, 09:07:40 AM »
and, in a nutshell, anything run by the government will never compete with free public enterprise. When large private companies start buying each other up, the result also approaches government run enterprise.
I would just change one word. "will never compete with unregulated public enterprise."
119
« on: July 05 2019, 08:55:24 AM »
thanks for the replies.
I usually try to eliminate middle men. However, I think my best bet is with a supplier orientated toward GN's. I believe this is my best shot at the right color grey. There must be a half a dozen shades of grey listed on non specific interior supplier's websites. They almost certainly supply the GN community.
I will remove the headliner before ordering and add clips, misc, etc. I have owned this car 23 yrs, no need to hurry. The only other headliner I have done was a '56 Bel Air. Over 30 yrs ago.
thanks again.
120
« on: July 03 2019, 08:26:15 PM »
I am going to R&R the GN headliner. I pulled the map/dome light and visors this pm. After considerable research, I intend to buy the unit whole.
I am looking for advise, experiences, opinions, favorite suppliers, etc. If you replaced your headliner, how did you choose the color and how did it turn out? I believe I will need an extra set of hands to remove (?) and surely to install the headliner. The front trim will stay, I intend to remove the rest as needed.
I am not going to recover the visors. They look ok and the drivers side has an oem sticker on the top side.
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