IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: Joel Russo on September 03 2013, 01:10:40 PM
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I ordered a Walbro 255, and Hotwire kit from TT, and installed it on my '87 GN over the weekend. Installation went smooth, as I took my time, and I'm pretty anal...
I started the car this morning and it fired right up, fuel pressure went right up to 44lbs at the rail, and stayed there. I check for leaks as I also replaced the fuel filter. All was well, so I ventured out on the maiden voyage. Car ran like a scalded dog as it always has. I got a few miles from the house and realized I forgot my wallet. Always nice to have when you get pulled over :D
I shut it off in the driveway, got my wallet and came back out to the car. Opened the hood to check fuel pressure again when I started the car. Car fired up, then I noticed the gauge drop as the car started to stumble. Fuel pressure dropped to 20lbs as the car shut off. The first thing I did was check the 20 amp mini fuse that is on the Hotwire harness that mounts to the rear of the alternator. Fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse with another 20 amp, and the car still would not start.
I checked the FP and injector fuse on the fuseblock, and they were fine. Ended up pushing the car into the garage and now I'm begging for help....
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If it were me, i would run a hot wire from the front of the car directly to the pump power in feed and see if the pump runs, does nothing, or gives you a big spark when you touch your test wire to the pump input
IF the pump runs and does not create heat or a big spark, then you could concentrate on the wiring before it. If it does not operate correctly, then you have a problem with the pump or install.
Where did you get the pump and what is the number for it?
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when you replaced the hotwire fuse did you check to see if it blew again ?
sounds like a bad install
the fact that it ran means it was somewhat correct ..at least for a little bit
the blown fuse in the hotwire means you need to concentrate your trouble shooting efforts to the hot wire feed wire from alt to the hotwire relay at trunk or the pump wiring from that relay to the pump,
check the run of the hotwire from front of car to rear and look for a rub through or pinch through of the main feed wire
if not there you may need to drop the tank and take another look at what you did
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This is what I have done so far...
I unplugged the hotwire and ran 12 volts to the pump via the factory plug. The pump makes a humming noise, but I don't get any pressure at the rail.
I bought the pump and Hotwire kit from Turbo Tweak. The Hotwire kit and pump came with Racetronix labeling..
After I replaced the hotwire fuse, it did not blow again, but then again the car would not start either..
I'll get under the car and check to make sure nothing pinched the Hotwire from the front to rear, then I guess I'll drop the tank?
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If the pump does not make pressure when wired directly, that should tell you something
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The pump makes a humming noise, but I don't get any pressure at the rail.
Rubber hose from pump to hangar blew off?? :chin:
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If I confirm that the hotwire harness is not pinched or compromised, I'm going to drop the tank and remove the pump to make sure the hose did not blow off.
Would that cause the fuse to blow on the hotwire harness?
Any chance the factory relay went bad?
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The Hotwire harness is not pinched, nor is the lead from the relay to the tank.
I pulled out the pump and the short hose from the pump to the hangar was on.
:013: Nuthin' is ever easy...
Now what?
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As the pump made noise and nothing happened, it had to be the pump or the hose.....unles s someone clamped off a rubber hose between the tank and the fuel rail which is pretty unlikely.
Looks like the pump must be dead. You can drop it in the tank and run it on the ground to see if fuel comes out under pressure....in case there is any doubt. IF not, contact Eric
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The Hotwire harness is not pinched, nor is the lead from the relay to the tank.
I pulled out the pump and the short hose from the pump to the hangar was on.
:013: Nuthin' is ever easy...
Now what?
(http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp23/ygspider/Iknowthatfeel_zps83685027.jpg) (http://s394.photobucket.com/user/ygspider/media/Iknowthatfeel_zps83685027.jpg.html)
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Dead pump? Seriously? That blows....A whole lot. Explains why a LOT of guys go with the DW pump...Good luck getting the car back up and running.
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Saw a bad DW pump the other day. Guy was telling me it could not be bad because it was new and it was guaranteed for three years! It was dead.
Chinese is Chinese no matter what the guarantee so like all things, you take your chances. At least, I think Walbro if it is not a counterfeit is made on this side of the world....
And you really need to replace the in tank harness with a heavier wired one when you go DW or Denso...
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Steve... Do you recommend I replace the in tank wiring? This Walbro came with the wire that plugs into the pump and goes to the hangar.
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when i bought my pump from racetronix they told me to make sure that i check the polarity of the pump because the positve and negative could be reversed.
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Steve... Do you recommend I replace the in tank wiring? This Walbro came with the wire that plugs into the pump and goes to the hangar.
I would....these harnesses are really old and the ground side has always been weak
Racetronix sells an hd harnesses that replaces the bulkhead connector in the sending unit and runs the ground wire all the way to the connector so you have a direct ground path. Be sure you tug gently on the wires to make sure they were well crimped in the bulkhead connector
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just for the heck of it...look at the top of your pump. Next to the connectors, there should be a couple of metal contacts. I think they are test points or maybe just the attachment rivets for the terminals. touch power and ground wires to those points next to the appropriate +/- terminals. See if the pump then works
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just for the heck of it...look at the top of your pump. Next to the connectors, there should be a couple of metal contacts. I think they are test points or maybe just the attachment rivets for the terminals. touch power and ground wires to those points next to the appropriate +/- terminals. See if the pump then works
Steve... Do you recommend I replace the in tank wiring? This Walbro came with the wire that plugs into the pump and goes to the hangar.
I would....these harnesses are really old and the ground side has always been weak
Racetronix sells an hd harnesses that replaces the bulkhead connector in the sending unit and runs the ground wire all the way to the connector so you have a direct ground path. Be sure you tug gently on the wires to make sure they were well crimped in the bulkhead connector
I just ordered the one you described.
I'll test the pump as you described and report back later tonight.
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I went for the complete new hangar, harness, and hot wire kit from Racetronix - I love the build quality and value.
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thought mine was great until I redropped the tank and soldered the wire that was not crimped on both sides...did not bother to contact them because they build perfect stuff
Glad I did not pour a lot of gas back in the tank before I tried it after install
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did not bother to contact them because they build perfect stuff
Sarcasm? :hmm
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Update:
I put the Walbro pump on the bench and hit it with 12 volts. It made a sick sounding humming noise. I then hit the two points that Steve mentioned and it made a similiar humm noise.
I then hit the stock pump with 12 volts and it sounded like it was ready to take off. Sounded like a normal pump should.
Looks like the Walbro died a premature death, then caused the fuse in the Hotwire harness to blow.
Looking on the bright side of things, at least it $hit the bed in my driveway :cheers:
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Update:
I put the Walbro pump on the bench and hit it with 12 volts. It made a sick sounding humming noise. I then hit the two points that Steve mentioned and it made a similiar humm noise.
I then hit the stock pump with 12 volts and it sounded like it was ready to take off. Sounded like a normal pump should.
Looks like the Walbro died a premature death, then caused the fuse in the Hotwire harness to blow.
Looking on the bright side of things, at least it $hit the bed in my driveway :cheers:
:rofl:
(And you can say "shit" whenever you want to here ;) )
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yeah, when you said it blew the fuse, I figured it had died but someone recently showed one that would run when you went to those two points so i was curious. :icon_smile:
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did not bother to contact them because they build perfect stuff
Sarcasm? :hmm
Absolutely!
The product is great...just the execution of assembly was bad in my case...but
I will check it the next time instead of trusting
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:rofl:
(And you can say "shit" whenever you want to here ;) )
Thanks for all the help guys, diagnosing this shit is a pain without the experience of those on here. :rock:
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:rofl:
(And you can say "shit" whenever you want to here ;) )
Thanks for all the help guys, diagnosing this shit is a pain without the experience of those on here. :rock:
:icon_kidra:
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did not bother to contact them because they build perfect stuff
Sarcasm? :hmm
Absolutely!
The product is great...just the execution of assembly was bad in my case...but
I will check it the next time instead of trusting
I had a similar experience. I don't blame Jack at Racetronix, but there was a QC issue when they shipped out my dual fan harness with 30 amp relays and 20 amp fuses; thus causing the fuses to pop the instant the fans came on. Jack said he had a bunch go out the door with the issue. Good thing Racetronix had included spares in the kit.
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Here we go again...
Update: I replaced the dead pump with a new one, and also installed the intermediate wiring harness... voltage to the new pump made it sound like a healthy pump should.
Installed averything in the car, put another 5 gallons of fuel in the tank, turn the key and no start... The pump runs when I first turn the key on then stops like it should.
I disconnected the hotwire and tried it with the factory wiring, and still no start.
I do not have fuel pressure at the rail.
I plugged my jumper wire from the fuel pump test lead to the hot stud on the alternator and the fuel pump will run, but no fuel to the rail.
Checked all the pertinent fuses and nothing cooked.
WTF :013:
Willing to pay a reasonable rate for someone to come to Harrisburg, PA and diagnose the problem! No kidding.
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disconnect the rubber hose that goes from the tank steel tubing to the steel fuel line that goes to the front of the car
jump the pump and see if fuel spurts out as it should if the pump is working
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disconnect the rubber hose that goes from the tank steel tubing to the steel fuel line that goes to the front of the car
jump the pump and see if fuel spurts out as it should if the pump is working
No fuel.
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I am lost on this one....if you hear the pump running, then I would think it would be pumping.....
So, if you remove the pump from the tank and set it in a bucket with some gas in it, it should not pump either with a ground and a positive connected to the pump....even if it sounds like it is pumping
If you try this test, be sure to connect the feeds to the fuel pump, set it in the bucket and make the power connection to the battery afterward in order to avoid a spark at the pump connection.
If it then pumps, we know it is not the pump. If not pumping or running, shake the pump.
before you do this, tho....connect the stock wiring, and under the hood, jump 12 volts to the gray test connector straight from the battery or back of the alternator...a short jump makes it easy from the battery stud on the alternator to the test connector.
This powers the pump and bypasses the ecm so the pump runs full time instead of two seconds-key does not need to be on
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I already tried the stock wiring and the jump from the test lead. The pump sounds like it runs, but no fuel is pumped.
Now I have 10 gallons of fuel in the tank, and no way to pump it out before I drop the tank again and try to figure this out again.
Hey SuperSix... I'm getting tired of this Shit. :icon_eyes:
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Are you sure the fuse under the dash is still ok.
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65 pounds of gas...need an assistant :)
I understand getting tired of it
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Are you sure the fuse under the dash is still ok.
I checked every fuse in the block multiple times, and they are all good.
Just picked up one of those hand pump thingies from the auto parts store, gonna try to get some of this fuel out before I drop it again. Wife's getting tired of me coming in smelling of gas. :icon_kidra:
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wired direct as you had it eliminates any fuses or relays...almos t sounds like the polarity is reversed...pum p running backward and nothing coming out....but, unless the first one was bad and this one is reversed on the polarity markings, that ain't it :D
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wired direct as you had it eliminates any fuses or relays...almos t sounds like the polarity is reversed...pum p running backward and nothing coming out....but, unless the first one was bad and this one is reversed on the polarity markings, that ain't it :D
I thought about the reverse polarity as well, but there's only one way to plug the pump in with the supplied wire.
I sucked out most of the fuel and dropped the tank enough to disconnect the feed, vent, and return lines. Between smelling the fumes, and being late at night, I'm starting to argue with myself...and losing the arguments. LOL.. I'll pull the guts out in the morning and take a look.
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Some times you have to make yourself laugh in order to keep from killing the car or the first person that walks by and asks why you keep working on it
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Manufacturing debris blocking the pump intake?
What kind of pre-testing can we do to have confidence in a pump?
Measure flow thru open pipe?
Add a restriction and confirm we still have decent flow?
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yeah, the old gallon per minute is not a bad test open flow and we cold deadhead it momentarily to see if it jumps to 70 psi or whatever the bypass is set to
Have to remember that running one that is not submerged will burn it up very quickly so other than a quick touch to see if it is going to start is it.
I often wonder how many pumps are ruined from someone plugging them in on a bench or simply from running low on fuel and sucking air
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wired direct as you had it eliminates any fuses or relays...almos t sounds like the polarity is reversed...pum p running backward and nothing coming out....but, unless the first one was bad and this one is reversed on the polarity markings, that ain't it :D
I pulled the guts out of the tank and took a look :O at the wiring. It all looked just like it did when I put it in the tank a few days ago...
Sooo.... I took it to the bench and filled a small container with gas and put a short hose on the hard feed line coming off the sending unit. I kept the new Racetronix supplied wire plugged into the bulkhead. Had a friend hold the works while I gave the hot and ground terminals of that plug a 12 volt zap. pump ran, but no gas out of the feed line... WTF.. I said.. scratched my head and figured I would reverse polarity. Why not... Nuthin' else seemed to work thus far.
Reversed the wires and hit the ground with the hot and the hot with the ground.. pumped like a good pump should and had fuel gushing out of the feed line.. Go figure. As you know, there's only one way to plug these things in as the connectors are stupidproof. So the only conclusion I can come to is that the wires are on the wrong terminals on the plug.
A friend of mine who races NHRA Super Stock at the national level is headed over in a few hours to help me figure out where to go from here. He's a bit more savy on solving wiring issues than I am.
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LOL
I thought those things only happened to me. Did this pump come from Eric also?
there are a lot of counterfeit walbros on the market.
If it worked when you reversed the connections, then that is definitely the problem. Don't think it is possible to be elsewhere than the pump but if this was a new wiring harness, meter it to be sure the wires are not crossed in the bulkhead connector or in the outside the tank harness....str ange things happen with new stuff
Unless I find something quick, it looks like I may be dropping the tank on one of my cars. It was cutting out and then running okay...today, it failed in front of my shop after I returned from a test drive...Thank goodness it failed there and not on the highway..and thank good it failed! Lot easier to figure out the problem when it stays failed!
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LOL
I thought those things only happened to me. Did this pump come from Eric also?
there are a lot of counterfeit walbros on the market.
If it worked when you reversed the connections, then that is definitely the problem. Don't think it is possible to be elsewhere than the pump but if this was a new wiring harness, meter it to be sure the wires are not crossed in the bulkhead connector or in the outside the tank harness....str ange things happen with new stuff
Unless I find something quick, it looks like I may be dropping the tank on one of my cars. It was cutting out and then running okay...today, it failed in front of my shop after I returned from a test drive...Thank goodness it failed there and not on the highway..and thank good it failed! Lot easier to figure out the problem when it stays failed!
This pump also came from Eric, but it is in the Racetronix packaged box... The "in the tank wiring harness" also came from him and was packaged from Racetronix as well.
Going to check it thoroughly with the volt meter in about an hour.
Don't know how much fuel you have in your tank, but i bought a $14.00 hand pump that worked like a charm in getting 10 gallons out of mine last night.
When this thing first failed it was on my driveway and I was bitching I had to push it in the garage... :icon_kidra:
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Mine was about empty so I thought maybe it was just out of gas altho I have put a 150 miles on it since I felt the first "jerks"
Just jumped it and found the pump was running so I added a couple of gallons of gas and it acted like it wanted to run...so I am guessing that $1 a foot in tank hose is leaking but I guess I have to open it up to find out :D Wish I had not added another couple of gallons to slosh around but sometimes stuff happens
I am running a Denso from Racetronix plus his harness which failed due to a bad crimp on the connector the first time I put it in....I blobbed some solder on it and have been living in fear that it would crack from vibration....t hink I will order another one before I drop the tank so I can eliminate that concern
Take your meter and put it on ohms to verify that who ever made the harness did not mix up the connections in the plugs
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I'm not impressed with the connections on the wires from Racetronix... The hot and ground ones that go from the pump to the bulkhead fitting have pulled from the small metal connectors. I will be soldering those before I re-install. In fact, I'll solder all the others as a pre-caution.
When I researched the fuel pump deal, I went with what the masses were running. Figured it would be just a plug and play like advertised.
You know, I don't mind paying good money for quality stuff. This whole Walbro/Racetronix situation has left a bad taste in my mouth. I sent them an e-mail asking to speak to a live body as I was having issues with their product. Their response was to go to the website... never saw a website with a pulse...
I run a small business, and I pride myself in customer service. If it's not right, then I will make it right. How you treat people is more important than the profit you make off the sale. oh well better start soldering...
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that is what happened to mine...Jack does not talk to people....neve r has. But he is aggressive in defending his products when someone points out a problem
I suspect you will have to replug two wires, but the meter will tell the tale
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Actually, no meter needed. Just follow the wires
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When i bought my pump and harness from racetronix they asked the colours on the wires going to the pump and sending unit. Apparantly there are two options and maybe you got the wrong one. Thats why he informed me to double check that the positive and negative match up to the positve and negative to the harness.
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I know this is a little off topic but my stock pump that i had in the car held pressure for awile after i shut it off. I have since installed two of these walbro pumps and the pressure bleeds off almost instantly when i shut it down.i made sure the clamps were tight and even i jammed a smaller hose on the pump because even with the clamp super tight the hose felt funny. I have purchased all my injectors and wiring harnesses and even a sending unit and have been very happy with everything but these damn pumps.sorry to get off topic was just curious. Thanks
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assuming you have no leaky injectors, or regulator, the usual problem is the check valve in the pump that is supposed to prevent the gas from being pushed backward into the tank when turned off so that you have instant prime when you hit the key to start it again. Seems to be a very common problem that it does not do its job.
I think these pumps are built like Fram oil filters inside
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This Walbro pump was relatively cheap, and so was the wiring kit...
If a guy wanted the best pump, hanger, and wiring kit to go with it, what should he buy. Keeping in mind, this is a street car that will probably see 10's at the track once in a blue moon.
I'm not opposed to replacing this whole deal down the road.. Hell, I've dropped the tank numerous times in the past two weeks...gettin g pretty good at it.
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Ive checked everything on my car and i know its the pump cause i put my stock pump in and it holds pressure. My only complaint is is takes a second or two longer to start the car. I know if i claim warranty i will be told it is something i did so i dont bother. I am wondering if there are any other alternatives to buy. My car is a daily driver as long as the weather is nice so i definatly want reliability. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks Steve
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This is a godsend for dropping fuel tanks.. Catch it on sale or drop a coupon - you will thank me later. :icon_kidra:
http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html)
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_11238.jpg)
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OOOOoooooo! I want one of those!
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I got one on sale for $49, IIRC..
Lifesaver for dropping tanks.
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This is a godsend for dropping fuel tanks.. Catch it on sale or drop a coupon - you will thank me later. :icon_kidra:
http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html)
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_11238.jpg)
Sure, now you tell me.. :x
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Ive checked everything on my car and i know its the pump cause i put my stock pump in and it holds pressure. My only complaint is is takes a second or two longer to start the car. I know if i claim warranty i will be told it is something i did so i dont bother. I am wondering if there are any other alternatives to buy. My car is a daily driver as long as the weather is nice so i definatly want reliability. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks Steve
yeah, I know what they will tell you. Not wanting to be pissed off, I did not complain either.
The alternatives are, as I see it:
Try another pump, Buy a different brand pump, or live with it..... If you use a Denso which is what is currently giving me trouble but I don't think it is the pump, then you have to cut a little notch in the gas tank lip to get it to drop in altho some say theirs went in without doing so. There is a little nub sticking out of the fuel sending unit resistor that hangs up in most cases. Earl said he trimmed it off a bit and it went...mine would not. Pump is bigger and you have to kluge the mounting. Pump only flows slightly more at 70 psi than the walbro 340 and pulls 50% more amperage so it definitely needs better wiring or it will get hot and that is not good.
The Deatschwerks pump is popular. It's Chinese made and guaranteed for three years whatever that is worth. Flows a little more and draws a bit more current. It needs better wiring or you will notice that the wiring is warm at any weak spot along the route. A few have said the pressure was too high at idle because of the volume being bypassed was too large for the return line size but I have one on my other car and it was fine. I have seen a few go bad but I cannot say if the pumps were struggling due to inadequate wiring which caused them to overheat or just a bad pump. You have to trim up the bottom of the pump or the bottom of the fuel hanger to get them mounted.
Eric sells a super 340 but states it may well need larger lines-particularly on the return size. It looks pretty close to the Aeromotive 340 style that seems like it puts out so much more at low speed as well. I think both of these mount just like the walbro in the hanger.
The problem with all these pumps is that they flow like crazy at low pressure and are great for normally aspirated cars but they don't put out much more at 25psi of boost than the walbros do.
I have wondered about putting a check-valve in the line back at the tank end to hold the pressure but also wondered how it would affect flow volume.
If the the factory fp relay is good so that the pump runs for that two second period when you turn the key on, normally the car should fire up right away even if the pressure has dropped. If the factory relay, which is still used when triggering a hot wire kit is used, is bad, then it is going to have to crank until the oil pressure comes up above 4 psi or so to get the fuel pump circuit activated. You might make sure that original relay is working.
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This Walbro pump was relatively cheap, and so was the wiring kit...
If a guy wanted the best pump, hanger, and wiring kit to go with it, what should he buy. Keeping in mind, this is a street car that will probably see 10's at the track once in a blue moon.
I'm not opposed to replacing this whole deal down the road.. Hell, I've dropped the tank numerous times in the past two weeks...gettin g pretty good at it.
The Denso is reputed to be the best quality if you don't mind doing some hacking to get it to fit because it is much larger in diameter than the stock pump, does not fit the factory hanger, and is hard to get thru the sending unit hole in the top of the tank without some modding.
As John Spina of Caspers does not seem to be doing any new Buick stuff, we seem to be stuck with
racetronix for the wiring unless someone comes along and starts offering one. I guess the limited market does not help
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Quad Air The mans name is Red Armstrong 1-440-235-3232 great fuel pumps.
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Thanks for the info guys. The relay comes on for two seconds and shuts down as it should if i dont start the car. My guess is there is probably no check valve at all. As the summer is over and i will only drive the car another month or so i will worry about it next year. I will keep all those options you guys give me open and maybe order something over the winter. I really hate having to spend money on parts two and three times over. Sometimes i wonder if its better to let it sit in the driveway and just look at it cuz everytime i start it lately it costs more than just gas lol
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Quad Air The mans name is Red Armstrong 1-440-235-3232 great fuel pumps.
Dan, you believe that Red is not just buying a pump off the shelf and grinding the name off it so you won't know what brand it really is? :D
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Steve been running a double pump system from him for 5 years or more and never had a problem, was just a thought.
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we seemed to have a lot less fuel pump complaints a few years ago....Now, I am not sure any brand is as good. I had a 307 last about 20 years before it got loud and scared me :) On the other hand, it replaced a pump that was loud one day after it was installed...bo th came from Red with a piece of wire jammed into the bypass valve to raise the bypass pressure way up
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Thanks for the info on the pumps Steve. Now you have me thinking I'll just run this Walbro until it dies...
I just got finished puttin' the tank back up and adding the juice back in that I pumped out. Hooked up all my wires, and low and behold we have ignition.. :rock: Steady 44lbs of pressure on the rail, and a nice smooth idle. Let it run a bit before I put a beating to it. Ran well for a few miles so I parked it and called it good. Now I have to install the new DP that has been looking at me from the bench while I played with this fuel pump issue.
Thanks to all who chimed in on this thread, and my good friend that helped me sort out the "what wire is supposed to go where issue"
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:powersix: :powersix:
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Thanks for the info on the pumps Steve. Now you have me thinking I'll just run this Walbro until it dies...
I just got finished puttin' the tank back up and adding the juice back in that I pumped out. Hooked up all my wires, and low and behold we have ignition.. :rock: Steady 44lbs of pressure on the rail, and a nice smooth idle. Let it run a bit before I put a beating to it. Ran well for a few miles so I parked it and called it good. Now I have to install the new DP that has been looking at me from the bench while I played with this fuel pump issue.
Thanks to all who chimed in on this thread, and my good friend that helped me sort out the "what wire is supposed to go where issue"
did I miss what you did to fix it? I thought about the fact that there are two different harnesses available depending upon which factory arrangement the car came with...but I was going down the road and did not try to post
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okay, I see the what wire where bit... :) sounds like it was wired for the other factory possibility... first thing I did was to see if the hot wire and ground coming out of the connector matched up with the power and ground from the front of the car....I am guessing they sent the other harness but a paperclip will fix that
glad you got it this time
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I guess I got the "other harness " but I never knew I had an option.. Probably a blessing in disguise as two of the three wires from the pump to the bulkhead fitting pulled right out of the terminals. Would have vibrated off in short order. I soldered everything tight and ran a few continuity tests to put the right wires in the right spot on the plug.
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I could not find the in tank harness on their site so I sent an email asking what to order...no answer as of yet. Last night, I found the complete assembly which I think is all he sells even tho he lists individual parts for the assembly when you order the complete version and it has already been shipped.
I wish we had an alternative. I will solder the pins when it gets here. I am getting too damned old to enjoy dropping the tank all the time.
He does mention on his site the difference between the two harnesses...do n't recall if Eric has that info on his site, or not.
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Happy to here you got her up and running and she working good. And you probably got really fast at the re and re of the gas tank lol. Cheers steve
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Guess I will have to drive mine a bit to see if I found the problem because it won't fail in the shop.
Before I dropped the tank, I decided to follow my own advice with regard to troubleshootin g. I was not getting fuel pressure on PL so I was guessing the fuel pressure was dropping....fi xed that and so far the fuel pressure seems fine while running for 45 minutes in the shop and getting it good and hot.
Studying PL, I noticed that cell 1 on the SD chip was showing 0 instead of 128. That is wot fueling about 15 psi. Not sure how that would affect cruising and low speed but I reset it to 128.
I guess I have to go drive the damn thing and see if I get stranded or the problem shows up again. I always hate these kinda problems because I wonder for two or three years if it will happen again :)