IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: YGspider on August 16 2013, 06:00:12 PM
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I don't know how or why but this stuff destroyed my car. The engine is toast needs a rebuild. Never going to use that shiza again. I went over everything I've done to my car the only reason it started that noise was the 20-50 oil change that so many have used. Maybe a fresh motor is to tight for that oil? either way it did something.
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baloney
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what was your oil pressure
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With the VR-1 my idle was about 20 and cursing was steady depending on RPM's I may be wrong but I cant see what else happened after I changed the oil to cause the issue. I've driven myself near mad.. maybe It just happened.
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My car did not care for 20/50... lifters took far too long to quiet down and I'm sure it took a little more "umph" to squeeze it through the oil pump but it did not destroy my motor :O
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the only way that 20-50 would destroy an engine would be with a plugged by pass valve, a high volume pump, a sorry oil filter, and 100 psi oil pressure at start up. Then one would expect a collapsed oil filter element and no oil pressure.
Otherwise, on a new engine, one can suspect poor machine work, a bad engine assembly, or an owner that went into boost with no scan tool to show timing retard and detonation, or one that did not understand what the scan tool was telling him.
No way can you blame it on 20-50 oil. And, a properly built engine should never require heavier than 10-30 unless it was a race engine built with chevrolet clearances
20 psi of oil pressure on a new engine with 20-50 oil is awfully low for a properly built engine. Sounds like the problem was already there. I'll stick with the three causes in the second paragraph
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I toll him to phone me,but you know they don't listen o well.
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I will call you tomorrow , I was out tonight with friends. I have a feeling the motor was put together not to well. A lot of local rumors are circulated in regards to who built my motor . Also in regards to over boosting and running with out scan tools I've never done that shit. I've took nothing but care and respect in regards to this car... I've purchased a powerlogger and I've noticed two things the BLM's are 138 at idle and the 02's are too high to maintain a WOT pull so I've never been able to hold the pedal down pass 3000 RPM
Why cant these cars be nice :013: :powersix:
I'm wondering if the lifters collapsed. Either way this was not my fault and I agree I think the engine builder was very incompetent :icon_eyes:
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the engine that David (Just a Six) mentioned is looking pretty good right now
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Are you going to rebuild yours or are you going to buy another engine?
Good luck,
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Phone me at this number 905-447-9603 .
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did you prime the oil filter before you started it after your oil change?and why would you use such a heavy oil for?
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did you prime the oil filter before you started it after your oil change?and why would you use such a heavy oil for?
The first time I did the oil change I didn't prime the oil filter so that is the one mistake I made. And I heard lots of good things about VR-1 20-50 a lot of guys swear by it. The funny thing is my car still drives perfectly flawless and doesn't make any noise when load is on the car. It's hard to say what happen until I take it apart this winter. I'm going to bring the car to Roger tenant in Port Perry for the machine work.
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Your o2s and blms are in conflict from what your reported above. Make sure that someone that understands these cars sorts thing out before you take it out after the engine is fixed
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Your o2s and blms are in conflict from what your reported above. Make sure that someone that understands these cars sorts thing out before you take it out after the engine is fixed
I'm going to burn a new chip as well as get brand new injectors 60lb.. as of right now I don't know if the original owner matched the combo up right when he ordered the chip.
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either im confused or you are full of crap or dont have a clue
you start off...
"this stuff destroyed my car. The engine is toast needs a rebuild."
but then you just posted
The funny thing is my car still drives perfectly flawless and doesn't make any noise when load is on the car.
so what is destroyed that it needs a rebuild that you say was caused by the oil ??
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pan is full of metal
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I don't know do I look like a machinist? My point being is after the oil change the car started to act up.. Maybe it was a rookie mistake on my behalf of not disconnecting the red wire and cranking it a few times.. But live and learn I guess. Will see in the upcoming months once the rebuild is under way what happen.
I don't have the tools to rip into the car or the clearance in my garage as of now so I'm going to have to wait. Rest be assured this issue will get solved one way or another.
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Come on dude you can't possibly be blaming the oil. It sounds more like user error here; either yours, the previous owner's or the engine builder... or a combination of all three.
Your best bet, value for money, is to buy David's old shortblock off of Mac. I can have my brother check it out for you if you want as he is friends with Mac, and knows his shit.
Or even better flip that thing, cut your losses, and buy my car. ;)
PS. You can fill the oil filter about 2/3s full and cut down on your "prime time" with a dry unit.
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never install a dry filte.r
fill it to the top and let it soak in then fill to top again and repeat until it wont take anymore.
then spin it on
copper is usually bearings but could also have gold sparkle from copper tec gasket spray used on head gaskets
could have wiped bearings on a dry start up or over rich tune (cylinder wash down and oil dilution)
or from poor assembly clearances , rough cut on crank thrust surface, or converter taking out thrust bearing
did the old oil smell like fuel
what converter are you running ?
if you have a roller cam with morel lifters , morel doesn't reccomend using 20-50 due to their tight clearances on the lifter components
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I did fill the filter with oil but I didn't disconnect the red wire. I cant see that being a completely dry start as oil has just ran down the whole motor into the pan? I've done millions of oil changes now on my dads trucks and cars and never once have we primed the filters by cranking the motor a few times. As for the motor I'm going to just take my time and rebuild with all the parts I want.. no more guessing. ARP studs all around and a full roller motor is the goal... Will see what happens. I just wish I could have drove the car for a few years before something this stupid had to happen. And for gods sake at least be able to get on the Gas and have some fun and not worry every two seconds because the guys who built this car did a terrible job... Time to rewire the whole car and get it back to how it should be.
I'm not going to sell it. That would be a huge waste of cash.
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never install a dry filte.r
fill it to the top and let it soak in then fill to top again and repeat until it wont take anymore.
then spin it on
copper is usually bearings but could also have gold sparkle from copper tec gasket spray used on head gaskets
could have wiped bearings on a dry start up or over rich tune (cylinder wash down and oil dilution)
or from poor assembly clearances , rough cut on crank thrust surface, or converter taking out thrust bearing
did the old oil smell like fuel
what converter are you running ?
if you have a roller cam with morel lifters , morel doesn't reccomend using 20-50 due to their tight clearances on the lifter components
Stock converter and yes the car had a fuel smell but it wasn't rich the car had leaned out plugs. Also the cats where plugged solid.
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there is no need to disconnect the wire...just fill the filter and crank it up. Should have oil pressure by the time you look at the gauge.
From the sound of it, you bought the wrong car and it went downhill from there.
Make sure that whoever rebuilds the engine has built Buicks and understands that they use Buick clearances and not Chevy clearances.
You told us before that the o2s were high and blms were high which does not make sense because high blms tell us that the computer is adding fuel to make up for a lean condition while high O2s tell us that the car is rich and should be telling the computer to remove fuel.
You say the converter was plugged solid and that would make it run rich.
In the end, you are new and don't know anything about the cars in general and you don't know anything about this car in particular or what, or who did what to it. Sounds pretty much like a cluster F to me. Hopefully you will find someone experienced building buicks to do the engine and someone experienced with the cars to straighten out all the other problems with the car before you start driving it.
I suspect it would be much cheaper to find a good engine to buy than have this one rebuilt but I guess we shall find out sometime down the line.
These cars can be quite reliable to drive but one has to do his part which includes learning how they work and how to know when something is wrong as well as not abusing them beyond their intended limits.
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myself i would turn the radio up a little louder and drive the damn car and take the car to someone who can figure out your 02 and blms for you.lots of guys out there willing to help you.my jeep had a terrible knock to it and i got another100000k ms before it blew.on another note you should never start a car with a dry oil filter and especially any engine with a turbo unless you like to hear knock knock knock at start up.
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there is no need to disconnect the wire...just fill the filter and crank it up. Should have oil pressure by the time you look at the gauge.
From the sound of it, you bought the wrong car and it went downhill from there.
Make sure that whoever rebuilds the engine has built Buicks and understands that they use Buick clearances and not Chevy clearances.
You told us before that the o2s were high and blms were high which does not make sense because high blms tell us that the computer is adding fuel to make up for a lean condition while high O2s tell us that the car is rich and should be telling the computer to remove fuel.
You say the converter was plugged solid and that would make it run rich.
In the end, you are new and don't know anything about the cars in general and you don't know anything about this car in particular or what, or who did what to it. Sounds pretty much like a cluster F to me. Hopefully you will find someone experienced building buicks to do the engine and someone experienced with the cars to straighten out all the other problems with the car before you start driving it.
I suspect it would be much cheaper to find a good engine to buy than have this one rebuilt but I guess we shall find out sometime down the line.
These cars can be quite reliable to drive but one has to do his part which includes learning how they work and how to know when something is wrong as well as not abusing them beyond their intended limits.
Sorry low O2 I put the wrong word in there High BLMS with LOW o2's my apologies. Also I've done nothing but research after I got this car.. hell I didn't even know how the internals worked on a engine now I cant understand and communicate with you guys on engine internals I knew nothing off last year. I think this project will not only eat up some of my money but will be a very valuable learning tool for me and a big step towards becoming a better trades men. You got to remember I'm 20 years old and this is my second car. And If I do say I'm pretty happy with what I've learnt. The only thing burning me up is how this happened.
Maybe I'm overlooking something maybe there is something easy to fix.. I can only hope and bring the car to someone who can really tell me what's wrong.
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Get back to basics before you start chasing non-issues.
Get good base oil pressure readings. (Hot cold, idle, WOT, etc)
Check your overall tune(FP, TPS settings, vacuum lines, etc)
If there's that much bearing material in the oil, you should have oil pressure issues, especially when hot and heat soaked. If it's below 10psi or so, then start chasing what caused it in the first place.
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The car was not being enough fuel then. No telling what damage had been done before you got it. The more you drive it, the more it will cost to fix it. Toss a rod and the cost will be many times what it is at the moment. Park it. Anyone can learn. We were all new once
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Your o2s and blms are in conflict from what your reported above. Make sure that someone that understands these cars sorts thing out before you take it out after the engine is fixed
Steve I offered to go to his house and sort the car out free of charge when he purchased it...but he decided he'd rather struggle. I cranked out another 120 mph pass last nite with this engine I've been beating on for 3 years. Good thing I don't know what I'm doing.
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Rest a easy guys, I went to his house and look at the car and heard it run and there nothing wrong he has a few noisy lifters that you cant really hear them, Bill told him he might have 36lb injectors but no there red strip and there 38lb and he has a TT chip for 009. so there you go also the clacking at the front is his belt tensioner. End of report.
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Your o2s and blms are in conflict from what your reported above. Make sure that someone that understands these cars sorts thing out before you take it out after the engine is fixed
Steve I offered to go to his house and sort the car out free of charge when he purchased it...but he decided he'd rather struggle. I cranked out another 120 mph pass last nite with this engine I've been beating on for 3 years. Good thing I don't know what I'm doing.
well, they say ignorance is bliss so you must be pretty happy!
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Rest a easy guys, I went to his house and look at the car and heard it run and there nothing wrong he has a few noisy lifters that you cant really hear them, Bill told him he might have 36lb injectors but no there red strip and there 38lb and he has a TT chip for 009. so there you go also the clacking at the front is his belt tensioner. End of report.
Be sure you double check the numbers on the injectors because the ring colors did not mean much after awhile.....I think I had some green striped injectors that were the same as the red stripes when it came to numbers...not to mention the early red stripes were called 40 lbs injectors, but I think they later went by 38. The only thing I trust is the number :D
and which 009 chip does he have The 42.5 009 that later had another number? Does he need a chip then?
What about the metal in the oil? Or was there ever any metal in the oil? What about oil pressure of 20 psi on 20-50 oil?
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Steve i did't see the oil pressure when the car was running because i was getting gas out, but the car sounded really good has for the metal in the pan the pan has never been off the car and for the injectors in the car here's the numbers 621038 they do have a red ring around them and for the chip hes going to answer that one.
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Dan told me how the oil pressure on his fresh stage two motor is and my car is about the same hot idle the oil pressure is about 10-15 psi and at cruising speed depending on rpm it goes from 30-40 psi. As for the injector chip combo I just believed that the last owner was smart enough to match the chip to the injectors. I'm glad the engine is fine but I must have OCD or some real bad case of a love for my Buick I hate that little thud thud thud the car makes but if the engines good to go I'll just stop worrying.
To a new owner its pretty easy to get paranoid from time to time.
Thanks for the help Dan :rock: Also the chip is a Turbo Tweak but who knows what its for... its a 5.7TT
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Looks like a lucas part number but they don't list a 038...got me
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Unfortunately, a stage engine is built to much larger clearances than a stock block or it should be. As we don't know anything about your engine, it is hard to know....I would have expected 25 psi on a stock built engine on 10-30 but who knows on yours?
If you have time, go double check a couple of injector numbers again to see if 621038 is correct....the 8 looks wrong to me from the lists I can find, but there are a jillion injectors out there. It sounds right, I just cannot find it
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If you have time, go double check a couple of injector numbers again to see if 621038 is correct....the 8 looks wrong to me from the lists I can find, but there are a jillion injectors out there. It sounds right, I just cannot find it
Sorry some built up dirt made the last digit look like a 8 the real number is [ 621030]
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Dan is right...those injectors used to be called 40 lb injectors but these days they are called either 37 lb or 38 lb injectors but they often flow 36 lbs/hr when flow tested on a bench at 43.5 psi of pressure. So, basically they are close to what we used to call blue stripes which was an Bosch injector where these were made by Lucas.
They were one of the early injectors we used to use and they worked okay but they have a pencil stream flow rather than a wide spray pattern so technically they are not as good.
I don't think Eric ever made a chip for this injector but probably used whatever was closest in actual flow curves. Maybe his 42 lb bosch chip? I don't remember and you would have to ask him.
If you set the fuel pressure to give you about 780-790 on a hot engine (not one that has come up to temp idling, but one that has been driven and then brought down to idle for a moment) and then set the wide open throttle fueling to give you about the same O2s at the top of third gear, I suspect it will work, but again, you can ask Eric.
Given you don't know how well they are working, I would probably buy a modern set of injectors and a matching chip as it will cost you about $100 to have those cleaned and tested.
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That's the plan my man ! I'm going to order from Turbo Tweak some 60lb injectors with a matching chip. http://www.turbotweakstore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1016 (http://www.turbotweakstore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1016)
I'm guessing the link I provided is the most popular choice amongst the turbo Buick guys now? I also plan to get a new Fuel pump as well as a brand new hotwire kit .. I want to pull all the old shit out and make sure its done right.. I don't trust the old wiring. Could you link me or send me in the right direction as far as fuel pumps go?
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I would just buy a pump from Racetronix up there along with his hot wire kit and his new intank wiring harness. Most of these cars have deteriorating wiring harnesses in the tank from the pump to the bulkhead connector on the sending unit and they cause problems eventually. Also, the factory pump ground wire is not very well done and the Racetronix intank harness does it right.
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The 60 lb/hr injectors are about as perfect as you can get
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The 60 lb/hr injectors are about as perfect as you can get
Yea time for a upgrade... cant wait to see how she goes after I get that new chip and injector combo !
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May not be a lot of difference, but it will sort out any issues with bad injectors and such. Injector size only assures that you will have enuf fuel to meet the horsepower requirement. Clean ones with a matching chip will improve drivability problems if any exist.
The first thing you have to do is to eliminate all basic problems that may exist. Whether it is fuel delivery related, bad wires, plugs, coil pack, module, cam sensor, crank sensor, turbo that is worn out, oil in the intercooler, vacuum leaks, slipping tranny, etc., everything has to work right.
There is nothing magic about these cars and they are actually a lot simpler than new cars, but, so many people don't understand that everything has to be right before the car will run as it should.
It is seldom an overnight project unless one buys a car from someone that understood the cars and kept everything working right.
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Yes, I've already changed the plugs, cleaned the intercooler and almost all other spring cleaning items, New cat , fuel filter , I've rewired and got better grounds for everything. The only thing I didn't touch was the hotwire and injectors because I believed the owner had them setup.
I might get a new coil pack down the road from Highway stars the updated one just to be sure but I'm on the fence as mine seems to work good. As for the crank sensor and cam sensor I don't know to much about that but the car seems to start and run fine?
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There is no magic in coil packs...they all work the same with regard to results
Information on my site under Basics and How To's regarding many such things
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Just buy a good pump and a PnP hotwire kit from Jack at Racetronix, cheap insurance and peace of mind will follow.
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Just buy a good pump and a PnP hotwire kit from Jack at Racetronix, cheap insurance and peace of mind will follow.
Yes exactly, right now there is a hotwire kit but I'd rather have peace of mind knowing its done properly and is brand new. That's how I feel about the motor as well but haha that's quite a bit of cash just for peace of mind when it is most likely fine how it is :icon_lol:
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Well if you think its fine the way it is then don't go and bi anything and just leave it alone.Steve trying to sort out your car and now you say its fine, what is it then?
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Well if you think its fine the way it is then don't go and bi anything and just leave it alone.Steve trying to sort out your car and now you say its fine, what is it then?
No I didn't mean that but I don't know what else needs replacing besides the injectors I've looked over a lot of things but I'm still a major rookie so its hard for me to just replace things myself.
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you don't have to replace anything, just the injectors and re flash the chip
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Spending money on stuff on these cars that you don't need gets old fast. If you will let guys like Dan and Brad help you, you will learn a lot fast and you won't spend nearly as much money.
I know someone about your age that has had a GN for about 4 years and has spent a ton of money on parts trying to fix a problem. Yet, he will not listen to anyone that has tried to help him because he always "knows" he does not need to do what they are telling him to do because he already bought something for that and he knows it is working. Of course, it is obvious that it is not, but........... ............
Some people take advantage of other's experience and knowledge and others spend more time arguing that they know when they have not learned anything.
You have to decide if you want to be a car guy and learn from the guys that have already been there....or do you want to be that guy that comes on the boards and throws fits because his car does not run like he thinks it should...seems like common sense, but maybe common sense is not what it used to be. :D
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you don't have to replace anything, just the injectors and re flash the chip
That's what I was planning on doing good sir and I understand what you mean Steve and I've taken advice from you guys and used it in multiple times.. to be honest i'm proud to how the car is now from when I first got it. Its running very nice and I thank you guys for that. I've just taken my time and worked at it. Yes I've ranted before but hey I need to let my smoke stacks vent somewhere :icon_eyes:
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The order is in for the 60 pounders and a matching chip. :powersix: :rock:
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its pretty sad, because I never knew about filling up the oil filter before start up. :O
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LOL....I guess it's not too late to learn! Fill the filter as full as you can get it...virtually none will run out when you turn it sideways and spin it on
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Meh.. I always filled the filter 1/2 way and spun the motor over a bit with the ECM power wire disconnected.
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Might explain that little lifter tick eh? I'll try that and see what happens. I enjoy learning.
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it would explain it when you start it after an oil change, but not later on. Using a filter with no, or a poorly working, anti drain back valve will rattle the lifters most starts after the car has sat for a bit. If you pour oil in until it does not want to take anymore, it will have pressure virtually instantly. It's always a good practice to watch the oil pressure needle when you start the car to make sure it shows pressure because if it did not, it meant the pump lost its prime and you are going to be hurting the engine in a few seconds..parti cularly if you blip the throttle
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This is good to know. I remember reading somewhere that sometimes it's best that some people not have a oil pressure gauge because they would worry often when reading it. I dont remember where I read this. The lifter tick goes away after warming up for sure(if thats what it is).
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This is why I installed a pre-lube oil system, since I don't start my car every week or sometimes months. I don't trust the anti drain back valve inside the oil filter. I believe I posted this system before, and then again I'm not sure or remember.
Look into this site: http://www.engineprelube.com/instalubekit.html (http://www.engineprelube.com/instalubekit.html)
Also look into the installation picture section and you will see my TR set up. I did changed the accumulator tank from the intercooler bracket and bolted it to the fan frame.
I installed a timer to capture the highest oil pressure in the accumulator tank since these engine oil pressure is around 25psi when hot. At cold start up the oil pressure is around 55-65psi, then down to 25-27psi when engine is hot.
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I wonder if the GM mechanics doing warranty work back in 86-87-88 pre filled the filter or just spun them on & started the car up? :chin:
Applies to all the quick lube places as well? Somehow I doubt they did!
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No reason not to. I thought everyone poured some oil in the filter before screwing it on...but who knows?
given there is minimal load on the engine at idle...I doubt a lot of serious harm done on an empty filter start. I think there is more likelyhood of damage caused by unplugging the cam sensor or fuel pump than filling the filter and starting the car instantly.
One thing that is dumb is unplugging the orange ecm memory wire and losing the learning that conventional chips have built up over driving.
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Something just came to mind.. could a clogged pickup be the suspect to my valve train noise and if so how hard would it be to clean or replace? I've read that a clogged oil pickup happens after oil changes sometimes and it can cause valve train and lifter noise to the motor.
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? anyone ever experience something along the lines of that ^^
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Your beating your head against the wall on this valve train noise, Just drive the car and in joy it and there's nothing you can do.
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Your beating your head against the wall on this valve train noise, Just drive the car and in joy it and there's nothing you can do.
This..
I m sure there's other issues you can attend to.
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it is common for the timing gear to shed nylon bits as they fail. This usually plugs the pick up screen. Becomes obvious when the oil pressure drops under acceleration at higher rpms.
It has nothing to do with changing the oil. If you drop the pan and find the pick screen plugged, it needs to be cleaned out and if you don't know if the timing chain/gears have been changed, or not, you need to pull the front cover
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I remember a 221 deg cam that I ran for awhile. Sounded like a 327 chevy with a solid lifter cam. But it sounded like a P47 making a low pass at 6000 rpm :D
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Mine had crap in it after 20 years of abuse... rinsed it out and carried on.
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post 63 and 64 say it all.just drive the car and enjoy it.
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The original pickup has a flap door that will let crud into the pump when the screen get compromised. The common aftermarket Melling unit is solid screen.
If you valve train gets nosier at the exact instant of an oil change it's most likely viscosity and/or flow that the engine doesn't like. Not the act of changing.
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When in doubt, drop the oil pan down and look at the oil pickup. The last thing you need is to have your engine rebuilt again, for something so simply.
If you do look into it, like earlbrown said replace the oil pickup with a Melling type.
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Hmm. a cheap inspection camera would be great for checking that, assuming it would fit in the oil drain hole.
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Hmm. a cheap inspection camera would be great for checking that, assuming it would fit in the oil drain hole.
I like the way you think ! And this winter the motor is coming out and getting a full checkup. Plus the engine bay cleaned and painted. I will do all the work then.
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You really need some hearing lessons or reading lessons or something. As my grandfather used to tell me, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."
You have good numbers on your sm, right? If not then it is time for some adjustments.
You have fuel pressure and it rises 1 to 1 with boost, right?
You switched to a proper weight of oil and have decent pressure ?
Buying the next big thing is not only expensive many of these innovations don't work. Use what you have. Get it running right and make ONE change at a time. More just leads you down a path of uncertainty.
Go enjoy your car. Wait til you break it , then you can "fix" it.
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No I understand, The only reason for it coming out is new motor mounts, paint and to freshen up the bay as well as a new rear main seal and new gaskets all around. As well as new control arm bushings. As for the scan master. I've always had high BLM's so I've been told by multiple guys who are very good with these cars to get a new Chip as 60 pound injector combo. That combo is on the way as we speak. I will be reporting back sometime this week about the new chip and injectors.
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So who's going to put that stuff in?
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I'm going to try and do as much as possible. I'll have to see what I can do myself and what I know I cant do.
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All the best and good luck.
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Subscribed
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LOL
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YGspider is a DIYer nothing wrong with that. He also specifically said
"I'm going to try and do as much as possible. I'll have to see what I can do myself and what I know I cant do"
I see a lot of help being offered and thats cool, but if the guy wants to go for it good for him. And thats not an insult on any one and shouldn't be taken as such.
YGspider read and then read some more, there are lots of "how to" threads on just about everything about these cars do some research ask as you go along double check everything and good luck.
David
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So who's going to put that stuff in?
All the best and good luck.
Dan, for the last time: shut the fuck up.
Justin deserves a chance to make this work, and we will continue to support him (even if it makes our heads explode in the process). When I was his age I took on a much bigger challenge and succeeded building my Buick. I made my errors along the way, took support where I could get it, and even contributed to Steve's (and others') premature aging when I thought I knew better.
Justin, carry on.
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No kidding, I would be 52 in November instead of 72 if not for you! :013:
We all started somewhere and we all screwed up tho none of my mistakes are documented. Eventually most of us begin to learn our limitations and seek help when in doubt altho I do tend to grab a bigger hammer in my old age.
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Same to you a-hole Did you take the time to go and look at the car, I would be the first to go over and help him out free of charge , do you think i what to see the kid hurt is car you , so go fuck your self.
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Please don't take my post as a insult to anyone. I know sometimes the way I word things it might sound like I'm saying fuck you or something like that but its not what I mean. I love to get input from everyone that has worked on these cars. I read at least a hour or two of Turbo Buick Tech each day. Dan, Bill ,Steve, Motorhead knowledge is very helpful to other Turbo Buick owners. I know I could just bring it to someone and get the job done but I want the chance to wrench with my dad and have fun in the garage with my car. This week or weekend I'm going to do the injector swap. While on the note of my injector swap is there a bolt or a valve to release the pressure in the rails?
I know some of you don't get along but I think we should all just drop what happened and start being a happy Turbo Buick family again. I know I may have upset a few people and I really didn't mean too. The last thing I want is to bring trouble to myself. I just want a fun car to enjoy and people to enjoy the cars with. That's what this weekend at Autofest was all about, Yes we all had our Buicks but it felt like a big family reunion. Also a lot of the old guys that know all the Buick tech are getting old and its up to guys that really want to learn like Motorhead did to take over when you guys don't want to work on these cars anymore or cant. I mean that with respect I feel I should learn and be able to keep these cars running as well as you guys have learnt to do. I don't want to be the guy that has to bring my car to a specialist.... . I want to be a specialist amongst you. And I still have along way to go!
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Any skilled can be learned with time, desire and money. Take your time and read lots. Most anything you wanta know is documented.
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Any skilled can be learned with time, desire and money. Take your time and read lots. Most anything you wanta know is documented.
Trying to reinvent the wheel as it were is unnecessary. Do some more reading and some doing and get her running wellw. I did rear main seal in the car. Not sure why you would want to pull an engine for anything less than an overhaul but it is your time. I was driving mine at the time and it had to carry me to work back then.
Keep the questions coming plenty of experience on this board to answer them.
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YGSpider if you what when you get the injectors come over to my shop and i'll show you how to do them and show you how you change the chip. :cheers:
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He said he wanted to paint the engine compartment... much easier with the engine out. Has been for me anyway. I am open for new tricks, tho :)
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Steve if he what's to put new injectors in so the car will run better before he parks it for the winter, that's up to him. :cheers:
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I know I could just bring it to someone and get the job done but I want the chance to wrench with my dad and have fun in the garage with my car.
Good. A greater sense of accomplishment will come with this, a shared one.
While on the note of my injector swap is there a bolt or a valve to release the pressure in the rails?
Yes, the front of the rail on the driver's side. It might still be under a cap - you are looking for a schrader valve like that on a tire valve stem; it can be screwed out just the same.
I know some of you don't get along but I think we should all just drop what happened and start being a happy Turbo Buick family again.
Buds we haven't been a "happy family" for years; but, I respect your enthusiasm.
Also a lot of the old guys that know all the Buick tech are getting old and its up to guys that really want to learn like Motorhead did to take over when you guys don't want to work on these cars anymore or cant.
God help us all if it is going to fall back on me to carry the torch.
I mean that with respect I feel I should learn and be able to keep these cars running as well as you guys have learnt to do. I don't want to be the guy that has to bring my car to a specialist.... . I want to be a specialist amongst you. And I still have along way to go!
Stick with it and you will.
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PS. I changed my rear main seal years ago and it still leaks.
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New injectors are installed and the BLMS are 128 across the board. :rock: Didn't get a chance to take a test drive because the rain started coming down but the idle of the car is even smoother then before. Next project 3" terry Huston and 160 thermostat.
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It really does help when the chip matches the injectors.
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It really does help when the chip matches the injectors.
Yes ! it really dose. I took the car for a test tonight when the rain letup and the pavement was dry... What a difference the 02'w where perfect the BLM's are perfect the car hauled ass at 15 psi tomorrow I'm going to keep bringing the boost up In increments until I get to the goal of 23-24 psi..... I have fallen in love with her twice over. Also that tapping noise has seemed to disappear at least after my few blasts I took... starting to wonder if injectors where the cause. Tomorrow I will find out when it idles again but as of tonight that noise is no where to be found.
I cant wait for arm drop now .... last arm drop my car had big tuning problems now I'm ready to come play :}}}}}}}}}}} :cheers:
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You can not run 23-24 psi of boost without race gas or alky injection unless you want to do it once.
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You can not run 23-24 psi of boost without race gas or alky injection unless you want to do it once.
Alky is installed. My chip is also a alky chip
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okay, then you should be okay..just take it in small increments and be sure you are watching for timing retard. If you see any, back off the boost until you figure out why it occurred. As the boost comes up, the damage from detonation exponentially increases
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Only issue with the install is the old Fuel Pressure Regulators crapped out on me as I now see it leaking I replaced the o ring but the leak still prosiest. I'm going to switch over to a Accufab Fuel Pressure Regulators.
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okay, then you should be okay..just take it in small increments and be sure you are watching for timing retard. If you see any, back off the boost until you figure out why it occurred. As the boost comes up, the damage from detonation exponentially increases
Yes I bring my dad with me for each run to monitor my o2's and KR. Powerlogging is great but now I see why I should of got a Scanmaster to start. Oh well next season a Scanmaster is on my Christmas wish list.
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yep....I use the sm mainly as a "Knock Alarm" watching the o2s and timing retard to know when something has changed.
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Yes I bring my dad with me for each run to monitor my o2's and KR. Powerlogging is great but now I see why I should of got a Scanmaster to start. Oh well next season a Scanmaster is on my Christmas wish list.
I've never had a ScanMaster and I have never changed a head gasket. Datalogging is just as effective as long as you are incremental in your increases... building a laptop stand helps too; as does having someone riding along - as you've already discovered.
Glad to hear the car is improving.
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DON'T FORGET TO PRIME THE ALKY SYSTEM.
i made that mistake and my number six rod didn't forgive me for it. :013:
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DON'T FORGET TO PRIME THE ALKY SYSTEM.
i made that mistake and my number six rod didn't forgive me for it. :013:
This might be the best advice you get.
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New injectors are installed and the BLMS are 128 across the board. :rock: Didn't get a chance to take a test drive because the rain started coming down but the idle of the car is even smoother then before. Next project 3" terry Huston and 160 thermostat.
When you ordered your chip from Eric...what did you tell him your max PSI was gonna be. Erics sets his 02`s for what you tell him. With everything being equal...if you told him 23 PSI for example...then you should be able to go WOT with Julios alky kit on the default setting and Erics chip on the default setting...if your fuel system is up to it...and your engine is in good working order. Have you run a compression test on your engine...to check for even cylinder pressures.
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DON'T FORGET TO PRIME THE ALKY SYSTEM.
i made that mistake and my number six rod didn't forgive me for it. :013:
This might be the best advice you get.
Absolutely. Hit my test button in the staging lanes every time before I make a run.
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It really does help when the chip matches the injectors.
Yes ! it really dose. I took the car for a test tonight when the rain letup and the pavement was dry... What a difference the 02'w where perfect the BLM's are perfect the car hauled ass at 15 psi tomorrow I'm going to keep bringing the boost up In increments until I get to the goal of 23-24 psi..... I have fallen in love with her twice over. Also that tapping noise has seemed to disappear at least after my few blasts I took... starting to wonder if injectors where the cause. Tomorrow I will find out when it idles again but as of tonight that noise is no where to be found.
I cant wait for arm drop now .... last arm drop my car had big tuning problems now I'm ready to come play :}}}}}}}}}}} :cheers:
Ready for Armdrop...or a quarter mile blast...is a mistake I see made time and time again.I hear these guys all the time saying that they lay into on the street and the 02 numbers look good. Wrong. These guys aren`t holding the loud pedal to the floor for a full quarter mile...just a few hundred feet...and get lulled into a sense of security. Make a full quarter mile blast at WOT with PL and what you`ll see is the 02`s getting leaner the further you go down the track...and that;s why I said we`d test your car for short runs and then check your PL log. I`d recommend making a WOT blast for a quarter of the track....then half track...and then three quarter. If all looks good...then you could make a full WOT pass. There`s a Mix N Match next Friday at SMP...and I`ll be there to help if you want it. You can then go to Armdrop and let er rip!
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Hey quick question for you guys how do I get the old oil cooler of my car and will the filter bolt up the same way once removed. the reason I ask is because the Fbody rad conversion is going in. Sick of the car running almost to 200.
Tranny cooler is going in as well. :rock:
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Hey quick question for you guys how do I get the old oil cooler of my car and will the filter bolt up the same way once removed. the reason I ask is because the Fbody rad conversion is going in. Sick of the car running almost to 200.
Tranny cooler is going in as well. :rock:
There is a large filter adapter nut in the middle that holds the cooler to the pump. It has a hex head you should be able to see it from underneath.
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It really does help when the chip matches the injectors.
Yes ! it really dose. I took the car for a test tonight when the rain letup and the pavement was dry... What a difference the 02'w where perfect the BLM's are perfect the car hauled ass at 15 psi tomorrow I'm going to keep bringing the boost up In increments until I get to the goal of 23-24 psi..... I have fallen in love with her twice over. Also that tapping noise has seemed to disappear at least after my few blasts I took... starting to wonder if injectors where the cause. Tomorrow I will find out when it idles again but as of tonight that noise is no where to be found.
I cant wait for arm drop now .... last arm drop my car had big tuning problems now I'm ready to come play :}}}}}}}}}}} :cheers:
Ready for Armdrop...or a quarter mile blast...is a mistake I see made time and time again.I hear these guys all the time saying that they lay into on the street and the 02 numbers look good. Wrong. These guys aren`t holding the loud pedal to the floor for a full quarter mile...just a few hundred feet...and get lulled into a sense of security. Make a full quarter mile blast at WOT with PL and what you`ll see is the 02`s getting leaner the further you go down the track...and that;s why I said we`d test your car for short runs and then check your PL log. I`d recommend making a WOT blast for a quarter of the track....then half track...and then three quarter. If all looks good...then you could make a full WOT pass. There`s a Mix N Match next Friday at SMP...and I`ll be there to help if you want it. You can then go to Armdrop and let er rip!
I'll go for sure just pm me some details and i'll meet you there, Cant wait.
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Hey quick question for you guys how do I get the old oil cooler of my car and will the filter bolt up the same way once removed. the reason I ask is because the Fbody rad conversion is going in. Sick of the car running almost to 200.
Tranny cooler is going in as well. :rock:
There is a large filter adapter nut in the middle that holds the cooler to the pump. It has a hex head you should be able to see it from underneath.
Thanks, man you saved me some hassle.